Review -Petzl Sirocco

Review on the right.

Review -Black Diamond Guide Gloves

Review on the right.

Review -Mont Austral Pants

Review on the right.

Review -Hotronics FootWarmer S4 Custom insole kit

Review on the right.

Update Thurs 14 April – Best wishes, expedition concerns and general news.

Message chatted with Dawa before he and his clients headed off to climb Mt Makalu (5th highest mountain). Best of luck to all of them. I wish I could have joined them but sadly not possible. I don’t know much about Makalu (besides what I have notionally Googled), but keen to hear about the route difficulty and conditions.

Expedition concerns:

I am getting worried about my Broad Peak expedition as I have heard very little from Summit Climb on the organisation of this expedition. Dan Mazur tells me that it is being organised by their ‘sister office’. I am not having a lot of confidence with this sister office as the communication is next to non-existent.

Dan is off to Everest and good luck to him and his clients.

At this stage, I’m hanging out to hear something from Summit Climb’s sister office as the expedition is still accepting members until 15 May. This is very late as there will be only 1mth before departure. I require confirmation that the expedition proceeds way before then, or I will be pulling out and going to another mountain or logistics company instead. I still need to get the Pakistan entry visa and I don’t like it when things take this long to organise. I still haven’t heard how many will be in the team…and it is now around 2.5mths until expedition departure.

I’ll try to see this Broad Peak expedition through but if it get's cancelled...I'll be ticked for the short notice.

General news:
I worked out that I am subconsciously been walking on my right foot without rolling onto the big toe, as the frostbite nerve damage is still healing. It felt like a normal walk. I am now consciously rolling onto the toe to make sure I get it well tested before I leave on my expedition. I think a small jog will do it good.

My training is going well…so well that my pants don’t fit anymore – my legs are getting stronger and bigger (thighs) through cycling. This is the mass I wanted to build. I do have to make a confession…after being on a wicked healthy diet for 2mths+ I fell to temptation. Last Friday/Saturday/Sunday I pigged myself on 2 pizzas and a family box of KFC. No salad was to be seen anywhere. I felt “urgh” after that binge.

To make up for that indiscretion I have been starving myself of ‘yummy fat’ as much as possible to burn off the excess fat I had just consumed over that weekend. With 2.5mths until I go I cannot afford to have such a binge -only mini binges ;-) .  I think that my strict diet needs to be tempered with the occasional treats to keep me sane.

Now, to start working on losing tummy fat (the never ending battle)…once it’s gone, ladies, please take a ticket and line up by my front door :-O

That’s all the crazy blurting I can do for tonight. Have fun. Be safe. Climb well.

A man that I admire (that I have never met)

Prominent Australian

Philip Nitschke

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Philip_Nitschke

https://exitinternational.net/

In Australia he has been the voice of euthanasia.  Whether you agree or disagree with euthanasia is not the point of this post.

My point is that this man has the courage to fight against the establishment (Australian Government, the Medical Board of Australia (MBA)).  He has fought for the right for people to access information and fought for people to have a choice in how they wish to terminate their life.  Philip Nitschke has sacrificed a career in medicine to follow his belief on this matter.  A big call indeed.  Nitschke fights for your right to have a peaceful assisted death (your choice).

Nothing is scarier than when a Government starts to filter what information one has access to.  Australia claims to be a free and open democracy, but it is no different to authoritarian regimes that restrict what you hear and see (it's just more covert about it).

The MBA should be ashamed of themselves.  They encourage the suffering of the terminally ill.  Their self-righteous approach is no different than any other union that looks after their core business in health.  God forbid if you hurt their business model of providing a terminally ill person with information and a choice...MBA would be 'losing' a client.  The world turns for the worse when self-righteous people play 'god' and dictate what you can do.

My rant is not just about euthanasia...as it is quite easy to knock-yourself-off (jumping off: a building, off a high bridge, in front of a speeding train etc.), it is about people/institutions that want to control you.  Now, 'we' control you in disguise and market it 'for your own good'.  

I've always seen myself as 'temporary' as we all die (no running from the reaper).  If you are religious then you have very little to worry about (as you will meet your maker in the afterworld -a good thing really) and if you are atheist then you appreciate that it 'just ends'.  When I become extinct like the dinosaurs, I hope that I am not suffering and incapable of self-terminating when it happens, otherwise I'll end up being 'tortured' by the Australian Government/MBA in their self-righteous world.

My views are probably more out-there but the principles are the same...right to information and choice.

How do you think you'll 'go' and what choices do you have for the future?  What are you going to do about it?  Food for thought.

*Let me declare that I am pro euthanasia (pro information and pro choice).  

**I am also a member of Exit International.  I have no administrative linkages.  I support their objective and what they are trying to achieve (pro information and pro choice). 

***Americans need not worry...you have access to guns, thus you have greater choice.

Frostbite and Broad Peak training update 24 March 2016

It's been awhile since my last update...but I haven't been sitting idly.

As you can see from the picture the toe has healed nicely.  I even got to clip the nail last week...a big moment for me.  It still feels like pins-and-needles at the tip of the toe area, but I can live with that.  I suspect that nerve damage may be permanent.

I have been cycling madly over the last couple of weeks and noticed severe pain after 30mins of cycling.  I thought it was caused by the toe but it is actually on a spot lateral to the bump (refer to where my finger is pointing).  This is where my cycling shoe strap tightens onto.  Strangely the pain is not evident on normal walking shoes.  Hoping this heals itself soon.

Right now, my poor fitness level is probably equivalent to what it was when I left Australia to climb Manaslu.  I am surprised to this day how my poor training and fitness actually got me up that mountain.  I don’t want to make that mistake of poor preparation again as I suffered too much.

Even though I will not be climbing this Nepalese spring season, my mind is still on that climbing cycle.  Easter weekend is when I have a big training session to gauge my fitness, but something has been worrying me of late.

What’s been causing me sleepless nights…

I’ve been trying to work out the safest way for me to keep hydrated and fuelled on summit nights.  

I struggled to get down from the summit of Manaslu because of dehydration.  I definitely did not have enough water –I only consumed 2Lt in total for the summit trip!  I would need at least 4-5Lt. This would be OK for mountains around the 8,100m range, but anything higher with a starting C4 of around 8,000m would be a more difficult proposition.

The air up there is dry, so you want to be drinking more.  Your appetite is diminished so forced eating of high calorific food and protein is important.  This means that in order for me to get enough calories, I would require electrolyte mixes and gel shots (gel shots were a god-send).

Fuelling for mountaineering summit night is much like solo MTB racing for 12+hrs, the first 50% is about looking after yourself for the last 50%.  The main difference is that in mountaineering you have to carry your food and water with you (MTB you pit-stop every lap to grab fuel and water).  So, what to do?  How much food to take and water to carry?  This is very difficult to judge correctly and I have not done that well as yet.  It doesn’t help that I lose my appetite whenever I undertake strenuous activity.

Let’s start with the water requirement:

If I need to carry 4-5Lt, then that will be a struggle. Carrying that without freezing is the main challenge.

1x2Lt Thermos = saved for the descent.

2x250mL Nalgene bottles carried in chest pockets (500ml bottles are too large for me to carry on my chest).  For drinking on ascent and refilled for the descent using thermos.

The other 2Lt I carry will need to withstand -30C temps and not freeze.  Even Nalgene bottles wrapped in neoprene bottle holders will start to freeze (it did on me in Aconcagua).  I also want easy access to water so that it encourages me to drink consistently and having to access the thermos in the backpack may not be ideal.

Decisions, decisions: To carry another 2L thermos or carry a 1.5L Camelbak bum bag?  I am leaning towards the bum bag as I can wear it either in or behind the body in the down suit (squished against my backpack or sitting on my tummy) as it would encourage me to sip /drink more consistently as I ascend.  Taking big gulps is not as effective as many smaller sips to quench the thirst.  Conversely, I think a thermos is also simpler and safer as a leak inside the down suit would be catastrophic, not to mention the comfort level of a bum bag inside the down suit.  I’m flip-flopping.

Now for the food:

The requirement is for very high energy stuff here!  Candy bars/power bars are great but have to be kept inside the down gear…biting into a frozen bar is a no no.  Gel shots are the ‘lifesaver’ and I carry as much as I can (minimum 1/hr, ideally 2/hr).  You can stash in most places on the body, or if I am wearing a Camelback under the down suit then I can stash it there as well.  The only food that I can truly stand to eat is most likely gel shots, even chocolate bars put me off.

Significant learning:

My mistake in Manaslu was that I failed to fuel and hydrate properly.  With so little food and water I was destined to hammer myself crazy, and I nearly did not make it.  I cannot repeat that again as my cat-9 lives are seriously running out.  Time to do some experimentation before I head off to Broad Peak in June.

For those that are off to Everest, hope you all make it.  Things always come in ‘threes’…so this 4^th year should be uneventful.  

Frostbite update 13 February 2016

Today was quite a good day!  The dead nail bit has separated and it left a thinner nail underneath (compare to previous post pictures to see the difference -darker bit in the picture).  There is still healthy growth from the nail bed (50% coverage).

The toe is still sensitive strangely near the nail bed.  Naturally sensitive at the tip and the thinner nail area.

I have been cycling for a little over a week now and getting a lot of aerobic fitness back.  Breathing more efficiently.  Legs and butt getting stronger and building density.

I hope to be able to run again by the end of February.

Protecting against sun damage (protecting your lips)

Every mountaineer will be exposed to extremely high sunlight/UV at some stage.  When this happens over multiple weeks on an expedition it results with significant sunburn and very bad lip damage.

I'm going to focus on looking after your lips here.  Bad lips = no kissing...but given the ratio of males to females on an expedition, kissing is probably not a good idea for a heterosexual male :-P

It is difficult to cover your mouth from the sun (and reflected sunlight from glaciers) when you are moving as you need to breath efficiently when climbing a mountain.  When you cover your mouth, the covering will eventually become wet from the breath, and thus hamper breathing.

Some people think that using high UV lip protection/balm is enough (similar to sunscreen for skin), but the reality is that constant exposure goes through that protection like it is not even there.  In a week or so your lips may become ulcerated...very painful and hampers drinking and eating.  You need to protect and repair.

SM33 is good for cleaning the damaged lips but surprisingly does not help with the healing.

My experience with having my lower lip entirely ulcerated caused me great concern on Manaslu.  Then my friend Victor Rimac handed me two silver aluminium satchels which contained a white buttery paste.  He told me that it was 100% cacao and that it would do wonders in repairing my ulcerated lip...in 3 days!  I thought he was talking rubbish as it would have been a magical cure.

I gave it a try by liberally covering my entire lip with the paste.  The paste smelt like chocolate (intoxicating...I want chocolate please) and melted upon contacting my warm lips.  I continued to apply it over 3 days to make sure there was always good coverage.  I was shocked that within 3 days most of the ulcerated lip had healed!  On the 4th day it had completely healed!

Victor was a lifesaver.

I learnt that cacao is very good for looking after your lips and good for repairing them when ulcerated.  The problem now is to find more of that 'magic stuff' as I cannot find that 'medical grade' cacao in Australia.  Since it was 100% cacao, I am going to try some 100% cacao butter to see if it would have the same effect.  I suspect so as it is the same ingredient.  Now...I just have to deliberately cause an ulcer to test it out :-(

Broad Peak 2016 expedition details/progress

New entry on the right.  Just getting ready.  Let's see how I will go ;-)

Frostbite update 2 January 2016

I was wondering why my toe was hurting and swollen...it couldn't have been the trekking I did at Freycinet (Mt Anton)? :-(

I went too hard too soon. It happened when coming down from Mt Anton -I had to roll onto the toe to get out of some sticky situations...I felt the pain and knew I would pay the price afterwards.

Also, from the pics, it looks like the nail is finally falling off (or more likely growing out). A good sign but horrible feeling.

The black tip of the toe (scab) fell off at Freycinet beach after soaking it in the sea. At least that was a good outcome from the hiking. The tip is still a little exposed and pink.

I am hoping it is another 2mths before all is good.

Review -The North Face Inferno -29C Sleeping Bag

Review on the right.

2016 climbing plans

For now, I am unlikely to climb in Nepal for Spring.  If I did get fit in time then I would be inclined to go back to Cho Oyu (in Tibet) to finish it off.  It drives me crazy that a long spout of diarrhea destroyed my Cho Oyu summit bid.

The sad fuel shortage situation in Nepal definitely will make it a no-go region for me.  How can I go climbing there when people have no fuel to survive?  Getting around would be a nightmare, let alone a supported expedition.  My guess is that the situation will not be resolved by April 2016.  It would also be too late for interested climbers to confirm plans with so much uncertainty.

The Tibet side is most likely the best choice, or Pakistan.

I am currently looking to climb in Pakistan in June. 2016.  I haven't decided yet if I will try for GI+GII or do a cheaper Broad Peak.  I am probably leaning towards Broad Peak to slowly get me back into the swing of things.  Then maybe in Nepal Autumn do Cho Oyu (if I did not do it in April) or Shishapangma.

Frostbite update 21 December 2015

Since the last update, recovery of the toe tip has been going very slowly.  The tip suffered the most damage and it was a 'concave scab'.  I know that it has not fully healed underneath as when I started trimming the edges, there were some very fresh pink tissue underneath and also a layer of skin not yet hardened 'settled'...because I trimmed a little too much.  I am impatient.

The nail bed is still looking very good and now I am positive that it will not fall off.  I have no idea how the scab underneath the nail bed will take to disappear.

I have started carefully rolling onto the big toe so that I can get the feeling of walking normally (not the very tip of the toe where the scab is located).  The nerves are still going 'haywire' as that will take the longest to heal.  It is very numb yet sensitive.  Horrible feeling.  My revised guess is that it will take another month for the scab at the tip to fall off but it will take probably 2mths for the stuff under the nail to disappear.  Hoping the nerves heal well.

Frostbite update 9 December 2015

Latest update from the trimming of the dead tissue (scab).  The lower side of the raised scab bled a little when I trimmed a little too much (by 0.5mm).  Not all of the underneath has fully healed.  I think what the scab covered area still requires quite a lot of healing.  I need some patience.

I can see a separation of the nail from the nail bed (fine line appearing)...so it looks like the toenail will fall off.  I just wish it fell off quickly!  I cannot get back into training when this is taking forever to heal.

It looks like I will have to skip the Nepal Spring climbing season.  My guess is that it would be completely healed by end February.  That only leaves 1mth of hard aerobic training to make it for Spring climbing...that is not possible with full-time work, and, the body will not be in top shape after such a long lay-off.

My plans are being messed up.

Frostbite update 26 Nov 2015

Got the good news from my Australian doctor yesterday.  Toe should heal well -only a few mm shorter at the tip will be the worst of it.  This is consistent with the feedback I received from an Italian doctor who gave me the good news 2wks ago.  Still waiting for the nail to fall off...but I think it will not fall off as it is still growing from the nail bed.  We will see who is right.  The nail may 'look different' depending on the extent of damage done to the nail bed.

It can take up to 2mths for the dead tissue to fall off and for the new tissue underneath to grow...I'm hoping it will only be another month but this is an unknown.  Nobody can set a time.  The nerves may recover at the tip but that will take a long time.  Not so good for climbing :-(

The best thing about coming back from an expedition is that you get to go back to work...because you can start using your brain again.  Expeditions can be quite boring.  One needs to really test the ol' noggin...still going strong :-)

Dropping my beautiful LML NV 150 Star 2 scooter

How much bad luck can one have.  If I didn't have bad luck, I would have no luck at all.  After owning my scooter for two full days (since it was registered and road worthy), and only having ridden it for two days, on my third day on a wet and greasy road 1km from work (after having ridden 8km already), I lost the front of the scooter going straight.  I must have hit an arrow line marking as I approached the the traffic lights.

Lucky I had washed off the speed as I did not have a motorcycle jacket, pants or a boot on my right toe (due to frostbite I cannot wear shoe on the right foot).

I landed on my right side and hit my right heel on the ground.  The helmet had a very light touch on the ground on the visor (scratched visor but no damage to helmet).  My goretex jacket and nylon waterproof pants were surprisingly unmarked and the body underneath was not injured.  The 'lucky' part was I did not hurt the frostbitten toe even though I landed on the right side.

Sadly the scooter sustained damage:
1) Handlebar twisted and not aligned to front wheel.  Hope there is no steering column damage.

2) Front fender edge scratched and slightly warped/bent.


3) Aluminium trimming partly torn off but no paint damage.


4) Right throttle grip slightly scratched.  Not worth replacing.
5) The previously lightly scratched rear cowl engine cover has now been properly scratched this time, but not dented.


I've left the scooter at work and will now to get it repaired.
-#1, #2 and #3 will have to be assessed for cost.  #1 hopefully is cheap to repair if only alignment is required (few bolts).  If steering column damaged then that will hurt more financially.  #2 may be cheap if I bend the fender metal and roughly align.  I can live with it not being perfect as it is an 'classic' scoot...gives it character?  #3 should be cheap to repair as the underlying metal base was not bent or damaged, just replace the aluminium strip.
-#5 would cost heaps to properly repair but a cheaper buff and paint would cost much less and fall within my budget.

The scooter is now going to be a dry weather commuter.  It loses it too quickly in the wet.  The last time I rode a motorcycle in 2006-7 I never dropped the bike even in wet weather.  This is the first time I have dropped a bike.  Unlikely to be my last (that is why I am not getting the scooter repaired pristinely).

Now, to buy some motorcycle protective gear in preparation for when I can ride the scooter again.

Frostbite update

Got some good news from a friend who has been liaising with his Dr specialist in frostbite.  Thanks mate for the help.  Some excerpts.

"He said that it's going well.  The toe seems like mine after the freezing of 2006."

"Slowly the dead skin will come off and there will be new skin under.  Likely the same will happen to the nail."

"The doctor says that the frostbite did not affect the bone." 
-that's what I like to hear!

"You must not pull the skin and cause bleeding.  When the skin comes off, cut only the dead skin with a scissors or ask a doctor to do it.
You have to have patience, the death skin will come off alone."  
-My bad, just wanted to have a nicer looking toe ;-)

Some good news for now.  I revisit my local specialist on 25 Nov and hopefully it is just a simple tick and go.

What Grade1/low 2 (maybe) frostbite looks like

For those that are not familiar with frostbite, then this is what it looks like. Incident happened on Manaslu summit night and this is 30 days later. I have another 25 days of waiting before I revisit the vascular specialist. Lucky I also have a friend that is sending these pics to his specialist Dr in Italy for co advice.

-I have effectively regained the full feeling of all my toes on the left foot (no dead tissue).
-My right thumb tip is effectively healed (no dead tissue but sensitive and numb at the tip of the thumb).
-The remaining toes on the right foot are still very numb but I have regained control and there is improvement in feeling/sensations (right toes also have nil dead tissue as shown in the photos).

My only concern remains, and has always been, the big right toe.

Pedicure anybody?

Tent sailing away

For those who saw my tweet of 27 September 2015 at C2 from Manaslu, you may be wondering what this was all about.

Well, I was sleeping at C2 by myself and it was a very blustery night. The gusts were vicious all night long. I think I was the only person in C2 that night.

I was sleeping in the Amical TNF 3P tent (thanks Dominic for letting me/Dawa stay there) and looking after the tent…lucky I was there (read further along). It was a poor sleep due to the wind that would be severely pressing onto the poles. Lucky Amical staff knew how to pitch a tent up properly staking out the guy lines. The guy lines are critical in windy conditions and they were taut lines.

Well, many other sherpas are not as good at pitching tents as Amical…yes Seven Summit Treks (SST) – I’m point you guys out. At approx. 2:00am in the morning the Amical tent ‘felt’ strange and I could see a shadow on the outside of the tent (towards the back door). It felt like the tent was being pulled from the mountain! I could hear some fluttering. I then unzipped the rear tent door and peeked outside, to then have an external tent hit me in the face! I peered left and saw that another 3person Yak Mountain tent (from SST) had been entangled with the Amical tent that I was in. The pole of the other tent had pierced the Amical fly at the top and the guy lines were tangled, which stopped the SST tent from being blown away.

I immediately grabbed the still-erected/’pitched’ tent that was acting like a huge sail on top of the Amical tent. I waited for the gusts to settle down (a lull) and quickly threw on my boots and down jacket…I was sleeping in my Gore-Tex bib pants so it was pretty quick to get out. It was still windy and I separated the SST tent from the Amical tent…but I could not untangle the guy lines. I used my ice axe and staked the SST tent down in the heavy wind conditions. This was the best I could do in the conditions. There was a lot of profanity as all this was being done.

When morning came, I heard a Sherpa coming towards the Amical tent. He pointed out the SST tent. Apparently the SST tent had broken free of the ice axe and was pulling on the Amical tent. The winds had died down, but still present. I then had to go back out and separate the SST inner with its flysheet, unpitch/dismantle the SST tent by removing its poles and then lay everything flat and stake them to stop them from flying away. The SST flysheet had its guy lines still entangled but I would leave that for the SST team to deal with when they arrived into C2 later that day.

There was no damage to the SST tent but the Amical tent had been pierced. I used some Leukotape to try to patch the Amical piercing but it will not hold for long.

Summation:
1) Sherpas need to learn to pitch tents better. Guy lines are critical to tent stabilisation in windy conditions and they need to be taut (static strength). The more you stake out a tent the stronger it will be.
2) I had to save the SST tent as they had clients coming up that day. If I did not, they would have been severely impacted with not enough tents at that time for the arriving team. You owe me one SST!
3) Amical was lucky I was sleeping in their tent…as the SST tent that was acting as a big sail would have pulled both tents off the mountain during that gusty night. We are even as you let me use your tent ;-)

Review -Goal Zero Sherpa 100 and Nomad 20 solar panel

Review on the right.

Philosophical view on life

My vascular specialist was asking me why I climb mountains (high stuff) and I said to him that to me, 'life', was not about 'living long', but living well.

I said that many people lived to say 80yrs but they have barely travelled or done much with their lives. What I have done in just 8yrs (travels and adventures) has been more than your average person...I am privileged to be in the situation I am. I am happy to die for a better quality of life (but not happy to lose parts of my body as that reduces quality -'all or nothing' mentality).

I do not compare myself to others in terms of 'quality' as this is not a competition. Only you can judge your own quality and completeness on your death-bed. But opportunities are limited. Imagine when you are 'older' and when you review your life and say...I still have many things to do, or, I forgot to do that. What if you were no longer capable of physically doing it? How would you feel about losing that opportunity? Any regrets?

Fact: We are all going to grow old and die. What will be your defining moment? Is it children? Is is adventure? Is it work? Whatever it is, make sure you don't lose your opportunity...enjoy a good quality life, don't just go through the daily grind and then find out that life has passed you by.

Quantity means nothing. Think about quality. If you get both together, even better.

If I die on a mountain, then don't be upset (maybe just a little). Know that I would be going out chasing a goal (I don't actually enjoy high altitude mountaineering that much...too much hard work)...goals aren't easy, but they are there for a reason...they are suppose to be challenging.

My vascular specialist knows his stuff, but also good for a philosophical chat.

Vascular specialist update on frostbite.

Saw vascular specialist today and below is what he says about the right toe (all other toes/fingers are of no concern and will heal properly back to normal):

1) Need approx 6wks to see what damaged areas have fallen off.

2) Expects the dome/cap (tip of toe encircled by purple/black) to fall off as the tip has dead tissue. Pink is good, black bad, purple not so good.
3) Nail may fall off but if nail bed is undamaged, everything grows back. Growth may be a little wonky if nail bed is unevenly damaged.
4) Only after 2 will he know if there is bone damage. Bone damage will most likely mean half of toe is removed surgically.
5) Best case scenario is that 2 occurs and no bone damage. This means tissue will regrow underneath. Toe may be a few mm shorter. Tip of toe will be scar tissue and no nerves (no feeling).
6) Taking aspirin to improve blood flow in affected area.

Basically time will tell (in 6wks or so). The 'good' outcome isn't that good. The potential bad outcome is very bad. Not happy one bit. I'm going to be a freak.

If someone ever asks you if you should have more warmth on your feet or fingers for high altitude mountaineering, then ignore their response and go with 'yes' everytime. Sherpas and guides do not know...only you know your resilience to the cold. Don't listen to so-called experts...you are more educated and should listen to you own gut feeling...if not, then listen to me!

Less than genuine advertising.

I have been looking at a range of expedition websites and heli charter services in Nepal and it is blatantly clear that many are next to useless.  Many advertise that they will be having expeditions but they never do.  It is just a waste of time.

Similarly many heli charter services are effectively resellers or separate legal entities for the sake of taxation.  I have found that only a handful are genuine and respond to your queries (genuine such as Fishtail Air and Mountain Helicopters Nepal to name a couple).

Maybe it is a cultural thing but advertising services that one does not follow-through just wastes people's time.  It also damages the reputation of those companies.

If you look at all the wide range of expeditions that many companies claim to offer, they probably only offer 1/10 of what is advertised in any given year.  Expeditions are also highly dependent upon cross company efforts and thus the success is not based on a single company, but how broader team work is organised to reduce freeloading.  This is particularly true when trying to organise fixed lines.  I noticed this at Cho Oyu where large expedition groups would try to maximise their freeloading.  When you see these meetings where they are looking at effort and equipment contributions to set fixed lines, it is frustrating because of the B.S. These delays are actually hampering the very same clients that pay them in the first place.

For this reason, I can definitely see the appeal of the movement to self-supported expeditions, where those that are highly skilled can just do it by themselves.  Kudos to them.  I personally would like to move towards that space where there is a reduction of reliance on fixed lines, but I would need to get better first.

Who do you trust in the mountaineering business world?

Of recent there has been a lot of negative news regarding relationships and trust between guides, sherpas and clients (over the last 3yrs that I have heard of).

For example:

i) The death threats of 2013 between sherpas and western climbers (http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2013/13/130502-mount-everest-fight-simone-moro-interview-sherpas/); 

ii) I hear of a US guide ripping US clients off -Jeff Kron on Jon Kedrowski on Tashi Lakpa Sherpa’s post –Tashi of Seven Summit Treks 

(https://www.facebook.com/tashilakpa.sherpa/posts/906701006084232?comment_id=928505160570483&notif_t=mentions_comment);

iii) And the loss of the Greek Everest expedition payments with a registered Nepalese company (http://news.yahoo.com/robbery-saved-9-greek-climbers-nepal-quake-191946189.html).

Note: I do not have enough information to make a judgement of the incidents (I was not there myself in the examples above), I am looking at it from a broader perspective.

My real question is how does one know who to trust? 

a) The first example i shows the failure in relationship that at one time the climbers and sherpa were close (as they climbed together), but in a subsequent year, those same Sherpas are trying to kill them.

b) There is the inherent notion that when you work with a western guide or western company that you are ‘safer’.  Given the experience of the person in point ii, this is not necessarily true.  I hope that the client receives compensation if what has been reported is true. 

c) Similarly in point iii, a registered Nepalese company (or its staff) can simply result with theft and your life savings disappear.  Your dreams are thus over!  I find it funny that the news articles say that the guide that ripped them off effectively saved them from the avalanche that occurred on Everest Base Camp 2015…this is rubbish.  Theft is theft.  

A new client has to really look at the fact that they are giving money to a stranger.  Thus, one has to do their homework.  This means trying to find out how long that company has been active, the relationship one has, what recourse for remediation (do you know where his family comes from, can you find them if something goes wrong).  Nepal and the US are large populous countries where people can easily disappear with your money.  At least if you deal with a western company, given the western country’s legal system and infrastructure, one can more easily take legal action for compensation claims…you would have no hope in a 3rd world country such as Nepal.

For a new comer into mountaineering, you have some decisions to make.  Do you put your faith completely with an unknown company?  Do you try to do your own thing (fully independent) or a hybrid approach?

My recommendation is to learn by doing your first expedition on the cheap and rely on an established company (make sure to have travel insurance).  From here, you should have quickly learned about logistics management and determined what you need or not.  This then allows you to generally hit up a hybrid expedition approach.  It is rare to do it fully independently as the logistics of transport and food is difficult to organise overseas in less developed countries.  During your travels you meet up with other Sherpas and expedition companies and you get a feel of who are good and who are not, who are trustworthy (only a perception) and then put in security mechanisms to protect yourself and your money (expedition investment).

Learn from the experiences of others but also recognise that you cannot expect everything (unless you pay through the nose).  Your expectations must be realistic.  As soon as something doesn’t sound right, then raise it immediately.  Bad experiences should be shared to warn others of unscrupulous companies/individuals.

My experience has not always been positive.  Many promises have been made and broken.  I have seen many guides fail drastically in decision making which has cost me a chance to summit.  I have learnt to not fully trust anybody but myself and my own judgements.  I take a hybrid approach to my expeditions and if it fails, then I am the only one to blame.  If you don’t think you have the experience to make that call for yourself, then make sure you do your homework in finding a good full-service expedition company.  Do not listen to the marketing ‘fluff’…you want to deal with people that can be frank and honest with you.  When the s**t hits the fan, you need to be able to talk honestly without thinking you are about to hurt somebody’s feelings.  Your life may depend on it.

Whatever you do, remember that your hard earned cash is about to be transferred to a stranger…make sure you have recourse and protection.

My answer is…trust nobody!

Expedition toilet etiquette

I never seriously thought I would ever need to complain about this...but how I can be proven wrong.  You would think that people know how to use a toilet, but you would be wrong.  Stupid people do exist.  So let me educate those that just do not have a clue on how to use an asian toilet (or its equivalent makeshift expedition rock platform toilets).

Here is a picture of a typical asian toilet.

Note how it has placement for your feet on either side of the bowl.  This is where you put your feet.

Note the hole that is closer to one end of the bowl.  This is the bottom end...you face away from the bottom end.

Pretty simple so far.  Now, when you go on an expedition, the hardworking sherpas usually set up a toilet using large rocks to create something identical (with a tent-like enclosure for privacy).  This setup has parallel foot placements.  This is where you put your feet.  You either have a drum barrel in substitution of a bowl or your waste goes straight into the ground (depends on your expedition company).

Now, that isn't difficult at all to comprehend...but there is generally one idiot that does not use it properly and thus causes a real hygiene issue.  There is generally an idiot that squats with both feet on one side of the foot placement, and thus when they do their business, they end up leaving some waste on the other foot placement!  This is very inconsiderate and pisses everyone off.  The poor sherpa/staff then have to clean it up.

If you are one such person that has no common sense, and you have read this blog, then please be considerate to your sherpas and fellow climbers.

In my cancelled Everest+Lhotse expedition, some idiot did this and the poor sherpas had to clean it up 3 times from recollection.  It came down to 'covert' monitoring by sherpas after use to try to catch the culprit.  Actions like this causes serious disease and sickness and requires immediate attention.

Don't be that person!

Review -Forty Below K2 Superlight Overboots

Review on the right.

Review -Fisher Space Pen (AG7) and Nu Stone paper

Review on the right.

Review -Sea to Summit - Clear Stopper Dry Bag 13L and 20L

Review on the right.

I stand by the reviews I do on products

I reviewed the TNF Himalayan Down Parka and Pant not too long ago.  Sadly I lost them near C1 at Everest due to not being able to recover the gear.  I thus purchased the replacements.  I preferred the Windstopper parka version over the newer Pertex version.

The jacket is slightly different to the previous lost red parka in that the inside lining is not TNF logoed.  The size Small feels a tad larger...but this is most likely psychological.  The black colour was not my first choice but it was the cheapest option.  Red goes faster :-).  Does this black coloured one mean I go slower?...but black is 'trimming'.

For the pant comparison there is no real difference that I could find besides the red coloured zipper.  I thought that the bib felt a little tighter but that could be me putting on weight...that's why a trimming black parka may do the trick ;-)

Mistakes I made on the Everest + Lhotse cancelled expedition

Oh' the shame of it!  I finally admit to making mistakes.  Hard to believe :-).

Well, I might as well get straight into it...the WORST mistake I made was to put my trust in someone else.  My climbing principle has always been to trust one's own judgement and capabilities, because you can never put your faith in another climber.  If you cannot be self-sufficient, then what do you do when a disaster strikes and the support that you relied upon disappears?

Instances of my bad judgement that should not have been made are listed below:

Case 1: At the commencement of the avalanche that hit Everest Base Camp (EBC) (refer to my diary log on sequence of events), I ran from my stable expedition tent to the larger dining tent (25-30m from my tent).  I did this because I heard somebody shout 'run' when I saw the avalanche approach me.  Stupid, stupid, stupid.  Fear got the better of me and I should have remained focussed and ran towards the biggest boulder that I could find, or anchor myself to something solid and hope that I did not get (i) blown away, (ii) buried or (iii) shredded by ice and rock.

My best option, given the unknown composition of the avalanche that hit us, was to actually run TOWARDS the avalanche direction as within around 10m or so there were a few large boulders/rocks that could have provided shelter from i and iii.

Running to the dining tent was the dumbest thing I could have done as the dining tent would have acted like a large sail for the avalanche to catch.  Lucky we were not hit by the 'meaty' bit of the avalanche.

Case 2: Not carrying my prusiks and roller pulleys for self/pulley rescue.  You may not think there would be a need for it going through the Khumbu Icefall, as it is all fixed lines, but should something go wrong, then you would end up requiring the assistance of others.

For example, I was only one day out from going through the icefall when the avalanche hit.  Dawa had just returned from C1 that morning.  Fixed lines and ladders would have been damaged if I was in the icefall during the earthquake.  With prusiks and pulleys one can have a chance to use the damaged fixed lines (cut and set new anchors) to possibly climb back down/up...compared with less/minimal/no chance without the basic lightweight rescue gear.

I've learnt my lesson and will carry it myself next time.

Case 3: This was not a situation relating to danger, but relating to my judgement when I did not trust my own feelings.  There were two trail deviations where I followed my guide off-the-beaten-track.

1. One scenario was during an acclimitisation hike where we got into an area that was not ideal- bad-angled weak soft snow, ill prepared footwear for the area (got wet) and not a clear path direction.  
2. The second scenario was on our return from EBC to Lukla...we deviated from the normal trekking trail (shortcut...which it wasn't) and had to go across the middle of a relatively fresh big landslide area in a side forrest.  Not a great choice given the instability of the soil in the landslide (like walking in powder snow with little base underneath and sliding downhill on each step) and the risk of more stuff coming down.  Staying on the normal trail would have been safer.  

In both cases I knew something felt 'wrong' but I went with it anyway.  Maybe I would have traversed through those areas again if I had to repeat the decision (redoing the risk assessment), but I 'let' someone else make that decision instead of me.

Learn from my mistakes.  Think before you act and trust your own feelings.

Mountain electronic devices and keeping them powered up

One of the first things you notice as you get further away from civilisation (Kathmandu) is that the cost of charging devices becomes more expensive.  In Lukla recharging electronic devices is generally free but as soon as you hit Phakding, you pay around USD$3/hr.  Past that it goes to USD$5/hr.  Once at BC there should be a generator to charge your devices provided by your logistics company (covered within your costs), which usually run from late afternoon onwards.  Not the most environmentally friendly approach as it basically consumes fuel to operate.  This is why I look at a better alternative.

The devices I took with me (and what I should have left behind in Kathmandu)
This then raises the question of what is the best way to recharge your devices.  For my Everest+Lhotse (EL) expedition I took:
1) MacBook Air (MBA)*;
2) Smartphone (Sony Xperia Z Ultra);
3) SLR camera (Sony A7R+5 batteries);
4) Spare Nikon waterproof compact camera (AW100 +4 batteries);
5) Satellite phone (Isatphone);
6) Rechargeable headlamp (Black Diamond ReVolt); and
7) Rechargeable HAM radio
(from what I can remember).

That is a lot of stuff to take to Base Camp (BC)!

*In hindsight, I should have not taken the MBA to BC as it is not good to take it to that altitude.  The lower pressure air at that altitude significantly impacts a laptop's ability to cool, and it will heat up heaps...so make sure it does not get too warm/hot!  Take care with condensation as well.  If you do want to take a laptop then buy something cheap that you do not mind destroying.  I will not take my MBA on trails again.

Prioritise order of charging devices
Now, one has to consider how to recharge if you do not want to be paying by the hour all the way to BC.  Naturally the priority for charging is to charge the safety equipment and frequently used items that saves on batteries first (5, 7 and 6), followed by the things of less priority (3, 2 then 1).  Spare camera was not used and thus did not need to be charged (topped up if required).

How much daylight and maximising it
There is around 7-8hrs of good daylight for charging in Spring but if you are on the Everest trek route, then you need to be able to strap a panel of some sort onto your bag to take advantage of the available light.  I was using the Powertraveller Powermonkey Extreme 12V for this purpose.

When you stop trekking and arrive at a guest/tea house, or when in BC, this is when you can take out the big guns such as a foldable/rollable panel.  Hook it either to a battery storage or directly into the device.  I was using an Tactical 24W flexible panel with a car 12V socket, which I had purchased at a sale at 50% off...I should have bought two of them!  You ideally want to have a regulated power source charging your devices as you can damage your device by directly connecting to an unregulated solar panel.  Use at your own risk.

What I learnt (or knew beforehand)
Different devices require different power inputs.  One thing I was aware of, was that this setup alone would not be able to charge the MBA.  That MBA (and most Apple laptops) will require substantially more power, and consistent power.  I charged my MBA via the generator source at BC and used it infrequently along the trail to BC.

You need to look at what power your devices requires before you head out, and make sure you have all the right connectors.  Try to limit the number of different connectors and try to label them if you can.  It makes searching for the right combination a much easier exercise instead of rummaging through it.  Keep cables tidy and separate (tie them individually up with rubberbands).

All my devices were able to be charged perfectly with this setup.  That said, I did encounter a failure with the Powermonkey Extreme.  For some unknown reason the cable from the solar panel to the battery/controller failed to make contact properly.  I was not sure whether it was a battery controller issue, whether it was the non-USB small connector jack plug, or whether it was the battery/controller input jack socket that failed...I suspect that it was the input jack socket of the battery/controller.

This was a pain in the butt.  Lucky for my Tactical that gave me alternate power (and the BC generator).

The good thing is that the Australian Powertraveller distributor (Sea to Summit) covered it with a new replacement under warranty.  That is the type of service I would have expected from a good company like Sea to Summit.  That said, I may have been unlucky (as you know I am VERY UNLUCKY) with getting the problem in the first place, but it does shake my confidence in the product.  The device saw hardly any use at all before failure.  Powertraveller would sell thousands of these devices internationally so...pure bad luck on my part?  My confidence has been shaken and thus I will sell my replacement Powermonkey Extreme and I will get a chance to try something else :-).  A gadget freak like me always likes to try new things.

Having a battery pack makes like easier when you head to higher amps.  You can still charge your safety devices.  I also take spare camera batteries to higher camps, but to know that I have a lightweight battery storage at C1 or C2 is comforting (in a C3-C4 8,000m type mountain).

Where to next?
1) I will be keeping my Tactical panel as it is a gun when you need power!  Even when there is some cloud in the sky it is still able to capture the sun's energy.

2) I have been looking at the Voltaic Systems and Goal Zero options.  I am inclined to 'future-proof' by buying a more powerful system.  I can ensure that if I did take a cheap laptop to my next BC then I can still charge it without any issue, also accommodating any future power hungry devices.

i) I am leaning towards the more expensive Goal Zero (GZ) Sherpa 100 kit with inverter as it has stronger connectors and it can daisy-chain easily with the Tactical panel.  All I do is buy the GZ 8mm to 12V plug and I connect the Tactical to the GZ Nomad 20 panel, which in turn connects with the Sherpa 100.  This gives me solar panel power of 45W when I am stationary, and 20W when I attach it to a backpack when moving.  I can even fold the Nomad 20 down in size by one segment (lose 30% generation capacity or so) if it is too awkward to attach to different sized packs.

ii) Also, the choice of a GZ inverter provides flexibility with accommodating Apple laptops...as Apple has a habit of changing their proprietary connectors.  In the future, I don't need to go to eBay and buy another AUD$40 12V to MagSafe 2 adapter, or whatever new connector is released, when I can just use the power plug.  Only disadvantage with an inverter is that they are around 20% inefficient...but I can overcome this my the high power solar panel setup.  This would only apply to items being used on the laptop (MBA) whereas everything else would obtain efficient DC power from the other Sherpa 100 output ports.

If (when :)) I do buy it, I'll do a thorough review from the trail.  Give it a good testing.

The things that worry me on the way to the mountain, and on the mountain.

Concern 1

The dreaded diarrhoea!  This is my number one concern.  Having been unlucky enough to be caught out with a severe instance (of 30 days straight –suspect Giardia) I am worried about getting a bug or repeated bugs.  The ‘big D’ can take all your energy away and cause cramping and water loss.  It effectively cripples your expedition.  This time I have come better prepared.  After talking to my Dr we agreed on a standard approach to treatment of diarrhoea.  It is important to talk to your doctor about your particular case and what medication will work for you.  I am not providing any medical advice whatsoever, I am only going with my own approach (Norfloxacin, Tinidazole and Azithromycin).  I will use Imodium if all else fails.  If I cannot stop the diarrhoea at its cause, then I will have to try to slow the digestive system down until I can get the climbing out of the way.  I have heard of some mountaineers being on Imodium for many days straight...urgh.  Doesn’t sound too comfortable at all.  But you need to do what you need to do.

Concern 2

Exhaustion –This comes on very fast.  I was surprised that one minute you can be pacing nicely and then all of a sudden your body just stops.  ‘Hitting the wall’ is a nightmare as you stand there not having any energy left to even walk.  This happened to me as a result of the above, and it took 20mins just to power down some sugars to get the energy to walk 20m to my tent.  The problem was exacerbated by not eating more frequently throughout the day.  I should be snacking at least every hour (carbs or sugary drink).  So much energy is expended at altitude that consumption needs to be increased significantly.

Concern 3

Diet at high camps is all about being able to stomach whatever you have.  I shall be food shopping with my Sherpa for high camp food.  I remember being provided with freeze dried healthy food at higher camps, but neither my tent buddy nor myself could stomach it.  The healthy ‘gruel’ was very bland and tasted like cardboard.  My approach is to decide on what I can stomach and then buy TASTY food before leaving Kathmandu, not necessarily health food.  At high altitude you tend to lose some of your ‘taste buds’ and many foods taste bland.  If you cannot enjoy your food then you will not eat it, thus no energy to generate heat or move.  Taste is everything!  For the healthy freaks out there...get over it.  Throw down some food that has high sugar, high fat, high salt etc.  Yum yum.  Time to buy a tiny bottle of soy sauce to give taste to the infinite amount of eggs that will be eaten on the mountain (yes, you get sick of eggs).  If all else fails then befriend an Italian...they always carry nice food.

Concern 4

Frostbite - Not much you can do here except to eat lots, drink lots, keep all skin covered and layer for warmth.  Toes are a big concern as you need your boots snug enough that your feet do not slip/move yet not so tight that circulation is restricted.  Your boots are always in contact with the snow so warmth is critical.  There is no coming back once your toes (and to a lesser extent your fingers) go very cold...it is not easy to remove your footwear to deal with issues.  To try to mitigate toe frostbite I am using a vapour barrier layer (VBL) to keep sweat from soaking my socks and adding an extra insulation layer over my mountaineering boots –adding a 40Below neoprene overboot over my La Sportiva Olympus Mons boots.  This hopefully will form a warmer combination without relying on electronic food heater insoles (more batteries and chance of failure) or chemical insoles (hit or miss success rate given low O2 in boot).  I’ll let you know how it goes.

There are always things that people can be concerned about, whether it be in mountaineering, personal adventures or life in general.  The best tactic to dealing with them is to be sensible and think it out logically, plan for the event/mitigation and then execute when required.  Things may or may not work out for you, but you can only do so much.  Don’t let fear hold you back - keep moving forwards :-)

Keeping entertained on the mountain and how to keep powered up?

OK, I am a popish music fan, and proud of it!  Robert Palmer, Shania Twain, Taylor Swift, Pink, Katy Perry, The Corrs and most music from the 80s’ and 90s’.  This will really test the boundaries of good taste :-) ...but seriously, I have great taste in music, even if I do say so myself :-D.  No ‘fan boy’ mentality here, just like popish music.  This will help with dealing with boredom.

I have to say that mountaineering is a surprisingly boring affair.  There is a lot of time to fill-in and the scenery doesn't change too much or that quickly.  You cannot take too many electronic devices because you are always hampered by the lack of power supply.  Solar power panel sheets and batteries are your best friend.  You have to always make sure your critical devices are charged/powered (ie. Sat phone, HAM radio, Head torch/light, Camera) and then what you have left will be for entertainment (mobile phone, GPS watch).  We live in a modern age and the reality is that we all need to move with the times.  It is tough enough being away from the internet for even a day!...but luckily there will be internet at Everest Base Camp (BC).  I am saved :-).

I use a Power Traveller Power Monkey Extreme solar charger and a large 24W solar panel flexible sheet to hopefully charge up my devices when I am out there.  When you are dealing with solar charging it is always good to have something between the device and the panel as voltage fluctuations can cause damage to the device.  The Power Monkey has a battery that provides separation voltage protection to my devices (I never plug my devices directly into a solar panel).

All this electronics adds unnecessary weight but life is no fun without it.  Yes, you can be a ‘hermit’ and do nothing for 2mths on the trail to find your ‘inner peace’, but I am not that kind of person.  I need to be entertained.  It may be good to buy a book (no power required), maybe a lightweight text book, to learn something new during these 2mths...what should I learn?  I am already a certified massage therapist, maybe I should finish off the remediation massage component, but too many heavy books to carry :-( .  A first world problem indeed.

Did you know that high altitude damages brain cells!

My buddy Jason told me that this was a reality but I had always wanted to wait for the evidence...now it is here (or at least since I’ve read it).  Jason’s view was that mountaineering people he had met were a ‘little slow’ as they got older, but my view was that was because they were old!

Brain damage is a reality of high altitude mountaineering (just Google ‘Altitude kills brain’ and check out the results).  To be honest, this isn’t rocket science.  When you hammer for brain with starvation of O2 that there would be ramifications.  At least the evidence is here and it would be good if the sample size of the studies could be increased (pre-post expedition).

My experience in Aconcagua (my first real mountain) when I experimented with Diamox was evidence that altitude sickness is real.  At Camp 3, I decided to stop taking Diamox to see how my body would react...huge mistake!  I suffered the craziest headache known to man.  My head was going to explode.  Lucky we were commencing our decent already.  I did suffer some memory recollection issues for a few weeks/a month afterwards.  What did I learn?

i)         i) That I was never ever going to rely on Diamox again!  There is too much reliance on a drug and if something should go wrong then you are up the creek without a paddle.

ii)        ii) Acclimatise well and slowly.

What is still unknown is the rate of ascent to acclimatise well.  Some are conservative (1000m/day) others less conservative, but the studies tentatively show that it is not just about the acclimatisation, but also the altitude that you subject yourself to.

The question is then why would I put myself through this still knowing the risks?  Well, because I don’t believe that life is about the quantity, but the quality.  I never thought that I would live beyond 40 years, as my teenage dreams was to live life continually without regret.  I sadly have not done this and became a book-worm that was only focussed on his career, with many, many regrets along the way.  It took a few mid life crisis to open my eyes as to all the wonderful places and people in the world, and how my life could be better by meeting all the characters that form ‘the life of Gil’. 

Life is only exciting if you take risks.  On your death bed the last thing you would wish is that you worked harder, or, that you should have more assets accumulated!  It will be about all the things that meant something, and how you have progressed on your bucket list.  I heard this quote recently -There are two times in life, Now and Too Late.  How will you choose to live your life?

Also, I can afford to lose some brain cells....because I am already too smart...smart alec that is :-P .

Climb safe.

What has my fitness program been focussed on, and why?

I have always admired those individuals that can push themselves crazily in whatever physical endeavours they seek.  Some of the fittest people are top level triathletes...they are crazy fit.  They don't carry much mass but have exceptional aerobic capacity and are very well-rounded in a range of physical disciplines at a top level, not just good at a single sport.  Not only do they have efficient aerobic capability but they can handle pain and have good power/weight ratio.  These attributes are important for mountaineering.  This is why I have focussed my training on increasing my aerobic capacity and power/weight. 

I know that I need to put on mass as I always lose a lot of muscle on the mountain.  Surprisingly I have learnt that any fat that I cart up the mountain I tend to bring back down L.  I have tried to train my body to be more efficient in trying to burn fat by training in the correct HR zones.  Probably close to 7yrs ago my max HR was hitting a tad over 200bpm but now it is at 180bpm.  This has probably been a result of less intensive exercise over the years...I cannot accept that it is because I am getting older...I’ll try to hold onto my youth for as long as I can.

I have mixed my training to include things that I actually enjoy doing.  If you don't enjoy going to the gym for instance then try to substitute it with similar activities outside of the gym.  For example, I hate cycling in the gym using the stationary bikes, but I do enjoy pushing myself on a ride whether it be on the MTB or Roadie through the hills and streets around my city.  It gets me out-and-about and really allows me to focus on deep and faster breathing, great for targeting aerobic capacity and breathing rhythm on the mountain.  The problem with cycling is that it does not mimic the mountaineering requirements (upper body work) and the load carrying component.

I know that I have to do some weights (inevitable reality) to work on the upper body for dealing with the rope work on the mountains.  Shoulders get a heavy repeated workout and I hate it so much!  It is only good when you finish the work when you really earn the pain.

It is also important to do some boot packing with a medium load to mimic the loads that you carry as you move up the various higher camps.  I try to limit this to 20kgs as my target body weight is only around 68-70kg (with no food in the stomach).  I always have to be careful as it can hurt my knees.

I do not swim...simply because I am terrible at it.  Hard to believe that an Australian cannot swim well.  I can probably only swim 200m (backstroke) before I am a gone.  I just don't float very well.  I have never had a need to swim greater than 200m so I have never pushed it beyond that –I had to do that to get my scuba certification.  That said, I am not going to be swimming up a mountain, although it would provide a good shoulder workout.

Running... I tend to do this at the end of my training program.  I suffer from shin splints and after a hard run I cannot do much else (need a decent recovery).  Running is a great exercise but I find that any sustained running program causes me to lose a lot of weight, something that I struggle to put on in the first place.  I find that I become skinnier and that is why I don't do it very often.  I prefer cycling because I find that my butt/legs get bigger and denser, ideal for boot packing, and I can build excess muscle that I won't hopefully lose too quickly. 

The important thing for me is to focus on aerobic capacity, legs and upper body.  I try to do what I enjoy and limit the things that I am hopeless at...but still have to do the mandatory goal oriented things.  The more you enjoy your training the more you will stick to it.  When people generally try to get fit or go on a diet, the question they have to ask themselves is...can I keep it up and make it part of my everyday life?  Ignore the quick gain marketing junk and diets, just find something that you can truly commit to, and go enjoy yourself :-) .

I still feel underdone, but that is always the case.  I am always a glass half empty type of person.  There are some things that I cannot influence (how I physiologically adapt to extreme altitude) but I’ll give myself the best chance through training.