Everest and Lhotse 2015 (Unsuccessful)

Everest Expedition log

This is an ongoing log of my trip, updated whenever I have a chance.  I will post all the pictures into this log once the whole expedition has been completed.  I prefer to do that after I return home where I can review how I went and also to trigger the memories.

My expedition pics are posted on my public FB page. Too many pics to post on my blog.  https://www.facebook.com/gilianleemountaineering.  Videos come later (trickle through onto public FB site).

Monday 4 May 2015

Tourist day.  Ran into Richard Cartier who returned from Lukla this morning.  He waited at BC until it was certain that nobody was going up anymore.  Good to see he is well.  Richard had left some gear in KTM at a hotel that is no longer standing (refer to pictures when they are posted).  Not only did he lose his high camp gear at C2, but gear at KTM as well...bad luck...but he is a Dr, so no need to feel too sorry for him ;-)

Dawa and I went to the Zoo and also Buddhanilkhantha.  That filled an uneventful day.  Getting ready to have dinner and then catch plane out of here.

Effectively we are now finished...and looking forward to Manaslu in September.

Sunday 3 May 2015

Tourist day.  We went and visited the Boudhanath Stupa (biggest stupa) and Passupatinath (Hindu temple).  Passspatinath was slightly damaged by the earthquake.  It was a hot day so there was a lot of lazing around.

At night Dawa and I headed back tot he pizza joint.  Huge crazy waiting lines but we got through very quickly ;-)...it's who you know.

I saw Gabriel from BC and also recognised the Dr who was helping out after the avalanche.  Quick chat and straight into yummy dinner.  Everyone is on their way home.

Saturday 2 May 2015

Woke up at 5am and got our ticket.  Dawa organising for the luggage to get to Kathmandu (KTM) over two different flights, and he would also fly later.  With the fickle weather at Lukla it would be interesting to see if any of the luggage or Dawa would arrive today.

When I got to Pasang was waiting and her brother took me to a place for breakfast.  Met a couple of pilots who learnt to fly in Texas and they were having a quick eat before flying to Lukla.  Had a great conversation on the situation in KTM.

I was surprised when all my luggage showed up and we headed off to the hotel for rest.  We got my flights changed back to Australia so that was good.  No hassle at all.  Australia does not need to waste its money to 'evacuate' its citizens as commercial planes are back in operation.

In KTM in the afternoon/early morning, Dawa showed up.  He made it back to KTM.  That afternoon as I strolled through a quiet Thamal I ran into Apu!  He looked so different without his beard.

Apu and I caught up for dinner at the best pizza joint in KTM (Fire and Ice).  Surprisingly no waiting line and we had a good feed.  It was good to see Apu (and Victor).

Friday 1 May 2015

Just had a look around Lukla.  We are waiting for a plane out of Lukla (with everyone else).  Airport was very busy.  There was a lot of people from BC that we saw but primary concern was to look at getting out of here.  A 'tourist day'.

Dawa hooked us up with a cheap heli to Kathmandu late in the day (a lot of rushing) but we were 'snaked' by another group.  Then the weather came in and no more heli flights :-(.  We test our luck with the first plane out tomorrow morning.

Thursday 30 April 2015

Namche Bazar to Lukla was another long day.  Nothing too special except looking at the damaged buildings.  I developed blisters on my instep on both feet so it wasn't pleasant doing the hike.

I now forbid Dawa from taking 'short-cuts' :-).  He said there was a great shortcut on one section of the route, through a small forested area...but this ended up being damaged by a landslide!  We couldn't be bothered back-tracking so we crossed under the slide...not a stable area at all.  It felt like walking through deep powder snow constantly slipping down the hill, and hoping nothing comes down from the top.

The 'steps' back up to Lukla was never ending (but definitely good coming the other direction).  It was good to get to the guest house next to the airport and have a truly good hot shower with decent water pressure.

Wednesday 29 April 2015

Today was a quick run from Panboche to Namche Bazar.  Many damaged buildings as we had already seen.  Resting in Namche is good.  Had a good shower, my first one for around 8 days.  First time I have seen the news and the devastation of Kathmandu.  I am now trying to work out how to get from Lukla to Kathmandu as there is a backlog of flights and Lukla is always weather dependant.

Trying to get through to the Australian Embassy in Nepal to try to find out what the flight situations may be.  Even if I get back to Kathmandu, I still need to change my flights and to look at what is available.  I had heard at BC that many countries are doing flight evacuations as international flights is going to be mayhem.

We will head to Lukla tomorrow and it will be good to see my luggage again…some clean clothes.

It is strange but now that I am getting the news one can start to appreciate the devastation!  On the mountain (and on the way down) there is very little comms and you pick up little bits.   My sherpa and myself are taking stock of the situation.  For me, it is to stay focussed, out of the local's way and head home.  When you are at BC you are only focussed on one thing (unless you get all the news). 

Tuesday 28 April 2015

Big day.  We headed from BC to Pangboche.  Big downhill walk with loaded backpack.  Most of my stuff has been transported to Lukla, so it will be a few days before I get clean clothes to wear.  We are only carrying enough to get through the guest houses.

On the way you see the devastation that the earthquake has caused.  For example, in Periche most of the buildings we saw on the way up were good guest houses and fully booked.  On our downward journey virtually everyone had sustained serious damage, some totally flattened.  We saw a wrapped up body off the side of the road.  **I don’t take pictures of human death or suffering.  I do take pictures of aftermath damage so that people can appreciate the level of destruction that has been caused.  There is probably a tonne of stuff on the web already so my late pictures won’t be that exciting.

As I sit at Pangboche, I think about my own selfish interests and the natural events that have occurred.  The fact is nothing we could have done could have avoided the earthquake.  Shit just happens.  But how should a country that is so reliant on tourism react?  I don’t have the answer, and this is a wicked question, but in such times, should an isolated group continue to climb?  I am no bleeding-heart and I can say that my own selfish interests is that a service should be delivered, as it has been paid for.  Tragedy happens everyday, but in this instance it is a matter of degree of impact…does this mean that the proceeding of an expedition is based on a threshold criteria?  I don’t know.  What happens if the incident resulted with only one death…does that mean the expedition proceed?  A good wicked question for people to think about for themselves.

I am a very ‘transactional’ type of person so you can easily know which perspective I come from.  And before you bleeding-hearts go crazy, even some sherpas feel the same way.  Everyone is different.  It just depends how you see life.

Food for thought.

Monday 27 April 2015

Another nothing day.  This seems to be how most of my expedition has been spent.  Besides packing to leave, there are a few groups still destined to try to summit.  These are the big teams with high paying clients and sponsorship.  These will most likely have the funds to pay for ladders and ropes and helicopters.  They have still not made up their decision and my time is running out.  Since I am not using supplemental O2, I need to have time to acclimatise.

Some climbers are still hanging out to see what the big players will do, but my gut feeling is that they will not rope up the KIF.  Some are also staying longer to avoid Kathmandu, but seriously, Kathmandu remediation is going to take ages (6mths to years) and staying a few extra days/weeks won’t make a difference.  I want to leave Nepal as I need space to get my head straight again. 

We are pretty much resolved to leaving BC tomorrow.  It is too depressing spending so much time in BC. In a way I don’t mind the occasional earthquake…not that I am sadistic, but I have only felt the initial and aftershock…a unique sensation.  Similarly, being hit by an avy is a very unique experience.  Fortunately it wasn’t the icy/chunky/meaty part of the avy, but rather the crushed and massively dissipated snow cloud front that hit.  Otherwise I wouldn’t be here.  I would like to get that feeling again…

Sunday 26 April 2015

The inevitable is true…everyone goes home.  The other teams don’t have the resources and desire to proceed.  Pikers!  Why come to a mountain to not push for the true goal?  So disappointed.  First sign of adversity and they run home with their tails between their legs.

If it was not for me trying Lhotse+Everest double, I would have definitely done Everest by itself from the Tibet side.  There are no hassles with the KIF, less people and way easier to get acclimatised.  I feel envious of those that are climbing from the Nth side of Everest…the weather is looking very good and they should have a great chance of summit success.

The BC is being packed-up and we I head off tomorrow.  We thought about trying for Makalu but it is too expensive to jump to it, and also without the proper acclimatisation, it could be a throwaway knee-jerk reaction.

We are still looking at trying to save our C1 (and a stash a little under C1) gear as it works out to be approx. $7K.  Helicopters are expensive at $6K!  Is it worth trying to retrieve old and new gear?

This has been a huge financial loss as I cannot get 8,000m+ expedition insurance so it hurts big time!  This expedition has not even started as we only hit around C1…really nothing at all.  Just a trek.

I must attract the worst possible luck:

2014 Cho Oyu –taken down by diarrhoea for 30+days to summit night.  My fault for not carrying antibiotics.

2014 Shishapangma –did not even commence –everyone left BC by the time we got there due to avalanche deaths.  People too scared to proceed.

2015 Everest+Lhotse – Earthquake causes deaths at BC and everyone leaves.  Expedition barely starts and it is over.

If you see Gil walking across the street, then run…I bring more bad luck than a black cat or broken glass.

I think I am having enough of this bad luck.  Maybe it is time to stop throwing good money at this mountaineering dream and follow another dream (bucket list).  It comes to a stage when all this bad luck must mean something.  ¾ of these were beyond my control.  If it was in my control then I can adjust but I cannot win of kama is constantly against me.

Sunday 26 April 2015

Morning:

The first thing I woke up to was bluebird skies.  Then I saw a procession of Chinese climbers from Seven Summits leaving BC.  The second bravado team leaves BC with no great loss.  Only one of their team was of true assistance.

We wait to see if the expeditions proceed or not.  The main route through the KIF is still good with repairs required.  We also need to coordinate lines above C2 to summits.

My gut feeling is that the Nepalese will take the easy route and cancel.  I think the expeditions should still proceed, but time to acclimatise is running out fast.  The weather windows will be critical.

As I have always said, if you take on mountaineering then accept that death is an inevitability.  Embrace the challenge.

Evening:

The Seven Summits remaining group met and some were keen to proceed whilst others not.  Not good sign.  The group agreed that it would be difficult to proceed as the SPCC (Ice Fall Drs) were no longer at BC as a few of their team members had passed away, their camp entirely wiped-out and nil ladders or gear remained.  Regardless, Gabriel would try to coordinate with the remaining teams to see if they were still keen and willing to pool the resources together to get through the KIF and fix lines above C2.

We are also hoping that the Nepalese Government provides for permit extension as it was the SPCC that could not fulfil the KIF service requirements for which each client on the mountain pays a hefty USD$600 apiece.  Seven Summits will have to keep us informed on this request.

Saturday 25 April 2015

ANZAC Day.  Besides the light, slushy spring snow (constantly snowing) it is just a matter of separating out my high camp gear vs BC gear.  Mostly done a few days ago but refining to reduce unnecessary carry.  In this modern age there is a lot more electronics that need to be carried, but keep to a minimal.  Battery management is critical.

Long-life clothing reduces the need to carry lots of clothes up and down.  My load carrying principle is that by the end of the expedition that I should be able to fully carry all my own stuff down myself if required.

…..{that was early morning}

Then all hell broke loose!

I lost a sense of time but, I felt the ground shake around 20cm lateral movement that unbalanced me inside the tent.  We could hear an avalanche starting and it kept building.  I unzipped my tent and looked up the glacier…nothing except cloudy snowy skies, then I looked straight and saw Gabriel outside his tent pointing down the glacier…holy shit!  The biggest wall of vertical snow (guess 50m high of white fluff) was heading right towards us uphill.

This was slow moving but it had width and mass.  I was in my thermal pants and light down jacket and threw my feet into my unlaced hiking boots.  I got out of the tent and saw people running uphill and could hear ‘run’!

In my mind I knew that I could not outrun an avy yet I stumbled with my unlaced boots say 30m to the dining tent.  The avy had already reached me and I was being showered with snow and it was difficult to breath, until I got into the dining tent doorway with some others and hunkered down, hoping desperately that the tent would not fail.

In all common sense that 30m wouldn’t have made a difference, and my tent would have been more rigid.  Within 20secs it subsided with a lot of lingering snow in the air, surprisingly peaceful.  As the snow settled it looked serene and I could see my tent was still standing.  I ran over to it and immediately got into warm clothes and my full goretex gear and 8000m boots.  This should keep me warm as I knew the shit was to commence.

I headed up to the Seven Summit Treks general congregation area and made sure that the people I knew were OK.  I sent off my first few Tweets to ensure that people knew I was alive.

Since our area was not too impacted, we thought that everyone would be in a similar position, but then the radio reports started coming in.  Four sherpas had been in the Khumbu Icefall (KI) and were in trouble.  Lakpa Sherpa (the Sirdir) headed up to rescue them.

At around the same time Apu (Peruvian) came running up saying that urgent help was needed down below and that many had been in serious trouble and died.  Apu and Victor (both Peruvians) were in mid BC when the avy hit and came out unscathed.  I immediately went to him and said ‘what do you need’?  Where?

Within a couple of minutes as we got our heads into perspective, a group of us started running down.  It didn’t take us long to hit mid BC and you could see around 35% of BC had been impacted, some areas totally decimated with gear strewn everywhere.  We could see blood where some had already been treated.

The group split and my first stop was with a bunch of sherpas helping one of their own.  He was wet and freezing cold.  Stopping hypothermia was critical so I went and grabbed as much dry clothing and sleeping bags that I could find.  I told the sherpas to open up the strewn duffel bags for gear and to keep the injured warm and dry until medical assistance arrived.  The common theme with everyone I visited was that they were freezing (excluding the trauma suffered).

I then ran into Dawa who was also in shock.  We kept running through the various people seeing what they needed and did the best we could.

I think, within 30mins or so certain coordination points had been established to help the injured.  I followed one patient delivery to one of these main spots (in mid BC –uncomfortable feeling).  It was like a MASH unit you see on TV (all outdoors).

There were many people standing around and a few Drs running a good show.  There were even some ******* videoing and taking pictures of the seriously injured.  I went straight up to the main Dr and said ‘What do you need?’  He replied hot water bottles and to comfort the injured and keep them warm.  One of the other female Drs asked me to look after a Japanese lady (Tomoko was her name I believe).  I believe that she had a broken leg.  I tried to hit up some people for some empty water bottles and hot water but some fuckers were only interested in taking pictures.  This was the bad side of the human spirit!  I was lucky enough to find a Sherpa who knew Tomoko and I said ‘I don’t give a fuck but your friend is freezing and she needs hot water bottles’.  It seems that the main Dr was desperately looking for hot water bottles for all…and it isn’t as if that is something had to find amongst mountaineers.

To my surprise, that Sherpa came back with a thermos, 2 Nalgene water bottles and a large empty soft drink container!  These were the only hot water bottles that I saw during my time there (approx. 3hrs or so).  Top effort on his part.  Tomoko and I started chatting about Japan and the places I have visited.  But she got colder and then I rested next to her and we had extra gear thrown on us to try to keep her warm.

Eventually it was time to move Tomoko down to lower BC and they stretchered her out.  I was too tired by 4pm to help carry her out and was out of energy.  I said goodbye and hope she recovers well.

As I was about to leave that area I was told they needed more help to carry people down.  I was totally knackered but you cannot leave people in that state…imagine if that was me needing help.

Low and behold Apu came up (and obviously others) to help carry and thus we carried an injured Sherpa down to lower BC.  This was extremely tough work as it was slippery and rocky.  Probably 30mins.  I needed to rotate out a couple of times as I suck at carrying.  I did the best I could and covered a fair distance.

Lower BC was packed with the injured.  I did not want to stay around as Apu and I needed to see what was happening back at our camp and it was around 4:45pm by then.

When we got back to camp I found out that:

1. 1) Huge earthquake had occurred in Nepal with big damage.
2. 2) No helicopters flying to BC but 6 heli’s on standby in Lukla.
3. 3) Sherpa stuck on KIF may die*
4. 4) The good Dr that I mentioned a couple of days ago left BC and did not assist when asked by one of the people helping coordinate response {I’m not sure what is the reasoning but I heard some words which I will not expand upon}

*Sherpa on the KIF was rescued and Chinese nurse Dong Lee who patched up his damaged head.

I won’t be harsh to those that did not assist, as people react to tragic circumstances differently.  It is natural to be afraid and for the basic survival instinct to trigger.  I am however very disappointed in the Korean and Chinese teams in Seven Summits for not lending a hand.  They were all ‘bravado’ when they arrived with their large sponsorship banners and numerous video cameras, but when the shit hit the fan, they were nowhere to be seen.

The Korean group with their green gear were seen leaving BC later that day.  Enough said.

It has been a long day.  I admit that I was scared when the avy approached and hit.  I thought that I had made better peace with death than that…but it was exciting!  A feeling/experience that I personally wouldn’t mind having again…

I learnt that some people are truly scum bags (you know who you are videographers) and I saw some truly amazing people step up to the mark.  Truly admirable.  I thought that my new friend Apu was truly an amazing person with a good heart.  He did his country proud (and many others as well).

It now appears that my dream to climb the 14x8000m is over as I can never afford to do the Everest + Lhotse mountains again.  I’m not sure how I feel but I now I will be devastated once everything settles down.

For the injured I hope they recover well.  We are still stuck in BC and this may still be for a while as infrastructure in Nepal is damaged.

Tomorrow is another day.

Friday 24 April 2015

Puja day.  This is the second mountain that I have experienced a puja.  As an atheist I just have to respect the local culture as it is important to the locals.  This time around I could not get engaged as much as there was a lot of Chinese advertising in a religious ceremony prayer flags.  This is not good to mix a religious ceremony with commercialisation.  I did not want to be associated with unknown Chinese companies, and given my belief, I was happy to hide into the background.

Dawa heads up to C1 and C2 tomorrow to set things up with the rest of Seven Summit Treks.  I will take a run at the KIF and back to BC to shake the cobwebs off.  On Sunday we plan to all move up to C1 and C2.

Thursday 23 April 2015

Time for my next rant!  I just saw this happen.  A Doctor I met was asked for assistance by a kitchen hand who had brought a porter to him for assistance.  The porter was not looking good.  So the good Dr Dragon (yes, that is his name), started doing his diagnosis when all of a sudden a bunch of "want-to-be (WTB) Drs" started throwing in their advice and solutions!

I could not believe it!  I was pent up with anger towards these WTBs.  Who the hell do they think they are?  The good Dr was trying to do a job that he was well qualified to undertake.  He did not need advice from expedition leaders, clients, researchers etc.  If WTB Drs think they are so good, then they should get properly certified and practicing...otherwise shut the hell up.  If you cannot make the cut into medical school and come out qualified, then I don't need to hear your dangerous medical opinion.  You are not smart enough to deal with possible contra-indication outcomes when you simply say...give them drug 'x'.  What happens if they have an allergic reaction?  Did you even ask for their history?  Are the WTB Drs going to be accountable?  They will be the first to shut their mouths when something goes wrong and refer the matter to a qualified Dr!

I swear that at BC there must be the highest density of 'experts' in every field (particularly in medicine).  Egos everywhere!  They are also the highest number of drug takers known to mankind.

Oh by the way, the good Dr did his thing while WTB Drs continued to give him their 'expert' advice...even telling him how to prescribe medication (WTB Dr recommending x2 dosage of what the Dr recommended, but then agreeing with the Dr when he said the medication was already twice the concentration).  

Unqualified WTBs = insecure dumb ass.

Wednesday 22 April 2015

My OCENS forecast was incorrect.  The weather was a perfect bluebird day.  Another rest day.  They are planning to have the puja ceremony on Friday.  

I am also going to have words with the ‘Everest Link’ ISP…they charge you a horrendous USD$50 (for 1GB) for service but it never works (probably 3 times in a week for a minute or so each time, if you are lucky).  Dodgy!  Let’s see if they dare show up.

I am a fair person but if you don’t provide the internet service that you sell, then I expect a refund.  It is dishonest to charge/sell a service that does not exist.  Everyone is complaining.  I’d rather not have the service and save up my updates until I return to Kathmandu (or use my satellite service).  I have to stop corruption regardless where it resides, and at whatever level it may reside.  If you don’t stop it now then others will suffer.

Achilles is feeling a lot better with a tinge of strain…but good to go.

I think many clients have headed up to C1 to sleep.  They may come back down to BC for puja or not.  The western clients from other groups are most likely already setup for the big C1 camps and setting up C2.  I think that Seven Summits Treks are running late and I am not happy.  C1 and C2 should be setup by now.  When they are setup, there is literally no reason to come back down to BC and risk having to navigate through the KIF.  It means full ability to get down to business of acclimatisation.

Tuesday 21 April 2015

Purely domestic and rest day.  I see the weather is coming in for the next few days (OCENS forecast).  Lucky we got to at least half decent height but so much more hard climbing acclimatisation still do.  I’m thinking that only doing the big E from the Tibet side may have been the better bet.

Monday 20 April 2015

Huge day (and night)!

Let’s start with a crazy dream…I was apparently visiting friend “C.Bergan” {no I am not dreaming about a tent I have reviewed, it is supposed to resemble an image of an actual person –not sure where this name came from}.  I was driving my VW Polo GTI, but in left-hand-drive, through suburbs with many roundabouts and single storey houses when I find myself in a high density city centre and condos.  The next thing is I run into CB who was smiling at me and we headed out to dinner and had a great time.  The next morning I visited CB to tell her that she is the ‘bees knees’ and she was crying for no reason as she was very upset with me.  Apparently she had heard that I had cheated on her, but her friends said that was not like Gil.  I for some reason caught a bus looking back at CB and found myself in a hustling downtown area.  As I stepped off the bus CB was there waiting for me.  We hugged and it was at that time that I woke up and it was time to get ready for the day.  What is the next instalment?  Will there be a next instalment?

At 2am I woke up to get ready for a 3:00am start from BC to C1.  The weather was nice and cool (not cold) and by the time we had started, there was already a stream of lights going up.  The Khumbu Icefall (KI) was very tough, a lot tougher than I had expected.  Looking at the KIF, it doesn’t look that intimidating but it is literally criss-cross, up and down, ladders (they were all simple) and a lot of using the ascender (not too difficult at all if you learnt to time the feet with the arm stroke).

The KIF took us a crazy 13hrs to get to the top (just shy of C1) and back again.  There was around 4.5hrs of waiting and backlog as some people just struggled with basic things like ladders.  At the first big ladder (3 ladders strapped together) around 50 people got sick of waiting and decided to go back down.  There was still around 100 people left on the queue.  Dave Hann (from IMG I think –I’ve seen him around BC a few times) said to me to not hang around too long and that the line was still 100 long.  Dawa and I had a chat and we decided to tough it out in the cold before the sun came out.

I have to say it was now that I had truly understood how strong the porters and Sherpa’s were.  They just smashed it up the KIF.  I was struggling as I had not come this high yet (we got to 5,904m before we dropped out gear shy of C1).  Disappointed.

There was a lot of slow going at the KIF as there were some big steps and loose stuff.  Nothing hazardous.  On the way down I didn’t recognise the path as it was dark when we got up…you only focus on the 2m in front of you and beside you.  You could actually appreciate the length of the KIF.  The Garmin GPS had a total distance of 23.5km (GPS struggled to get a lock at the top)!  The sun was crazy hot and the reflected heat did nothing to help.  It was one tough day.

When I got back to BC I just crashed and slept.  My right Achilles tendon was a little strained and a couple of days rest should see it through.

My concern is how I can get acclimatised quicker without losing too much strength.  Dawa thinks I should do a couple more laps of BC to C1 but my hunch is that will tire me out too much (burn too much muscle).  I am thinking that as soon as C1 has been setup by Seven Summits Treks that it would become my new locale. 

I am not really keen on lapping the KIF.

Sunday 19 April 2015

Last night was a howler of a night.  Windy!  No snow.  When I woke up at 6:30am it had completely stopped and out came a bluebird day.  It will be a stinking hot day under the sun.  I may try to get some clothes washing out of the way .

There will be some ladder practice this morning and will start to pack for C1/C2 tomorrow morning.  About time I get to leave BC.  Over a week at BC will make anybody go mad…particularly me.

Saturday 18 April 2015

Did absolutely nothing…oops, I did sell my La Sportiva Baruntse boots to Shenang (he is from West Nepal climbing with us).  Unheard of as it is usually somebody selling me something instead.  He got a bargain at 50% off retail and it’s been only used on Aconcagua and looks as good as new.  They were a tad big for me so they had to go.

Friday 17 April 2015

Dawa was suppose to take me to Kalapathar from BC but he got lost.  What we ended up doing instead was hitting close to our desired height of 5,550m (hit 5,512m) but we were way off our desired mountain.  Instead of a simple acclimatisation hike, we got a little more technical than desired.  I haven’t done anything technical since Sep 2014.  Where we got to was another ridge looking over to Kalapathar, with approx. 150m-200m vertical drop to the base before we could get to base of Kalapathar.  This was not a shortcut.  The weather also started to come in.

This got me seriously thinking about the differences between Western guides and Nepalese guides.

As I observed the IMG Guide who was near us, who I had seen many times throughout BC, it was apparent that western guides have a much more structured ‘program’.  This program is way superior and what I would deem very professional setup…for those that want structure and are not independent.

Western Guides are superior in that:

1. They plan for constant physical activity, even on rest days.  This is very important to ensure that the body keeps in good shape and that their clients are super fit.  In contrast, Nepalese guides tend to use these as unproductive ‘rest days’, which to be honest, is the worst thing you could do.  There is so much time spent in BC is that rest days actually do harm.
2. They do not take clients into areas that they are not familiar with, thus exposing them to unknown risks.  They only take them on routes that they know very well as that route is targeting some objective in particular.  A guide should not take you to a place that they are not familiar with regardless if they meet the objective (height in my case).  If you don’t know where you are going then you should not take your client there.
3. They work within their limits and client limits.  This is where I believe Nepalese guides fail to understand the ramifications of their actions.  Dawa had recognised that the route that we were on was probably not the safest (in some areas).
4. They are constantly working.  What you find with Nepalese Guides is that they know each other and thus they fall into a ‘friend catch-up’ mode with all the other Sherpa’s.  It is good to see your friends again, but they forget that this is a job!  It is about perception.

From what I can tell, there is still a significant gap level of professionalism.  On a scale of 1-10, if Western Guides are deemed as the upper standard (say 9), then the level of professionalism of Nepalese guides would be say 4.  There is still a long way to go.

I will do what I can to help the Nepalese guides improve (what little I can), because that is the only way for true sustained attainment of financial security for many in the industry.  I know that some Nepalese guides are amazing climbers with amazing fitness, but because they are not exposed to the same level of education or customs of westerners, for who they wish to obtain as high value clients, then they need to focus on the ‘professionalism aspect’ of mountaineering.  This will hopefully put them into the same level as their western competitors and raise their standing (gain respect).

Why shouldn’t Nepalese guides and companies demand the same income levels as their western counterparts?  Simply, it is about trust, value and professionalism.  Until the standard improves, who would choose to pay a premium for an unknown quantity?  As competition increases, the costs of expeditions should reach an equilibrium where hopefully the Nepalese will provide greater value services and gain market share.

A prime example of the improvement across the Nepalese tourism sector can be reflected in the guest houses along the many tourist routes.  They were very limited and poor quality say 10-15yrs ago, but they are very good now and it has led to greater tourism and self-sustainment.

Later that night our shared dining tent got bigger in size and more new people arrived.  Good to see some new faces.

The weather for the next few days should be getting better.  I am busting to get to C2 and above as soon as possible.

Thursday 16 April 2015

I lied yesterday, I did not have a shower.  I did have a shower today after pacing through BC.  Ran into an Australian -Brisbane 'James' and his US friend 'Alice' on the way down.  At the starrt of BC there was an Australian camp (flag flapping).  I didn't stop by and headed back up, where I saw James/Alice but I didn't stop as I rushed past -I was timing myself back up the hill.  This was much needed exercise.

The weather is stinking hot.  One other member measured his inside tent temp at 40C!  And it is still snowing (itsy bit).

This is not a good year to be trying Everest/Lhotse on the Nepal side.  If I was only going for Everest only, then I would do it via Tibet as you have less issues and get to acclimitise higher easier.

Wednesday 15 April 2015

Another fruitless day.  My days are getting so exciting now.  At lunchtime I will have a shower and clean some clothes.  These are some manic days.  Time for some reflection (as I am BORED).

There is some cloud cover above the Khumbu Icefall but pretty clear underneath.  If all goes well I think we will head up for some acclimatisation tomorrow morning.  It has nearly been a week stuck at BC.  I think I am getting more stupid as I sit in my tent twiddling my thumbs.

I have been impressed by the sanitation efforts of the camp staff.  The ‘outhouse’ tubs/barrels get swapped out properly (tubs taken away) unlike on Cho Oyu where it is just a hole in the ground.  That said, it would be appreciated if patrons could be much more accurate with their 1s and 2s!  It isn’t that difficult to hit the target.  Good quads and glutes are a must if you are not use to squatting over a hole. 

A lot of people are coughing and spluttering everywhere and I am starting to join in.  I am probably on the tail end of it and lucky so far to have avoided the dreaded Khumbu Cough (which I suffered from big time in Cho Oyu).  It can get so bad that you feel like your ribs are broken just from the hacking coughs.

I’m not happy that my Power Traveller Power Monkey Solar charger has failed.  It’s been barely used and when you need it, it fails.  The poorly designed little recharge plug (power input) is not durable and has too much play for a proper connection.  I was relying on this for power in higher camps.  Now I’ll have to carry my backup solar sheet and hope it will do the trick.  I’ll deal with the warranty/repair issue when I get back home.

A surprising amount of people have left the Seven Summit Treks base camp.  These are people using them as a guide service and logistics (as I am).  Some were only trekkers but other expeditioners seem to have problems heading up to BC, whilst others suffered ‘organisational’ problems.  It really isn’t that difficult to organise an expedition…people tend to over complicate simple things.

When I could be bothered socialising (uncommon as I am a grumpy fart) I have heard some comical (serious really) stories of acclimatisation:

1) (heard from second-hand source so not sure how true it is –but here it is anyway)

A group rushed to BC from Lukla (3days or something like that).  They complained of suffering from severe headaches and tingling in fingers.  One person suggested to the other they take more Diamox, from which the response from the other was that he was already taking 4 tablets.  If this story is true, then people deserve everything they get.  If taking say standard 250mg/tablet Diamox you are pushing the limits already.  Furthermore, why race to BC when you are already seeing some significant altitude sickness symptoms?  

2) (heard from the primary source within a group)

Group containing trekkers and expeditioners were heading to BC from Lukla.  Some members were feeling the sign of altitude sickness but was suggested they push on by the ‘guide’.  The expedition guide (with his own guiding company) was apparently a very well experienced summiteer (expert some would say).  Some were ‘crying’ and one other younger trekker actually collapsed at one stage.  A physician in the group helped out as the guide was incapable of managing the situation (did not really know what to do or control the situation).  Many in the group turned around and headed home over the days due to extremely poor guide advice.  Others were 'effectively' dumped by that guide.  FFS (as I told the primary source –as I am blatantly honest)!  Everybody should have been smacked in the face (and I would have slapped them all if I had the chance)!  Everybody wanted to be ‘nice’ and ‘social’ when they should have taken proper action. 

i) There are no ‘experts’ as there are no criteria to determine expertise in this area.  Anybody can call themselves an ‘expert’.  Just because you may have summited does not mean you are a guiding expert.  There is a lot more to guiding.  It is a matter of degree of competence and guiding experience.  I was trained in NZ by what I call an exceptional mountaineering guide, but I can tell you I would never blindly follow his advice (he taught me to make my own decisions with the knowledge I had).  Your life in your hands...if I make a mistake, then I am the only person responsible. *I have a very high respect for qualified NZ mountaineers, they just do things so well.

ii) Even ‘experts’ make mistakes.  History clearly show some exceptional guides meeting their end on the mountain.  You cannot eliminate the mountaineering risk completely…that is why we seek the challenge.

iii) Only fools blindly accept what they are told!  If you know something is wrong, then immediately challenge it!  Educate yourself and do not simply put your life into somebody’s hands.  This is the stupidest thing you could do.  This is what angers me –I also hate self-claimed experts.  Happy to take them down every time as they all have an underlying agenda or ego.

I don’t claim to be an expert…because I am not…but neither am I an idiot.  People can do whatever they want with their money (I don’t tell you what to do), but why would people give their money to so-called-‘expert’ guides when they are not (verify?)?  Why are people so trusting when they should be well educated adults?  Every industry is trying to ‘sell’ you something, so shouldn’t you be thinking a little more?

If this is the extent of how well-educated people think, then one has to worry.  I think this is why I was a little upset yesterday.

Tuesday 14 April 2015

Did some refresh stuff at the base of the Khumbu Icefall…then the snow comes in again.  Seriously pissed!  This weather is just not letting up.  There is no global warming as it’s snowing like crazy...on and off.  Stuff avalanche danger risk, I'm tempted just to head up and take my chances...

Now at 3:15pm it is stinking hot again.

Getting agitated as internet has been poor and satphone is useless.  I'll use my other sat device next time.  With expensive internet $50/GB picture uploads will have to occur once I am back to civilisation.  My first world problem boo hoo hoo...smack me in the face please.

Oh, hot off the press!  There are just so many 'wankers' with egos and people trying to set a 'new' record of some sort here! OK, not new news!  Seriously, I have never met so many people with so many agendas.  People planning post summit interviews, film teams, doing something for charity etc...and some have never even done basic mountaineering.

Let's break it down:
1) Climbing for charity -No, you are climbing for yourself and hoping charity funding either help subsidise your expedition or you are seeking some sort of publicity (stroke your ego).  How many people have climbed for charity over the high number of years?  How many of these have been sustained or effective?  Why not just give your expedition funds straight to the charity?
2) 'Being the first' -Oh seriously, you are full of it.  How many people want to be that '1st' of something totally meaningless!  Nobody seriously cares!  There is an infinite number of combinations of '1st'.  Why not be the 1st to sing your national anthem, whilst drinking a Coke, whilst wearing a dress without wearing a right glove for 10 minutes?  There you go, you can be the first!

The true Everest mountaineers are the ones that get you up there.  They are the first to the summit and they work their butts off for you.  So, if you think you are 'all that', then seriously think again.

Just climb the mountain...no need for other BS!  Yes, I am in a bad mood but some things are just silly!

Monday 13 April 2015

Woke up at 3:30am and the snow last night had kept coming down with poor visibility.  By 7am around a foot of snow had fallen, and continued falling.  Dawa told me that we weren’t heading up.  All tents had to be cleared of snow.  Not happy that we will not be heading up to C1 after all.  More time spent at BC.  This is driving me crazy as I cannot stand not doing anything at all.

It is amazing how delayed flights and delayed luggage can mess up my acclimatisation plan.  I was feeling great when I arrived into BC, caught a small cold and hoping that it shakes off pretty soon.  The sooner I leave BC the better. 

Since my satphone cannot receive a signal, I cannot get my weather forecast from OCENS.  I want to get moving as soon as I can, as I feel weaker when I am not doing anything strenuous.  I think I’ll head out onto the ice and have a twaddle around.  The risk of avalanche will be higher for the next couple of days.

I am surprised that some people come to Everest with zero mountaineering experience such as crampon and ice axe use.  Unless you are a fast learner, one would have to be putting an unnecessary level of trust onto others…a bad approach…one should be fully self-sufficient.

Overall, I am not too happy with how things have been going.  But some things are uncontrollable.

Sunday 12 April 2015

Nothing to do today.  My final bag arrived late on the day so some quick gear organising.  We intend to head off to C1 tomorrow morning from 4:30am or so.  I got to do some boring clothes washing…than god, I had been wearing the same clothes for around 1wk and I was starting to smell.  Some clothes will not dry in time, but hey, stinky wet clothes will smell better than unwashed clothes.  I have to admit that my Exofficio underpants have stood up well :-).

Saturday 11 April 2015

The big run to BC (4.69km).  BC is well spread-out with many expedition groups.  The first look at the Khumbu Icefall was surprisingly not that intimidating.  Maybe it will be when I get closer.  Dawa tells me that my expedition bag is somewhere between Lobuche and Goreckshep…not happy.  This can mean up to 3 days further delay!  Dawa has sent a porter down to try to find the bag.  We were planning to rest tomorrow and then load carry to Camp 1 (C1) on Sunday.  Let’s hope it shows up tomorrow otherwise my ‘magical’ plan will be out by a total of 5 days.

I prefer to be acclimatised early rather than later, to take advantage of any weather window openings.

The weather is definitely colder but lucky I have carried enough stuff to be warm.  I have also caught a slight cold…this is what happens when you are in such close proximity to so many other expeditioners (when in Goreckshep).

Internet has been non-existent for the last 4 days.  The tea houses charge you for WiFi…but no internet connection.  Suckers.  A smart person would actually ask other persons about internet connectivity performance before committing to buying ‘WiFi’.

I am also having difficulty getting satellite connection via my Inmarsat satphone service.  Talk about crap!  Let’s hope there is satphone connection from C1 onwards.

Besides the normal sound of avalanches (not on the Khumbu Icefall), there’s nothing much to do.

Friday 10 April 2015

This was an easy run from Thukla to Goreckshep…not (8.37km).  Naturally it goes uphill.  Goreckshep is pretty small place well setup for the quick tourists.  What I didn’t like about it was that a lot of expedition groups and trekkers would stay here…not much peace and quiet.  We ran into the UK family and Israeli at this stop again.

It is strange but my mind is starting to only focus on making it to base camp, rather than enjoying the scenery.  In a way I am keen to have a sleep-in but I know I need to keep focussed as we have lost 2 days to our plan already due to Lukla airport closure.

Thursday 9 April 2015

Today was a journey from Pangboche to Thukla (10.36km).  The route was the typical ‘mountain’ vista.  When we got to Thukla we had a good break and met some nice people.  One was a Russian who was working in Milan (I cannot remember his name), an Israeli (Dan) and a UK family that had visited Nepal around 20 times (father Andrew, mother Trish, elder son James and youngest son Daniel).  It was just good to have a conversation that wasn’t related to mountaineering.  It was great to take the piss out of everyone!

Wednesday 8 April 2015

This is a big day of hiking from Namche Bazar to Pangboche (3,985m).  It was a total distance of 14.1km and around 440m vertical from Namche (down then up, up, up).  We decided not to stop at Tengbuche (only stopped for lunch) even though the hike up from the river to Tengbuche was long and steep.  I think the couple of kilometres up to Tengbuche was a lot harder than I had expected.

As we headed down and then up from Tengbuche to Pangboche, it was not that bad at all.  There was only one section where we had to literally hug the wall to get through that section…a small vertical rock slab with a solid foot hold (not really good hand holds).  If you slipped/dropped off that foot hold then a big vertical drop awaited -you would be a goner. It was just a matter of face-to-the-wall, poke the butt out and two step shuffle.  A bit uncomfortable without protection (ie. think of it like a free climb itsy bit).  My camera got in the way as we hugged around it, but only a small scratch on the camera lens cover.  I couldn’t be stuffed going the chicken route as that would have taken longer.

Longish day (net 5:15hrs) and it was the first time I noticed the cooler conditions.  No longer could I just wear a long sleeve shirt but I had to throw on the softshell.

Now resting at Highland Sherpa Resort before another day of hiking towards base camp.  This is actually a very good guest house.  It has its own toilet in the single room and the dining room is huge with spectacular views.  Nice place to stay!  If you are coming this way then definitely stay here.

After a quick rest we went to visit Lama Geshi (a stop off for expeditions) for puja.  This was at an altitude of 4092m or so (picture of route below).

I’m going to enjoy the sleep tonight.

Tuesday 7 April 2015

This was a relaxing day…climbing up from 3,480m to 3,880m over 5.65km.  It was nice and steep to get things started as we headed straight up Namche to the Everest View Hotel (3,880m).  That Everest View Hotel is generally for customers that catch a helicopter up to it.  It also gets a lot of trekkers (like me) that head up there for some light exercise.  The building reminds me of an European Chalet, a good quality one.  Nice place (check out the pictures when they are posted).

Ang Furba Sherpa (Dawa’s brother) then took me to Khumjung (dropped approx. 50m).  This is a nicely spread-out village that is very well catered for trekkers.  I think it is seriously way better than Namche as it is flatter and the experience is much more ‘authentic’…as there are less ‘tourist shops’…but Namche is a Bazar after all.

It is a bit disappointing that many trekkers do not stay at Khumjung, purely because it is an effort to get up there.  It is 350m vertical steep hike over Namche and then some hiking, and this is after getting from Phakding to Namche in the first place.  Khumjung is slightly out of the Everest route but is definitely worth a visit.  If you are feeling awesomely fit then I would say a trek from Phakding to Khumjung would definitely test your ‘awesomeness’.

The half-circular loop (anti-clockwise) route from the Everest View Hotel, via Khumjung back to Namche was 2.8km.  Furba got a little lost in Khumjung (deciding which path to take) but I pointed him in the correct direction!  Hard to believe but I do have some basic navigational skills :-).  

Total distance covered was only 8.45km but the steepness was exactly what I was looking for.

For the rest of the day I spent looking around Namche Bazar and the local stores.  A lot of the stuff it sells are the same as what you can find in Kathmandu.

Monday 6 April 2015

A quick breakfast after having a nice sleep in Phakding.  My Sherpa is going to fly by helicopter to Lukla today and meet us in Namche.  So we headed off to Namche.  It started a little cold and moist but heated up very quickly.  A lot of river crossings and the last 4km I think were the most challenging.  It just kept going up.  Great way to shake off the Kathmandu cobwebs.

The distance from my Garmin 920XT was 11.95km, but I think it was a little more as I had it on pause for a bit.

Naturally amazing views (you'll have to wait for the pictures at the end of the trip) with steep mountain sides and quite a few long suspension bridges.  Sharing a bridge with 7 mule/donkeys and around 10 people loaded up is interesting...I have no idea what the weight loading of that bridge was but hey, it's all good!

Now resting at the Namche Guest House with another rest day tomorrow.

Sunday 5 April 2015

To my disbelief we actually were able to fly out of Kathmandu to Lukla today!  The plane would fly very close to the mountain sides and the hairy little Lukla airport is 'unique'.  Thank god for experienced pilots.  My  Sherpa was to come on a subsequent flight...but sadly his flight was cancelled!  Arriving into Lukla I was met by the Sherpa's little brother who would walk with me to Phakding where we stayed the night at the Shangri-La Guest House.

Saturday 4 April 2015

Afternoon:
Another wasted day with Flight Attempt #2 cancelled.  Back to another hotel (Hotel Thamel).  Hotel was right next to the Hotel Vaishali that I stayed in last year...which meant that it was noisy as hell.  Doof doof music until late and barking dogs.  Barely got any sleep.  

Morning: 
Back at Hotel Shanker from the cancelled Lukla flight yesterday.  Flight attempt #2 today.  Weather forecast via Accuweather has a thunderstorm at our departure time but expected to clear on either side of it.  Not sure how much wind will be a problem for landing.  The planes are old school propeller type and we get packed in there like sardines.  I have heard the stories of the landing strip on the side of a mountain.  I just want to get there!

Friday 3 April 2015

This morning at breakfast I met a UK national by the name of Andrew.  He was ex-military and had visited Nepal every year for the last 20yrs.  He was here for the Gurkha 200 celebrations for ex-military.

Andrew was sponsoring two children to get through to university and was here catching up with them.  To me, this approach is superior to ‘giving’ to charity as it creates skills that the individuals can utilise.  Such an approach has no money loss in logistics…100% of the funding is used directly to the individual for a specific purpose.  Each to their own and good on Andrew on his efforts.

Andrew had told me that one of his friends had attempted to summit Everest and passed away up high.  Sad circumstance, but it is not something that I want to hear before my own expedition.  I think that it is important to know that death is a possibility, and, I have made peace with that eventuality if it arises…that’s not to say I am searching it out!  I hope Andrew has a good journey back to the UK today.

Wow, the domestic airport terminal at Kathmandu airport is old school.  Very hectic and could be so much better organised for simplicity and efficiency, even with little to nil capital investment.  Lucky I have my Sherpa to deal with the logistics.  It is always a unique experience to see how other countries manage and run their infrastructure…so unlike the pristine western standards.

I am currently waiting in the domestic terminal and looking forward to landing into Lukla.  Once landed we would be heading towards Everest BC with a 3-4hr hike.  I hope the plane isn’t too delayed as I like to finish the hike earlier rather than later.

Thursday 2 April 2015

Relaxed day with a Puja ceremony from a high standing Llama priest.  I don’t personally believe in the Puja ceremony but it helps the locals then no problems here.  I just know that the only luck I get is bad luck…which means I need to fight for everything.  Even when I do get some good luck there is a whopper of a bad luck heading my way!  No luck is the best I can wish for.

I spent the afternoon chilling in Thamel which gets tiring and boring, given that I have been here before.  It is good to stay at a hotel that is quiet (ie. Hotel Shanker).

In future trips into Kathmandu I will spend less time there with a quicker exit to whichever expedition I have planned.

Wednesday 1 April 2015

Arrived into Kathmandu this afternoon after travelling 29hrs (total transit time).  Nothing special today but to get adjusted to the correct time zone.  I felt surprisingly fresh with very little sleep…must be the adrenaline.  

I still don’t mentally think that this is an expedition, I am just on autopilot at the moment.  I think it will hit a lot more once I get to base camp.