Gilian Lee's Mountaineering Adventures
This blog is about my personal adventure to try to climb the top 14x8000m mountains in the world without supplemental oxygen or drugs. It has been a goal since leaving university.
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Sunday 7 July 2019
Everest 2019 summary finally completed
Saturday 19 January 2019
2018 Tassie MTB trip (Blue Derby and Mt Wellington North South Track)
https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/p.html
Wednesday 10 October 2018
Nepali helicopter rescue scam
Tuesday 9 October 2018
Everest 2018 (Unsuccessful) summary finally posted
Tuesday 25 September 2018
Review -Archer Components D1X wireless MTB shifter
Saturday 17 March 2018
Everest 2017 diary finally up on blog.
Tuesday 4 April 2017
A bit of humour -How to tolerate idiots on a mountain (undergoing development)
I have a plan…seriously! One of the toughest things about an expedition is tolerating idiots. It is sadly unavoidable. After a few expeditions I have continued to invest some serious thinking on this topic.
You can always pick them out from a crowd:
a) The ultimate show-off who knows everything and gives you advice even if you don’t want it. They are the ones that tell you how awesome they are and how they are on TED Talks.
b) The ones that have zero experience and have never even walked with crampons, who will learn on the mountain, and rely 100% on the “experienced” sherpa that have claimed to have summited numerous times.
c) The ‘firsts’ or something like that. Those that are trying to prove something based on a criteria that they have defined to be the best.
Here are a few strategies I was mulling over:
1) Mitigate by customising your own team. An expensive option.
2) Avoid the offenders. Sadly this rarely works. Better to confront and get it over with. The reality is that some people just do not gel…and I gel with very few people because I cannot tolerate stupidity.
3) When alone on a mountain, cut the rope on them! This can be highly effective but may have some “ethical” and “legal” concerns. But what happens on the mountain, stays on the mountain 😉.
I would recommend strategy 1 and 2 for the less courageous, and only use option 3 if you are at the end of your tether, or if you run into an annoying Icelandic, then cut the rope immediately!
I do have to say that there is satisfaction when a less than mediocre person such as myself summits before a ‘pro’ (a). What does it really say about them? A bit of humility goes a long way. Oh, I am the type of person that will let them know all about it! 😆
As for those that put their lives in other people’s hands (b), I have absolutely nil sympathy for you if it goes belly up. There is ‘stupidity’ and then there is “EPIC STUPIDITY”.
Category c people are a lot of fun! I love putting them in their place. The true ‘firsts’ are only those that actually were the first to summit. The rest is just self glorifying BS. E.g. Mt Everest is Hillary and Norgay as the first summiters, and Reinhold Messner for the ‘pure’ way he did it (and he has great hair!).
Sunday 15 January 2017
Review -Sony A7R camera with Sony Sonnar T* FE 35mm f/2.8 ZA lens
Tuesday 3 January 2017
Review -ONA Presidio Leather Sling Strap (Antique Cognac colour) and Peak Design CapturePro setup
Sunday 23 October 2016
Staying motivated
Similar to purchasing mountaineering equipment, you too need to spend time getting the correct house cleaning equipment...it could be a matter of life or death. The wrong vacuum cleaner will make your life that much more difficult and you lose focus. This is from experience. My Dyson vac just wasn't 'motivating' me so I sold it. I am just waiting for my Miele and I can't wait for it to be delivered and then working out with it :-) See, a new vac can be motivational.
Now, how can I make dish washing into an exercise? Wrist curls?
It is a boring Sunday.
Wednesday 17 August 2016
The BS categories to mountaineering
In Broad Peak I hear people say they were ‘soloing’ but in reality they were being supported. What a load of BS. I only saw one team (of 2 people) truly ‘solo’, and they were the Slovenians that summited BP…but even that is not ‘soloing’ as they were a pair of climbers…but I digress. They did not use fixed lines, did not use the established route (for some of it) and did their own carrying. These guys were honourable and earned my respect (but they technically were not soloing).
This raises the question of all the other BS self-proclaimed titles…and I am calling you all out! Cut the crap and be honest with yourself and the public. The simplest categories are (table below):
No Supplemental O2
|
With Supplemental O2
| |
Supported
|
(A) eg. Most of my climbing will be in this space)
|
(C) eg. Majority of climbers on Everest Sth Side expeditions
|
Unsupported
|
(B) eg. Slovenians on BP
|
(D) Not many people in this space that I know of
|
The first categorisation is in regard to the use of supplemental O2 or not. Very simple. If you consume supplemental O2 from BC-Summit-BC (the measure of summit success) then it would be defied as ‘With Supplemental O2’. This is aligned with what most people recognise as a successful summit climb.
A person can ‘gas’ themselves before/after a BC-Summit-BC climb, but so as long as they do not do it during BC-Summit-BC climb cycle, they can by categorised as ‘No Supplemental O2’. Simple to understand and accept.
Now, for the controversial categorisation of ‘Supported/Unsupported’. Whether you agree or not, this is simply what the true definitions of the words are.
‘Supported’ is where any form of external service or infrastructure has been used.
Includes:
-Use of fixed lines.
-Use of human service (Sherpa/HAP/Other human).
Excludes:
-Base camp services (not part of the climbing cycle BC-Summit-BC.
-Existing route/direction/trail breaking etc as there may be only one feasible route.
Many may not like the categorisations, but this is one opinion that provides true definitional clarity without subjective free-licence with ‘solo’/’alpine style’ and other definitions that have been bastardised to such an extent that it is truly meaningless. Too many have claimed to be ‘solo’ when they are not.
When I saw the Broad Peak Slovenians do their thing, I recognised that their efforts were being undermined by others who claimed the same thing. To these Slovenians I give you credit and these definitions, to honour your achievements. To everybody else, use at your discretion but please cut the BS/lies.
I for one know that I would be in the table cell A (Supported/No Supplemental O2) and I know that many other mountaineers who claimed to be ‘Unsupported’/’Solo’ would be in the same table cell A. Only a handful of highly skilled (or crazy J) individuals would be in table cell B.
Be honest with yourself (if you can). I will no longer use the terms ‘solo’.
How to go to the toilet –SERIOUSLY!
Monday 15 August 2016
Sunday 17 April 2016
Review -Hotronics FootWarmer S4 Custom insole kit
Thursday 14 April 2016
Update Thurs 14 April – Best wishes, expedition concerns and general news.
I worked out that I am subconsciously been walking on my right foot without rolling onto the big toe, as the frostbite nerve damage is still healing. It felt like a normal walk. I am now consciously rolling onto the toe to make sure I get it well tested before I leave on my expedition. I think a small jog will do it good.
Sunday 10 April 2016
A man that I admire (that I have never met)
Thursday 24 March 2016
Frostbite and Broad Peak training update 24 March 2016
Saturday 13 February 2016
Frostbite update 13 February 2016
Friday 29 January 2016
Protecting against sun damage (protecting your lips)
I'm going to focus on looking after your lips here. Bad lips = no kissing...but given the ratio of males to females on an expedition, kissing is probably not a good idea for a heterosexual male :-P
It is difficult to cover your mouth from the sun (and reflected sunlight from glaciers) when you are moving as you need to breath efficiently when climbing a mountain. When you cover your mouth, the covering will eventually become wet from the breath, and thus hamper breathing.
Some people think that using high UV lip protection/balm is enough (similar to sunscreen for skin), but the reality is that constant exposure goes through that protection like it is not even there. In a week or so your lips may become ulcerated...very painful and hampers drinking and eating. You need to protect and repair.
SM33 is good for cleaning the damaged lips but surprisingly does not help with the healing.
My experience with having my lower lip entirely ulcerated caused me great concern on Manaslu. Then my friend Victor Rimac handed me two silver aluminium satchels which contained a white buttery paste. He told me that it was 100% cacao and that it would do wonders in repairing my ulcerated lip...in 3 days! I thought he was talking rubbish as it would have been a magical cure.
I gave it a try by liberally covering my entire lip with the paste. The paste smelt like chocolate (intoxicating...I want chocolate please) and melted upon contacting my warm lips. I continued to apply it over 3 days to make sure there was always good coverage. I was shocked that within 3 days most of the ulcerated lip had healed! On the 4th day it had completely healed!
Victor was a lifesaver.
I learnt that cacao is very good for looking after your lips and good for repairing them when ulcerated. The problem now is to find more of that 'magic stuff' as I cannot find that 'medical grade' cacao in Australia. Since it was 100% cacao, I am going to try some 100% cacao butter to see if it would have the same effect. I suspect so as it is the same ingredient. Now...I just have to deliberately cause an ulcer to test it out :-(
Friday 22 January 2016
Broad Peak 2016 expedition details/progress
Saturday 2 January 2016
Frostbite update 2 January 2016
Also, from the pics, it looks like the nail is finally falling off (or more likely growing out). A good sign but horrible feeling.
Wednesday 30 December 2015
Review -The North Face Inferno -29C Sleeping Bag
Monday 21 December 2015
2016 climbing plans
The sad fuel shortage situation in Nepal definitely will make it a no-go region for me. How can I go climbing there when people have no fuel to survive? Getting around would be a nightmare, let alone a supported expedition. My guess is that the situation will not be resolved by April 2016. It would also be too late for interested climbers to confirm plans with so much uncertainty.
The Tibet side is most likely the best choice, or Pakistan.
I am currently looking to climb in Pakistan in June. 2016. I haven't decided yet if I will try for GI+GII or do a cheaper Broad Peak. I am probably leaning towards Broad Peak to slowly get me back into the swing of things. Then maybe in Nepal Autumn do Cho Oyu (if I did not do it in April) or Shishapangma.
Frostbite update 21 December 2015
I have started carefully rolling onto the big toe so that I can get the feeling of walking normally (not the very tip of the toe where the scab is located). The nerves are still going 'haywire' as that will take the longest to heal. It is very numb yet sensitive. Horrible feeling. My revised guess is that it will take another month for the scab at the tip to fall off but it will take probably 2mths for the stuff under the nail to disappear. Hoping the nerves heal well.
Wednesday 9 December 2015
Frostbite update 9 December 2015
I can see a separation of the nail from the nail bed (fine line appearing)...so it looks like the toenail will fall off. I just wish it fell off quickly! I cannot get back into training when this is taking forever to heal.
It looks like I will have to skip the Nepal Spring climbing season. My guess is that it would be completely healed by end February. That only leaves 1mth of hard aerobic training to make it for Spring climbing...that is not possible with full-time work, and, the body will not be in top shape after such a long lay-off.
My plans are being messed up.
Thursday 26 November 2015
Frostbite update 26 Nov 2015
It can take up to 2mths for the dead tissue to fall off and for the new tissue underneath to grow...I'm hoping it will only be another month but this is an unknown. Nobody can set a time. The nerves may recover at the tip but that will take a long time. Not so good for climbing :-(
The best thing about coming back from an expedition is that you get to go back to work...because you can start using your brain again. Expeditions can be quite boring. One needs to really test the ol' noggin...still going strong :-)
Thursday 5 November 2015
Dropping my beautiful LML NV 150 Star 2 scooter
Lucky I had washed off the speed as I did not have a motorcycle jacket, pants or a boot on my right toe (due to frostbite I cannot wear shoe on the right foot).
I landed on my right side and hit my right heel on the ground. The helmet had a very light touch on the ground on the visor (scratched visor but no damage to helmet). My goretex jacket and nylon waterproof pants were surprisingly unmarked and the body underneath was not injured. The 'lucky' part was I did not hurt the frostbitten toe even though I landed on the right side.
Sadly the scooter sustained damage:
1) Handlebar twisted and not aligned to front wheel. Hope there is no steering column damage.
2) Front fender edge scratched and slightly warped/bent.
3) Aluminium trimming partly torn off but no paint damage.
4) Right throttle grip slightly scratched. Not worth replacing.
5) The previously lightly scratched rear cowl engine cover has now been properly scratched this time, but not dented.
I've left the scooter at work and will now to get it repaired.
-#1, #2 and #3 will have to be assessed for cost. #1 hopefully is cheap to repair if only alignment is required (few bolts). If steering column damaged then that will hurt more financially. #2 may be cheap if I bend the fender metal and roughly align. I can live with it not being perfect as it is an 'classic' scoot...gives it character? #3 should be cheap to repair as the underlying metal base was not bent or damaged, just replace the aluminium strip.
-#5 would cost heaps to properly repair but a cheaper buff and paint would cost much less and fall within my budget.
The scooter is now going to be a dry weather commuter. It loses it too quickly in the wet. The last time I rode a motorcycle in 2006-7 I never dropped the bike even in wet weather. This is the first time I have dropped a bike. Unlikely to be my last (that is why I am not getting the scooter repaired pristinely).
Now, to buy some motorcycle protective gear in preparation for when I can ride the scooter again.
Tuesday 3 November 2015
Frostbite update
"He said that it's going well. The toe seems like mine after the freezing of 2006."
"Slowly the dead skin will come off and there will be new skin under. Likely the same will happen to the nail."
"The doctor says that the frostbite did not affect the bone."
-that's what I like to hear!
"You must not pull the skin and cause bleeding. When the skin comes off, cut only the dead skin with a scissors or ask a doctor to do it.
You have to have patience, the death skin will come off alone."
-My bad, just wanted to have a nicer looking toe ;-)
Some good news for now. I revisit my local specialist on 25 Nov and hopefully it is just a simple tick and go.
Friday 30 October 2015
What Grade1/low 2 (maybe) frostbite looks like
-My right thumb tip is effectively healed (no dead tissue but sensitive and numb at the tip of the thumb).
-The remaining toes on the right foot are still very numb but I have regained control and there is improvement in feeling/sensations (right toes also have nil dead tissue as shown in the photos).
Thursday 15 October 2015
Tent sailing away
Well, I was sleeping at C2 by myself and it was a very blustery night. The gusts were vicious all night long. I think I was the only person in C2 that night.
I was sleeping in the Amical TNF 3P tent (thanks Dominic for letting me/Dawa stay there) and looking after the tent…lucky I was there (read further along). It was a poor sleep due to the wind that would be severely pressing onto the poles. Lucky Amical staff knew how to pitch a tent up properly staking out the guy lines. The guy lines are critical in windy conditions and they were taut lines.
Well, many other sherpas are not as good at pitching tents as Amical…yes Seven Summit Treks (SST) – I’m point you guys out. At approx. 2:00am in the morning the Amical tent ‘felt’ strange and I could see a shadow on the outside of the tent (towards the back door). It felt like the tent was being pulled from the mountain! I could hear some fluttering. I then unzipped the rear tent door and peeked outside, to then have an external tent hit me in the face! I peered left and saw that another 3person Yak Mountain tent (from SST) had been entangled with the Amical tent that I was in. The pole of the other tent had pierced the Amical fly at the top and the guy lines were tangled, which stopped the SST tent from being blown away.
I immediately grabbed the still-erected/’pitched’ tent that was acting like a huge sail on top of the Amical tent. I waited for the gusts to settle down (a lull) and quickly threw on my boots and down jacket…I was sleeping in my Gore-Tex bib pants so it was pretty quick to get out. It was still windy and I separated the SST tent from the Amical tent…but I could not untangle the guy lines. I used my ice axe and staked the SST tent down in the heavy wind conditions. This was the best I could do in the conditions. There was a lot of profanity as all this was being done.
When morning came, I heard a Sherpa coming towards the Amical tent. He pointed out the SST tent. Apparently the SST tent had broken free of the ice axe and was pulling on the Amical tent. The winds had died down, but still present. I then had to go back out and separate the SST inner with its flysheet, unpitch/dismantle the SST tent by removing its poles and then lay everything flat and stake them to stop them from flying away. The SST flysheet had its guy lines still entangled but I would leave that for the SST team to deal with when they arrived into C2 later that day.
There was no damage to the SST tent but the Amical tent had been pierced. I used some Leukotape to try to patch the Amical piercing but it will not hold for long.
Summation:
1) Sherpas need to learn to pitch tents better. Guy lines are critical to tent stabilisation in windy conditions and they need to be taut (static strength). The more you stake out a tent the stronger it will be.
2) I had to save the SST tent as they had clients coming up that day. If I did not, they would have been severely impacted with not enough tents at that time for the arriving team. You owe me one SST!
3) Amical was lucky I was sleeping in their tent…as the SST tent that was acting as a big sail would have pulled both tents off the mountain during that gusty night. We are even as you let me use your tent ;-)
Tuesday 13 October 2015
Review -Goal Zero Sherpa 100 and Nomad 20 solar panel
Philosophical view on life
Vascular specialist update on frostbite.
3) Nail may fall off but if nail bed is undamaged, everything grows back. Growth may be a little wonky if nail bed is unevenly damaged.
4) Only after 2 will he know if there is bone damage. Bone damage will most likely mean half of toe is removed surgically.
5) Best case scenario is that 2 occurs and no bone damage. This means tissue will regrow underneath. Toe may be a few mm shorter. Tip of toe will be scar tissue and no nerves (no feeling).
6) Taking aspirin to improve blood flow in affected area.
Thursday 27 August 2015
Less than genuine advertising.
Wednesday 19 August 2015
Who do you trust in the mountaineering business world?
Tuesday 18 August 2015
Expedition toilet etiquette
Here is a picture of a typical asian toilet.
Note how it has placement for your feet on either side of the bowl. This is where you put your feet.
Note the hole that is closer to one end of the bowl. This is the bottom end...you face away from the bottom end.
Pretty simple so far. Now, when you go on an expedition, the hardworking sherpas usually set up a toilet using large rocks to create something identical (with a tent-like enclosure for privacy). This setup has parallel foot placements. This is where you put your feet. You either have a drum barrel in substitution of a bowl or your waste goes straight into the ground (depends on your expedition company).
Now, that isn't difficult at all to comprehend...but there is generally one idiot that does not use it properly and thus causes a real hygiene issue. There is generally an idiot that squats with both feet on one side of the foot placement, and thus when they do their business, they end up leaving some waste on the other foot placement! This is very inconsiderate and pisses everyone off. The poor sherpa/staff then have to clean it up.
If you are one such person that has no common sense, and you have read this blog, then please be considerate to your sherpas and fellow climbers.
In my cancelled Everest+Lhotse expedition, some idiot did this and the poor sherpas had to clean it up 3 times from recollection. It came down to 'covert' monitoring by sherpas after use to try to catch the culprit. Actions like this causes serious disease and sickness and requires immediate attention.
Don't be that person!