For those that do not know, there is a big problem with the dodgy rescue practices in Nepal. Here are a couple of articles highlighting the scams impacting the affordability of rescue services in Nepal:
This has been going on for a long time and is unlikely to be resolved. You just cannot rely on the Nepali government to address the issue. The Nepali government cannot even ensure that their own Liaison Officers (LO) assigned to expeditions show up for work. If they cannot even get this LO issue right, then clearly they will have zero hope of fixing this complex issue. It is up to honest clients and the rescue/insurance companies to stamp this out.
From my personal experience, Global Rescue has been fantastic. I used Global Rescue when I was helicoptered out of Manaslu base camp after suffering from frostbite on toes. I also talked to them in 2017 at Camp 2 at Everest when I suffered frostbite on the fingers and signs of HACE onset (nil rescue heli the second time around -I paid for my own heli taxi service).
Even at the hospital CIWEC, the Dr did not know how long I needed to stay after being brought down from Manaslu base camp. I chose to check myself out of hospital very quickly as I knew that there was no reason for me to stay when they couldn't do any more. This was the first sign that there was something not right. If Drs do not know how to discharge you, then you have a big problem. In Australia, hospitals would be happy to discharge you at the very first instance that nil care provision is required –the way it should be.
My concern is that too many people take-the-piss out of rescue services. I have witnessed, and heard of stories of fraudulent 'rescues'. I heard that a Romanian mountaineer on Dhaulagiri once couldn't be bothered walking down a mountain during acclimatisation, so he got a heli rescue down, but then went back up for a summit attempt when the weather window opened up. This was second-hand conversation. If you pay for your own heli down the mountain, then that is not a problem, but when you use the rescue service to get down, and then go back up for a summit attempt, then there is a very good reason to make you pay for the initial rescue.
Rarely do people need to be rescued that fast particularly if you are not an idiot. You should be prepared with good communications throughout your expedition/trip so that rescue services know when trouble is starting to set in.
When you make Everest a tourist trip then this is what happens. For my instances with Global Rescue, I always made sure that onset of problems were communicated through to Global Rescue early, or through the expedition support. Only when I think that I am absolutely poo pooed (about to die) or would cause much physical damage (frostbite/HACE) will I call Global Rescue. It is a rescue service afterall, not a taxi!
If one wants good affordable rescue service coverage, one has to support the rescue business, and to make sure that they are not being ripped-off. I for one need the services of reputable rescue companies (ie. Global Rescue), and when these businesses are being ripped off by dodgy people/operators, then my premiums sky rocket.
To be honest, heli rescue should not even be offered to trekkers. Plain and simple. There is only one solution and that is to descend. Simple. Maybe take an aspirin? How stupid does one need to be to trust the Nepali ‘guide’? Most client travellers are from say 1stor 2nd world countries…but you put your life in the hands of a 3rd world country educated guide that you know nothing about, except that he has walked the route. If you seriously are that stupid then Darwinism really should apply. People need to toughen up. A light headache is not altitude sickness. You would be surprised how much punishment your body can take. The body can take heaps of punishment. When people say they ‘nearly died’, then I laugh when it is not related to avy/landslides, crevasse falls/falls or something like that. Even I can be melodramatic at times when the poo hits the fan and emotions are high.
What you need to do if you trek/expedition in Nepal/Tibet/Pakistan++:
1) Ensure that you personally have communications with Global Rescue when problems arise (or whichever rescue service you are using).
2) That you have communication with another source that has access to Global Rescue.
3) Be true to yourself when assessing your own condition. Drs are overly cautious...it is the nature of their job. A Dr would rarely advise you to do a 8000m mountain, yet here we are. If you want perfect health and zero risk then go fishing, play golf or tennis instead (if you want to be a cupcake then do not go trekking where ‘altitude’ could be a concern). If you want to 'live' then come and have a chat with me ;-)
4) Understand how to ascend (slowly) and do not take the word of the guide (unless your guide is truly good). Know your body and listen to it. The difficult thing is finding your limits…without putting yourself at real risk (trial and error is sadly the only way). Guides are overly cautious as well. It sounds ‘extreme’ when you are advised that you are suffering from altitude sickness…you must be extreme at 5000m :-D.
5) Trekkers – altitude is rarely an issue if you plan and read up on ascending rates. Do not exert excessively as it is more difficult to recover at altitude. That noted, 5000m is not high!
6) Take it slowly and don’t be stupid – is it worth taking a dangerous shortcut pass to save a mere 15mins?
7) You need to hydrate constantly as dehydration is the easiest way to invite altitude sickness. This is from experience. Dehydration is a real killer as the rest of the body starts to shut down very quickly, and it takes a long time to get rehydrated properly. It really messes with your mental state.
8) Do not walk in the heat of the day! This may be unavoidable given the long trekking days. You should commence your day very early and try to finish by 2pm or so. This gives you time to rest, and prep physically and mentally for the next day. If it is a long day, then leave earlier.
9) This last point is contentious. Avoid taking medication for altitude. I once tried taking Diamox at the start of my Aconcagua expedition and stopped taking it at a higher altitude, just to see if it made a difference. My head nearly exploded. When I tried to get back onto it, it was ineffective. What I am saying is that reliance on medication can mask the symptoms of what your body is really doing. If you need medication, then it means it is time to go down. I don’t climb with any performance enhancing altitude medication (nil medication for me). Most base camps are like pharmaceutical companies! Drugs everywhere…and everyone is an expert in how these things work. Ha, yeah, right. If you are going to use drugs, then make sure you have ample reserves as you could die if you rely on it and it runs out. I have heard that Viagra and other similar drugs are good for mountaineering…but I would think that this would be a negative as the mountain is full of males…unless you are lucky.
10) Oh, I almost forgot, for all expeditioners that have summited, please do not forget to write a book, or movie about your amazing O2 supported summit, and do the motivational speaker rounds. I genuinely want to know all about it. I have so much more to learn. This would be a riveting read/watch/presentation. ;-)
What Global Rescue/Insurance companies need to do (if they are not doing it already):
-As part of their post rescue assessment, review with the client the circumstances of the rescue and how it was performed. This will determine the proportion of the costs that Global Rescue needs to pay. I know that Global Rescue does undertake vetting to identify BS claimants. Also, dodgy Drs will write anything to get a claim for the client (and then they get paid).
-Should insurance companies come together and pool their own resources? Tough business model but at least they are getting smarter by blacklisting dodgy companies and closely vetting claims.
-Take a hard line on insuring trekkers. Either do not insure heli or premium the living daylights out of them.
-Take a hard line on expeditioners on BS claims…but please keep the premiums low :-). For expeditioners it is easy to assess their claim for rescue –the evidence is genuinely pretty clear (you can see it).
-Work with a few reputable companies and undertake significant vetting on them. Good companies will succeed and dodgy ones will hopefully go out of business. Focus on the few to limit your resource base and if they are caught, then immediate blacklist the individuals (company phoenix is easy and need to target the individuals instead).
Dodgy people/businesses in any industry need to be vetted out. They end up hurting the community and are dangerous.
Rant over – Gil over and out.
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