Took more photos than I thought.

Mistake...total photos taken was 10,290. I took a lot more on my smartphone than I had thought.

My estimate was out by 900.

So many pictures!

I have a problem! 

I take way too many photos when I go on holiday.

My recent holidays resulted 9,300 pictures on the new camera. Not to mention the couple of hundred taken on the smartphone. 

Now that I am home, it will take time to back them up from the smartphone to my various network storage systems. Ouch.

Travelling is easy.

23hrs just in the airport-to-airport phase. Then add in the transportation to/from the airport. 

Pfft...what is a measly 24hrs+ in travel? Do it in my sleep. 🫠

2024 Oct-Turkey Wed 23. Istanbul (Final day)

I only had one thing left that I wanted to do in Istanbul. That was to check out the Anatolian side again, particularly Kadiköy. I am so happy that I did not miss this area. 

This will be my last entry for a while...until my next trip in mid Dec (to India)...or if something exciting happens.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-wed-23-istanbul-final.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Turkey Tue 22. Eskisehir

Eskisehir is a town that has a genuine, normal, living feel. It doesn't have any notable historical features. It just has great architecture that fits nicely. A well planned town.

A street photographer's paradise. 

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-tue-22-eskisehir.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Turkey Mon 21. Ankara

Final day in Ankara. Visited the Anadolu Medeniyetleri Müzesi and the mandatory Anıtkabir (Atatürk's Mausoleum).

Atatürk led the groundwork for Turkey to be what it is today.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-mon-21-ankara.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Turkey Sun 20. Cappadocia/Ankara

We left the hotel for Ankara at 9:00 am. As we left Cappadocia, we stopped at Bogazkale - Hattusha UNESCO Archaeological Site.

This is a really well restored site. The Turkish keep digging up archaeological sites...because it has so much history.

Enjoying the last five days of the Turkey tour. I have had a long holiday so far. I can feel myself being drained. Generally, 2 months of holidays are enough. It really depends on the make-up of the group.

It will be depressing when I review the photos and transfer it to the NAS. These are just snippets of time. 

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-sun-20-cappadociaankara.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Turkey Sat 19. Cappadocia

I had a normal day tour to visit the sites around Cappadocia. Got the tourist bug out of my system.

This is definitely a must vist place. I could have done with maybe two more day to do the local walks/hikes that surround the place.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-sat-19-cappadocia.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Turkey Fri 18. Cappadocia

You can not take a bad picture in Göreme (Cappadocia region).

I have been very impressed by how they have integrated the tourism buildings into the environment. When you have a town/village that has existed over a long time, it would be a challenge to grow with the historical artefacts and natural features.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-fri-18-cappadocia.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Turkey Thu 17. Konya

7.5hrs of total transportation from Antalya to Cappadocia (hotel to hotel).

This place is small, and for us, it is more of a transit through to Cappadocia.

However, there are mosques to visit

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-thu-17-konya.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Turkey Wed 16. Antalya

Seeing two waterfalls in Antalya was the best part of the day (Dudan Falls Upper and Lower).

A simple boat cruise to view the Dudan Falls (lower) flow into the sea was the finish of the day.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-wed-16-antalya.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Turkey Tue 15. Antalya

The city (main tourist area) is not as large as I had first thought. You can see most of the place in half a day. I just did a self-exploring afternoon.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-tue-15-antalya.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Turkey Mon 14. Kekova

Made our way down to Kaleucagiz. This is where we left for our afternoon sailing to Kekova Island and the various swimming locations.

The water was warm = swim, swim, and more swimming.

This was the last opportunity to swim on the trip in the ocean. It is time to say farewell to the Mediterranean Sea.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-mon-14-kekova.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Turkey Sun 13. Fethiye

I enjoyed a good swim at Oludeniz and a nice stroll along the promenade in Fethiye. 

The Mediterranean Sea was not overly salty, and the clear waters were a comfortable temperature. 

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-sun-13-fethiye.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Turkey Sat 12. Pamukkale

Pamukkale is a tiny town with one significant feature...the Hierapolis Pamukkale with its natural travertine limestone terraces.

A lot to be done in 6-7hrs to see everything and to get your fill.

I took so many pictures as I walked along. Every corner/angle begged for a snap.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-sat-12-pamukkale.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Turkey Fri 11. Selcuk

I nearly picked up a wife 😉...

You're got to love the hard-sell tactics.

Visited the Greek structures and surrounding Selcuk.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-fri-11-selcuk.html?m=1

2024 2024 Oct-Turkey Thu 10. Selcuk

A 7.5hr transportation day. A bit too long to be stuck on a coach bus.

Arrived into Selcuk hotel by 8pm. Quite late. I had a quick shower, and off I go to do some night sightseeing. I even had time to sneak in a swim in the hotel warm swimming pool. 

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-2024-oct-turkey-thu-10-selcuk.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Turkey Wed 9. Gallipoli-Canakkale

Gallipoli and Canakkale done. Great mix of history and a fantastic little town.

I had one of my best fish sandwiches (2x)! Stuff the diet!

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-wed-9-gallipoli-canakale.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Turkey Tue 8. Istanbul day 3

I got to visit all the remaining places on my list for Istanbul. There are so many happening areas. A lively city indeed.

I will have one final afternoon of Istanbul at the end of my journey. That day, I can take it easy and not have to rush anything. 

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-tue-8-istanbul-day-3.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Turkey Mon 7. Istanbul day 2

Istanbul Asian side is definitely worth a visit. See the Bosphorus from a different angle. 

I always enjoy night photography as there are way less people floating around. 

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-mon-7-istanbul-day-2.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Turkey Sun 6. Istanbul

A huge day getting to Istanbul, slowly waiting for the public transport system to work. 

It is a huge city where every corner is a piece of history. I saw so much of the old town areas and the busy Karakoy at night.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-turkey-sun-6-istanbul.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Croatia Sat 5. Split (Final Croatia)

Split has been completely done and dusted. The island hopping was the best part. 

Croatia is just over touristed. There is so much opportunity for other areas to develop. 

Split is simply prime tourism.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-croatia-sat-5-split-final.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Croatia Fri 4. Split (Islands)

A big day island hopping.

Visited:

-Milna.

-Palmizana.

-Hvar.

-Blue Lagoon. 

-Trogir.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-croatia-fri-4-split-islands.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Croatia Thu 3. Split (Plitvice Lakes)

A very long day trip to Plitvice Lakes NP. 

It was a nice place to visit, except that our day was pouring with rain. An amazing natural wonder.

There are many paths/trails, so if visiting, it may be better to stay near the lakes to spend a couple of days there without the 4hr (each way) commuting from/to Split. 

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-croatia-thu-3-split-plitvice.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Croatia Wed 2. Dubrovnik to Split

Seeing final bits of Dubrovnik before I left for Split.

Lucky I did an extra walk around. There were things I would have regretted not seeing.

Dubrovnik is hectic. Best to find a quiet beach to swim and relax after visiting the old town and its wall.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-oct-croatia-wed-2-dubrovnik-to.html?m=1

2024 Oct-Croatia Tue 1. Dubrovnik (Final tour day)

Last day of the tour. It was a great tour.

Finishing in Dubrovnik. Sadly, it means goodbye to the well-gelled group. 

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/2024/10/2024-oct-croatia-tue-1-dubrovnik-final.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Montenegro Mon 30. Kotor

Kotor has some great hiking trails but the real activity is closer to the water.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-montenegro-mon-30-kotor.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Montenegro Sun 29. Kotor

A long transfer day from Tirana to Kotor, Montenegro. 

This results with a lot of night photography. 

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-montenegro-sun-29-kotor.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Albania Sat 28. Tirana/Kruja

We visited Kruja (castle) in the morning. Then, a basic stroll through Tirana to relax and to see if there was anything that I may have missed that I would have regretted. 

In the evening, I tried something new...shooting guns! It's a lot of fun.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-albania-sat-28-tiranakruja.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Albania Fri 27. Tirana

From the poo stench of Durres to the lively city of Tirana.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-albania-fri-27-tirana.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Albania Thu 26. Berat

Struga (North Macedonia) and Berat (Albania) are great little places to check out. 

Struga has amazing clear draining from Lake Ohrid, and the waterway setup is so polished.

Berat has a great old town and laneways. Also a good hill to walk up.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-albania-thu-26-berat.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Nth Macedonia Wed 25. Lake Ohrid

A relaxing day on the lake and walking the town. Then it was refreshing to be swimming in a clean lake.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-nth-macedonia-wed-25-lake-ohrid.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Nth Macedonia Tue 24. Lake Ohrid

Lake Ohrid is a fantastic lakeside holiday location. Sometimes, it reminds me of Lake Como with the clear waters and no beaches.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-nth-macedonia-tue-24-lake-ohrid.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Nth Macedonia Mon 23. Prizren and Pristina (Kosovo)

Keeping the politics aside, Kosovo rocks!

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-nth-macedonia-mon-23-prizren.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Nth Macedonia Sun 22. Skopje/Matka Canyon

First day out with the new tour group. Everyone appears to be normal (myself included).

Visited Matka Canyon. Great place. 

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-nth-macedonia-sun-22.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Nth Macedonia Sat 21. Skopje

A great hiking day in Skopje. Went up Mt Vodno. Best exercise I have had in over 2 weeks. The views from above were excellent. Skopje is so much bigger than just the main tourist zone.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-nth-macedonia-sat-21-skopje.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Nth Macedonia Fri 20. Skopje

Another great day in Skopje. I thought I had seen most of the interesting places but I was sorely mistaken. I nearly missed the Bit Pazar. It's such a huge market.

The clouds cleared, and I saw the top of Mt Vodno. I will head up there tomorrow. 

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-nth-macedonia-fri-20-skopje.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Nth Macedonia Thu 19. Skopje

What an amazing place Skopje is.

It is full of surprises. 

One of the best tourist days so far.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-nth-macedonia-thu-19-skopje.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Georgia Wed 18. Tbilisi

The last day in Georgia. Great place to spend a couple of days.

Got to see everything in Tbilisi that I had on my agenda. 

Ready to fly out from midnight to Skopje, North Macedonia. 

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-georgia-wed-18-tbilisi.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Georgia Tue 17. Gudauri to Tbilisi

Left Gudauri and headed over to Tbilisi. 

There is a lot to see in Tbilisi. It would full up 2 days nicely, if you power walk everywhere. Ideally, you would only stay in Tbilisi for 3 days max.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-georgia-tue-17-gudauri-to.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Georgia Mon 16. Gudauri/Stepantsminda

The best tour day so far.

Lot of things to see and laughter. Taking the piss (with good intentions) was had by all.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-georgia-mon-16.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Georgia Sun 15. Gudauri

A long day of driving. 

Highlight was the Tsinandali Estate. 

The natural mountains to Gudauri was also cool.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-georgia-sun-15-gudauri.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Georgia Sat 14. Telavi and Gremi

In Georgia! A big change from Azerbaijan. 

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-georgia-sat-14-telavi-and-gremi.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Azerbaijan Fri 13 Sep. Sheki

A very light day. 

Visited:

The Palace of Shaki Khan's.

Kish-Albanian Church. 

Kish-Village Visit. This was just a drive through the hilly village to get to the church.

https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/2024-sep-azerbaijan-fri-13-sep-sheki.html?m=1

2024 Sep-Azerbaijan Thu 12 Sep. Sheki (Nij - Udin village visit)

Left the mountains and headed to Sheki. I finally got to swim, at the hotel pool.

A lot of bus shuttle travel. Good to see how the non-Baku regional people live. They live like everyone else throughout the world. 

The more you travel the more you see the similarities. 

Daily diary entry on the page on the right.

2024 Sep-Azerbaijan Wed 11 Sep. Caucasus Mountains/Lahij

A transit day with some simple stops.

Chilling in the small village of Lahij. 

The village reminds me of some small Pakistani villages.

As always, pictures and diary entry on the right. 

2024 Sep-Azerbaijan Tue 10 Sep. Qobustan Petroglyphs +Baku Old City

A normal day turned out quite good by the end. Met new people and had a view of someone's life in Baku.

Page available on the trips section.

2024 Sep Sun 8 - Mon 9 Baku

First days in Baku. Eventful. Page available on the trips section.

2024 Sep-Abu Dhabi, UAE. A short stopover

Just on holidays. Sharing a quick stopover in Abu Dhabi, UAE.

That grand mosque is seriously awesome.

Simple travelling is always a positive experience. 

Check the page out on the right.

Everest 2019 summary finally completed

Yeah.  Finally finished writing up the summary.  Details can be found on the Trips/Expeditions section on the right.  I no longer need to tell my story multiple times over.  Do it once and you can then forget about it.

2018 Tassie MTB trip (Blue Derby and Mt Wellington North South Track)

A quick view of the MTB scene in Tasmania on the right trips/expeditions 'menu'.
https://gilianlee.blogspot.com/p/p.html

Nepali helicopter rescue scam

For those that do not know, there is a big problem with the dodgy rescue practices in Nepal. Here are a couple of articles highlighting the scams impacting the affordability of rescue services in Nepal:

-https://www.smh.com.au/world/asia/near-everest-s-slopes-a-helicopter-rescue-fraud-preys-on-trekkers-20180905-p501yj.html

-https://www.worldnomads.com/travel-safety/southern-asia/nepal/nepal-heli-evac-scam

This has been going on for a long time and is unlikely to be resolved. You just cannot rely on the Nepali government to address the issue. The Nepali government cannot even ensure that their own Liaison Officers (LO) assigned to expeditions show up for work. If they cannot even get this LO issue right, then clearly they will have zero hope of fixing this complex issue.  It is up to honest clients and the rescue/insurance companies to stamp this out.

From my personal experience, Global Rescue has been fantastic. I used Global Rescue when I was helicoptered out of Manaslu base camp after suffering from frostbite on toes. I also talked to them in 2017 at Camp 2 at Everest when I suffered frostbite on the fingers and signs of HACE onset (nil rescue heli the second time around -I paid for my own heli taxi service).

Even at the hospital CIWEC, the Dr did not know how long I needed to stay after being brought down from Manaslu base camp. I chose to check myself out of hospital very quickly as I knew that there was no reason for me to stay when they couldn't do any more. This was the first sign that there was something not right. If Drs do not know how to discharge you, then you have a big problem. In Australia, hospitals would be happy to discharge you at the very first instance that nil care provision is required –the way it should be.

My concern is that too many people take-the-piss out of rescue services. I have witnessed, and heard of stories of fraudulent 'rescues'. I heard that a Romanian mountaineer on Dhaulagiri once couldn't be bothered walking down a mountain during acclimatisation, so he got a heli rescue down, but then went back up for a summit attempt when the weather window opened up. This was second-hand conversation. If you pay for your own heli down the mountain, then that is not a problem, but when you use the rescue service to get down, and then go back up for a summit attempt, then there is a very good reason to make you pay for the initial rescue.

Rarely do people need to be rescued that fast particularly if you are not an idiot. You should be prepared with good communications throughout your expedition/trip so that rescue services know when trouble is starting to set in.

When you make Everest a tourist trip then this is what happens. For my instances with Global Rescue, I always made sure that onset of problems were communicated through to Global Rescue early, or through the expedition support. Only when I think that I am absolutely poo pooed (about to die) or would cause much physical damage (frostbite/HACE) will I call Global Rescue. It is a rescue service afterall, not a taxi!

If one wants good affordable rescue service coverage, one has to support the rescue business, and to make sure that they are not being ripped-off. I for one need the services of reputable rescue companies (ie. Global Rescue), and when these businesses are being ripped off by dodgy people/operators, then my premiums sky rocket.

To be honest, heli rescue should not even be offered to trekkers. Plain and simple. There is only one solution and that is to descend. Simple. Maybe take an aspirin? How stupid does one need to be to trust the Nepali ‘guide’? Most client travellers are from say 1^stor 2^nd world countries…but you put your life in the hands of a 3^rd world country educated guide that you know nothing about, except that he has walked the route. If you seriously are that stupid then Darwinism really should apply. People need to toughen up. A light headache is not altitude sickness. You would be surprised how much punishment your body can take. The body can take heaps of punishment. When people say they ‘nearly died’, then I laugh when it is not related to avy/landslides, crevasse falls/falls or something like that. Even I can be melodramatic at times when the poo hits the fan and emotions are high.

What you need to do if you trek/expedition in Nepal/Tibet/Pakistan++:

1) Ensure that you personally have communications with Global Rescue when problems arise (or whichever rescue service you are using).

2) That you have communication with another source that has access to Global Rescue.

3) Be true to yourself when assessing your own condition. Drs are overly cautious...it is the nature of their job. A Dr would rarely advise you to do a 8000m mountain, yet here we are. If you want perfect health and zero risk then go fishing, play golf or tennis instead (if you want to be a cupcake then do not go trekking where ‘altitude’ could be a concern). If you want to 'live' then come and have a chat with me ;-)

4) Understand how to ascend (slowly) and do not take the word of the guide (unless your guide is truly good). Know your body and listen to it. The difficult thing is finding your limits…without putting yourself at real risk (trial and error is sadly the only way). Guides are overly cautious as well. It sounds ‘extreme’ when you are advised that you are suffering from altitude sickness…you must be extreme at 5000m :-D.

5) Trekkers – altitude is rarely an issue if you plan and read up on ascending rates. Do not exert excessively as it is more difficult to recover at altitude. That noted, 5000m is not high!

6) Take it slowly and don’t be stupid – is it worth taking a dangerous shortcut pass to save a mere 15mins?

7) You need to hydrate constantly as dehydration is the easiest way to invite altitude sickness. This is from experience. Dehydration is a real killer as the rest of the body starts to shut down very quickly, and it takes a long time to get rehydrated properly. It really messes with your mental state.

8) Do not walk in the heat of the day! This may be unavoidable given the long trekking days. You should commence your day very early and try to finish by 2pm or so. This gives you time to rest, and prep physically and mentally for the next day. If it is a long day, then leave earlier.

9) This last point is contentious. Avoid taking medication for altitude. I once tried taking Diamox at the start of my Aconcagua expedition and stopped taking it at a higher altitude, just to see if it made a difference. My head nearly exploded. When I tried to get back onto it, it was ineffective. What I am saying is that reliance on medication can mask the symptoms of what your body is really doing. If you need medication, then it means it is time to go down. I don’t climb with any performance enhancing altitude medication (nil medication for me). Most base camps are like pharmaceutical companies! Drugs everywhere…and everyone is an expert in how these things work. Ha, yeah, right. If you are going to use drugs, then make sure you have ample reserves as you could die if you rely on it and it runs out. I have heard that Viagra and other similar drugs are good for mountaineering…but I would think that this would be a negative as the mountain is full of males…unless you are lucky.

10) Oh, I almost forgot, for all expeditioners that have summited, please do not forget to write a book, or movie about your amazing O2 supported summit, and do the motivational speaker rounds. I genuinely want to know all about it. I have so much more to learn. This would be a riveting read/watch/presentation. ;-)

What Global Rescue/Insurance companies need to do (if they are not doing it already):

-As part of their post rescue assessment, review with the client the circumstances of the rescue and how it was performed. This will determine the proportion of the costs that Global Rescue needs to pay. I know that Global Rescue does undertake vetting to identify BS claimants. Also, dodgy Drs will write anything to get a claim for the client (and then they get paid).

-Should insurance companies come together and pool their own resources? Tough business model but at least they are getting smarter by blacklisting dodgy companies and closely vetting claims.

-Take a hard line on insuring trekkers. Either do not insure heli or premium the living daylights out of them.

-Take a hard line on expeditioners on BS claims…but please keep the premiums low :-). For expeditioners it is easy to assess their claim for rescue –the evidence is genuinely pretty clear (you can see it).

-Work with a few reputable companies and undertake significant vetting on them. Good companies will succeed and dodgy ones will hopefully go out of business. Focus on the few to limit your resource base and if they are caught, then immediate blacklist the individuals (company phoenix is easy and need to target the individuals instead).

Dodgy people/businesses in any industry need to be vetted out. They end up hurting the community and are dangerous.

Rant over – Gil over and out.

Everest 2018 (Unsuccessful) summary finally posted

Hard to write up the quick summary...but had to get it done and moved into the brain archive.  Click on the right to get a glimpse of the disappointment.

Review -Archer Components D1X wireless MTB shifter

Review on the right of the amazing Archer Components D1X.

Everest 2017 diary finally up on blog.

On the right hand side is the raw events from my unsuccessful 2017 expedition.  So many things went wrong.  Best to learn from it and leave the past behind.

A bit of humour -How to tolerate idiots on a mountain (undergoing development)

I have a plan…seriously! One of the toughest things about an expedition is tolerating idiots.  It is sadly unavoidable.  After a few expeditions I have continued to invest some serious thinking on this topic.

You can always pick them out from a crowd:

a) The ultimate show-off who knows everything and gives you advice even if you don’t want it.  They are the ones that tell you how awesome they are and how they are on TED Talks.

b) The ones that have zero experience and have never even walked with crampons, who will learn on the mountain, and rely 100% on the “experienced” sherpa that have claimed to have summited numerous times.

c) The ‘firsts’ or something like that.  Those that are trying to prove something based on a criteria that they have defined to be the best.

Here are a few strategies I was mulling over:

1) Mitigate by customising your own team. An expensive option.

2) Avoid the offenders.  Sadly this rarely works.  Better to confront and get it over with.  The reality is that some people just do not gel…and I gel with very few people because I cannot tolerate stupidity.

3) When alone on a mountain, cut the rope on them!  This can be highly effective but may have some “ethical” and “legal” concerns.  But what happens on the mountain, stays on the mountain 😉. 

I would recommend strategy 1 and 2 for the less courageous, and only use option 3 if you are at the end of your tether, or if you run into an annoying Icelandic, then cut the rope immediately!

I do have to say that there is satisfaction when a less than mediocre person such as myself summits before a ‘pro’ (a).  What does it really say about them?  A bit of humility goes a long way.  Oh, I am the type of person that will let them know all about it! 😆

As for those that put their lives in other people’s hands (b), I have absolutely nil sympathy for you if it goes belly up.  There is ‘stupidity’ and then there is “EPIC STUPIDITY”.

Category c people are a lot of fun! I love putting them in their place.  The true ‘firsts’ are only those that actually were the first to summit.  The rest is just self glorifying BS.  E.g. Mt Everest is Hillary and Norgay as the first summiters, and Reinhold Messner for the ‘pure’ way he did it (and he has great hair!). 

Review -Sony A7R camera with Sony Sonnar T* FE 35mm f/2.8 ZA lens

Review on the right.  Is it the right camera for mountaineering?

Review -ONA Presidio Leather Sling Strap (Antique Cognac colour) and Peak Design CapturePro setup

Review on the right.

Staying motivated

I have always seen house cleaning as a great motivator for mountaineering. Seriously. When you are cleaning and tidying you are applying a full range of motion. Yes, you may look a bit dorky in the process, but you get a workout and a clean house, a truly win-win outcome. No need for gym membership.
Similar to purchasing mountaineering equipment, you too need to spend time getting the correct house cleaning equipment...it could be a matter of life or death. The wrong vacuum cleaner will make your life that much more difficult and you lose focus. This is from experience. My Dyson vac just wasn't 'motivating' me so I sold it. I am just waiting for my Miele and I can't wait for it to be delivered and then working out with it :-) See, a new vac can be motivational.
Now, how can I make dish washing into an exercise? Wrist curls?
It is a boring Sunday.

The BS categories to mountaineering

I’ve had enough of the constant abuse and use of mountaineering/climbing terms that try to elevate a mountaineer’s achievements.

In Broad Peak I hear people say they were ‘soloing’ but in reality they were being supported.  What a load of BS.  I only saw one team (of 2 people) truly ‘solo’, and they were the Slovenians that summited BP…but even that is not ‘soloing’ as they were a pair of climbers…but I digress.  They did not use fixed lines, did not use the established route (for some of it) and did their own carrying.  These guys were honourable and earned my respect (but they technically were not soloing).

This raises the question of all the other BS self-proclaimed titles…and I am calling you all out!  Cut the crap and be honest with yourself and the public.  The simplest categories are (table below):

	No Supplemental O2	With Supplemental O2
Supported	(A) eg. Most of my climbing will be in this space)	(C) eg. Majority of climbers on Everest Sth Side expeditions
Unsupported	(B) eg. Slovenians on BP	(D) Not many people in this space that I know of

This table of category results recognises true effort without ambiguous terms being incorrectly used.  It gives credit to those that deserve it. 

The first categorisation is in regard to the use of supplemental O2 or not.  Very simple.  If you consume supplemental O2 from BC-Summit-BC (the measure of summit success) then it would be defied as ‘With Supplemental O2’.  This is aligned with what most people recognise as a successful summit climb.

A person can ‘gas’ themselves before/after a BC-Summit-BC climb, but so as long as they do not do it during BC-Summit-BC climb cycle, they can by categorised as ‘No Supplemental O2’.  Simple to understand and accept.

Now, for the controversial categorisation of ‘Supported/Unsupported’.  Whether you agree or not, this is simply what the true definitions of the words are. 

‘Supported’ is where any form of external service or infrastructure has been used. 

Includes:
-Use of fixed lines.
-Use of human service (Sherpa/HAP/Other human).

Excludes:
-Base camp services (not part of the climbing cycle BC-Summit-BC.
-Existing route/direction/trail breaking etc as there may be only one feasible route.

Many may not like the categorisations, but this is one opinion that provides true definitional clarity without subjective free-licence with ‘solo’/’alpine style’ and other definitions that have been bastardised to such an extent that it is truly meaningless.  Too many have claimed to be ‘solo’ when they are not.

When I saw the Broad Peak Slovenians do their thing, I recognised that their efforts were being undermined by others who claimed the same thing.  To these Slovenians I give you credit and these definitions, to honour your achievements.  To everybody else, use at your discretion but please cut the BS/lies.

I for one know that I would be in the table cell A (Supported/No Supplemental O2) and I know that many other mountaineers who claimed to be ‘Unsupported’/’Solo’ would be in the same table cell A.  Only a handful of highly skilled (or crazy J) individuals would be in table cell B. 

Be honest with yourself (if you can).  I will no longer use the terms ‘solo’.

How to go to the toilet –SERIOUSLY!

One of the difficult things to do on an expedition is to go to the toilet.  It could save you from frostbite!  Let me explain:

1) In base camps it is not so much and issue but you can save yourself from discomfort by building your thigh muscles.  If you do a full squat then you reduce blood flow to your feet.  If you hold this position for too long at cold/high altitude then frostbite to your toes can set in…this is what happened to me on Manaslu!  I felt my right toe go numb while doing a poo on summit night.  Even if you ‘bounce’ you still end up getting some serious leg burn as you have to hold that skiers position for a while.

Tip –Don’t mess around and get done with the business as quickly as possible.

Tip –Light bouncing can relieve pressure but don’t lose your aim.

Tip –At high altitude use real toilet paper as wet wipes have a tendency to freeze, and are cold.

2) Pee bottles are essential.  You never want to go out of the tent in wild weather just to do a pee, particularly if you tent site is precariously pitched.  Some people also use pee bottles as hot water bottles, but if you have no need for the extra warmth, then make sure you pour the bottle out to the outside of the tent instead of leaving it to be disposed of the next morning…as the pee will freeze in the bottle.

3) To do a poo is usually not too much of a hassle if your site is not in a dangerous spot, but if you are wearing a harness, then the struggle begins (where pants have no evacuation sippers).  The most important rule is to never compromise your safety equipment.  You may have to loosen your harness so that you can slip down your pants.  Make sure you don’t loosen too much of your harness!  There is very little modesty when it comes to things like this but if you need to evacuate…so it shall be.

4) I’ve heard of people (not me) taking a poo in the tent vestibule, onto a snow covered shovel, when the outside weather is very bad.  Once finished, they hurl the waste in a pre-determined direction.  The shovel is relatively clean (snow covered) and there is no need to leave the tent.  In such a situation you would want to be ‘very close’ to your tent buddy.

5) I’ve also heard about people digging deep into one end of the tent vestibule for number 2s, which they cover up with snow once finished.  Never tried this before but the previous option 4 sounds better.

6) Common courtesy –if you farts are going to stink then vent the tent.  My experience in Broad Peak with the Icelandic was he did not do this…was he seriously that inconsiderate? 

I believe that most issues come about from the act of pooing rather than peeing.  Depending on your environment the consequences of taking too long (too leisurely) can have some physical impacts.  Learn to do your business quickly and efficiently.  Learn how to manipulate your harness and clothing ‘safely’ to do your number 2s on a rope.

Not many people talk about these things but I am putting it out there so that you have a starting point in how to deal with toilet adventures on the mountain.  There may be heaps of other options so research for yourself.  Pants with front-back zippers or rainbow seats make things a lot easier.

Oh, if you think you have to ‘go’, then ‘go’ early.  You do not want to be rushing things getting prepared.  Take the necessary time to get ready so that you don’t make a mess or put yourself at risk.

Review -Petzl Sirocco

Review on the right.

Review -Black Diamond Guide Gloves

Review on the right.

Review -Mont Austral Pants

Review on the right.

Review -Hotronics FootWarmer S4 Custom insole kit

Review on the right.

Update Thurs 14 April – Best wishes, expedition concerns and general news.

Message chatted with Dawa before he and his clients headed off to climb Mt Makalu (5th highest mountain). Best of luck to all of them. I wish I could have joined them but sadly not possible. I don’t know much about Makalu (besides what I have notionally Googled), but keen to hear about the route difficulty and conditions.

Expedition concerns:

I am getting worried about my Broad Peak expedition as I have heard very little from Summit Climb on the organisation of this expedition. Dan Mazur tells me that it is being organised by their ‘sister office’. I am not having a lot of confidence with this sister office as the communication is next to non-existent.

Dan is off to Everest and good luck to him and his clients.

At this stage, I’m hanging out to hear something from Summit Climb’s sister office as the expedition is still accepting members until 15 May. This is very late as there will be only 1mth before departure. I require confirmation that the expedition proceeds way before then, or I will be pulling out and going to another mountain or logistics company instead. I still need to get the Pakistan entry visa and I don’t like it when things take this long to organise. I still haven’t heard how many will be in the team…and it is now around 2.5mths until expedition departure.

I’ll try to see this Broad Peak expedition through but if it get's cancelled...I'll be ticked for the short notice.

General news:
I worked out that I am subconsciously been walking on my right foot without rolling onto the big toe, as the frostbite nerve damage is still healing. It felt like a normal walk. I am now consciously rolling onto the toe to make sure I get it well tested before I leave on my expedition. I think a small jog will do it good.

My training is going well…so well that my pants don’t fit anymore – my legs are getting stronger and bigger (thighs) through cycling. This is the mass I wanted to build. I do have to make a confession…after being on a wicked healthy diet for 2mths+ I fell to temptation. Last Friday/Saturday/Sunday I pigged myself on 2 pizzas and a family box of KFC. No salad was to be seen anywhere. I felt “urgh” after that binge.

To make up for that indiscretion I have been starving myself of ‘yummy fat’ as much as possible to burn off the excess fat I had just consumed over that weekend. With 2.5mths until I go I cannot afford to have such a binge -only mini binges ;-) .  I think that my strict diet needs to be tempered with the occasional treats to keep me sane.

Now, to start working on losing tummy fat (the never ending battle)…once it’s gone, ladies, please take a ticket and line up by my front door :-O

That’s all the crazy blurting I can do for tonight. Have fun. Be safe. Climb well.

A man that I admire (that I have never met)

Prominent Australian

Philip Nitschke

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Philip_Nitschke

https://exitinternational.net/

In Australia he has been the voice of euthanasia.  Whether you agree or disagree with euthanasia is not the point of this post.

My point is that this man has the courage to fight against the establishment (Australian Government, the Medical Board of Australia (MBA)).  He has fought for the right for people to access information and fought for people to have a choice in how they wish to terminate their life.  Philip Nitschke has sacrificed a career in medicine to follow his belief on this matter.  A big call indeed.  Nitschke fights for your right to have a peaceful assisted death (your choice).

Nothing is scarier than when a Government starts to filter what information one has access to.  Australia claims to be a free and open democracy, but it is no different to authoritarian regimes that restrict what you hear and see (it's just more covert about it).

The MBA should be ashamed of themselves.  They encourage the suffering of the terminally ill.  Their self-righteous approach is no different than any other union that looks after their core business in health.  God forbid if you hurt their business model of providing a terminally ill person with information and a choice...MBA would be 'losing' a client.  The world turns for the worse when self-righteous people play 'god' and dictate what you can do.

My rant is not just about euthanasia...as it is quite easy to knock-yourself-off (jumping off: a building, off a high bridge, in front of a speeding train etc.), it is about people/institutions that want to control you.  Now, 'we' control you in disguise and market it 'for your own good'.  

I've always seen myself as 'temporary' as we all die (no running from the reaper).  If you are religious then you have very little to worry about (as you will meet your maker in the afterworld -a good thing really) and if you are atheist then you appreciate that it 'just ends'.  When I become extinct like the dinosaurs, I hope that I am not suffering and incapable of self-terminating when it happens, otherwise I'll end up being 'tortured' by the Australian Government/MBA in their self-righteous world.

My views are probably more out-there but the principles are the same...right to information and choice.

How do you think you'll 'go' and what choices do you have for the future?  What are you going to do about it?  Food for thought.

*Let me declare that I am pro euthanasia (pro information and pro choice).  

**I am also a member of Exit International.  I have no administrative linkages.  I support their objective and what they are trying to achieve (pro information and pro choice). 

***Americans need not worry...you have access to guns, thus you have greater choice.

Frostbite and Broad Peak training update 24 March 2016

It's been awhile since my last update...but I haven't been sitting idly.

As you can see from the picture the toe has healed nicely.  I even got to clip the nail last week...a big moment for me.  It still feels like pins-and-needles at the tip of the toe area, but I can live with that.  I suspect that nerve damage may be permanent.

I have been cycling madly over the last couple of weeks and noticed severe pain after 30mins of cycling.  I thought it was caused by the toe but it is actually on a spot lateral to the bump (refer to where my finger is pointing).  This is where my cycling shoe strap tightens onto.  Strangely the pain is not evident on normal walking shoes.  Hoping this heals itself soon.

Right now, my poor fitness level is probably equivalent to what it was when I left Australia to climb Manaslu.  I am surprised to this day how my poor training and fitness actually got me up that mountain.  I don’t want to make that mistake of poor preparation again as I suffered too much.

Even though I will not be climbing this Nepalese spring season, my mind is still on that climbing cycle.  Easter weekend is when I have a big training session to gauge my fitness, but something has been worrying me of late.

What’s been causing me sleepless nights…

I’ve been trying to work out the safest way for me to keep hydrated and fuelled on summit nights.  

I struggled to get down from the summit of Manaslu because of dehydration.  I definitely did not have enough water –I only consumed 2Lt in total for the summit trip!  I would need at least 4-5Lt. This would be OK for mountains around the 8,100m range, but anything higher with a starting C4 of around 8,000m would be a more difficult proposition.

The air up there is dry, so you want to be drinking more.  Your appetite is diminished so forced eating of high calorific food and protein is important.  This means that in order for me to get enough calories, I would require electrolyte mixes and gel shots (gel shots were a god-send).

Fuelling for mountaineering summit night is much like solo MTB racing for 12+hrs, the first 50% is about looking after yourself for the last 50%.  The main difference is that in mountaineering you have to carry your food and water with you (MTB you pit-stop every lap to grab fuel and water).  So, what to do?  How much food to take and water to carry?  This is very difficult to judge correctly and I have not done that well as yet.  It doesn’t help that I lose my appetite whenever I undertake strenuous activity.

Let’s start with the water requirement:

If I need to carry 4-5Lt, then that will be a struggle. Carrying that without freezing is the main challenge.

1x2Lt Thermos = saved for the descent.

2x250mL Nalgene bottles carried in chest pockets (500ml bottles are too large for me to carry on my chest).  For drinking on ascent and refilled for the descent using thermos.

The other 2Lt I carry will need to withstand -30C temps and not freeze.  Even Nalgene bottles wrapped in neoprene bottle holders will start to freeze (it did on me in Aconcagua).  I also want easy access to water so that it encourages me to drink consistently and having to access the thermos in the backpack may not be ideal.

Decisions, decisions: To carry another 2L thermos or carry a 1.5L Camelbak bum bag?  I am leaning towards the bum bag as I can wear it either in or behind the body in the down suit (squished against my backpack or sitting on my tummy) as it would encourage me to sip /drink more consistently as I ascend.  Taking big gulps is not as effective as many smaller sips to quench the thirst.  Conversely, I think a thermos is also simpler and safer as a leak inside the down suit would be catastrophic, not to mention the comfort level of a bum bag inside the down suit.  I’m flip-flopping.

Now for the food:

The requirement is for very high energy stuff here!  Candy bars/power bars are great but have to be kept inside the down gear…biting into a frozen bar is a no no.  Gel shots are the ‘lifesaver’ and I carry as much as I can (minimum 1/hr, ideally 2/hr).  You can stash in most places on the body, or if I am wearing a Camelback under the down suit then I can stash it there as well.  The only food that I can truly stand to eat is most likely gel shots, even chocolate bars put me off.

Significant learning:

My mistake in Manaslu was that I failed to fuel and hydrate properly.  With so little food and water I was destined to hammer myself crazy, and I nearly did not make it.  I cannot repeat that again as my cat-9 lives are seriously running out.  Time to do some experimentation before I head off to Broad Peak in June.

For those that are off to Everest, hope you all make it.  Things always come in ‘threes’…so this 4^th year should be uneventful.  

Frostbite update 13 February 2016

Today was quite a good day!  The dead nail bit has separated and it left a thinner nail underneath (compare to previous post pictures to see the difference -darker bit in the picture).  There is still healthy growth from the nail bed (50% coverage).

The toe is still sensitive strangely near the nail bed.  Naturally sensitive at the tip and the thinner nail area.

I have been cycling for a little over a week now and getting a lot of aerobic fitness back.  Breathing more efficiently.  Legs and butt getting stronger and building density.

I hope to be able to run again by the end of February.

Protecting against sun damage (protecting your lips)

Every mountaineer will be exposed to extremely high sunlight/UV at some stage.  When this happens over multiple weeks on an expedition it results with significant sunburn and very bad lip damage.

I'm going to focus on looking after your lips here.  Bad lips = no kissing...but given the ratio of males to females on an expedition, kissing is probably not a good idea for a heterosexual male :-P

It is difficult to cover your mouth from the sun (and reflected sunlight from glaciers) when you are moving as you need to breath efficiently when climbing a mountain.  When you cover your mouth, the covering will eventually become wet from the breath, and thus hamper breathing.

Some people think that using high UV lip protection/balm is enough (similar to sunscreen for skin), but the reality is that constant exposure goes through that protection like it is not even there.  In a week or so your lips may become ulcerated...very painful and hampers drinking and eating.  You need to protect and repair.

SM33 is good for cleaning the damaged lips but surprisingly does not help with the healing.

My experience with having my lower lip entirely ulcerated caused me great concern on Manaslu.  Then my friend Victor Rimac handed me two silver aluminium satchels which contained a white buttery paste.  He told me that it was 100% cacao and that it would do wonders in repairing my ulcerated lip...in 3 days!  I thought he was talking rubbish as it would have been a magical cure.

I gave it a try by liberally covering my entire lip with the paste.  The paste smelt like chocolate (intoxicating...I want chocolate please) and melted upon contacting my warm lips.  I continued to apply it over 3 days to make sure there was always good coverage.  I was shocked that within 3 days most of the ulcerated lip had healed!  On the 4th day it had completely healed!

Victor was a lifesaver.

I learnt that cacao is very good for looking after your lips and good for repairing them when ulcerated.  The problem now is to find more of that 'magic stuff' as I cannot find that 'medical grade' cacao in Australia.  Since it was 100% cacao, I am going to try some 100% cacao butter to see if it would have the same effect.  I suspect so as it is the same ingredient.  Now...I just have to deliberately cause an ulcer to test it out :-(

Broad Peak 2016 expedition details/progress

New entry on the right.  Just getting ready.  Let's see how I will go ;-)

Frostbite update 2 January 2016

I was wondering why my toe was hurting and swollen...it couldn't have been the trekking I did at Freycinet (Mt Anton)? :-(

I went too hard too soon. It happened when coming down from Mt Anton -I had to roll onto the toe to get out of some sticky situations...I felt the pain and knew I would pay the price afterwards.

Also, from the pics, it looks like the nail is finally falling off (or more likely growing out). A good sign but horrible feeling.

The black tip of the toe (scab) fell off at Freycinet beach after soaking it in the sea. At least that was a good outcome from the hiking. The tip is still a little exposed and pink.

I am hoping it is another 2mths before all is good.

Review -The North Face Inferno -29C Sleeping Bag

Review on the right.

2016 climbing plans

For now, I am unlikely to climb in Nepal for Spring.  If I did get fit in time then I would be inclined to go back to Cho Oyu (in Tibet) to finish it off.  It drives me crazy that a long spout of diarrhea destroyed my Cho Oyu summit bid.

The sad fuel shortage situation in Nepal definitely will make it a no-go region for me.  How can I go climbing there when people have no fuel to survive?  Getting around would be a nightmare, let alone a supported expedition.  My guess is that the situation will not be resolved by April 2016.  It would also be too late for interested climbers to confirm plans with so much uncertainty.

The Tibet side is most likely the best choice, or Pakistan.

I am currently looking to climb in Pakistan in June. 2016.  I haven't decided yet if I will try for GI+GII or do a cheaper Broad Peak.  I am probably leaning towards Broad Peak to slowly get me back into the swing of things.  Then maybe in Nepal Autumn do Cho Oyu (if I did not do it in April) or Shishapangma.

Frostbite update 21 December 2015

Since the last update, recovery of the toe tip has been going very slowly.  The tip suffered the most damage and it was a 'concave scab'.  I know that it has not fully healed underneath as when I started trimming the edges, there were some very fresh pink tissue underneath and also a layer of skin not yet hardened 'settled'...because I trimmed a little too much.  I am impatient.

The nail bed is still looking very good and now I am positive that it will not fall off.  I have no idea how the scab underneath the nail bed will take to disappear.

I have started carefully rolling onto the big toe so that I can get the feeling of walking normally (not the very tip of the toe where the scab is located).  The nerves are still going 'haywire' as that will take the longest to heal.  It is very numb yet sensitive.  Horrible feeling.  My revised guess is that it will take another month for the scab at the tip to fall off but it will take probably 2mths for the stuff under the nail to disappear.  Hoping the nerves heal well.

Frostbite update 9 December 2015

Latest update from the trimming of the dead tissue (scab).  The lower side of the raised scab bled a little when I trimmed a little too much (by 0.5mm).  Not all of the underneath has fully healed.  I think what the scab covered area still requires quite a lot of healing.  I need some patience.

I can see a separation of the nail from the nail bed (fine line appearing)...so it looks like the toenail will fall off.  I just wish it fell off quickly!  I cannot get back into training when this is taking forever to heal.

It looks like I will have to skip the Nepal Spring climbing season.  My guess is that it would be completely healed by end February.  That only leaves 1mth of hard aerobic training to make it for Spring climbing...that is not possible with full-time work, and, the body will not be in top shape after such a long lay-off.

My plans are being messed up.

Frostbite update 26 Nov 2015

Got the good news from my Australian doctor yesterday.  Toe should heal well -only a few mm shorter at the tip will be the worst of it.  This is consistent with the feedback I received from an Italian doctor who gave me the good news 2wks ago.  Still waiting for the nail to fall off...but I think it will not fall off as it is still growing from the nail bed.  We will see who is right.  The nail may 'look different' depending on the extent of damage done to the nail bed.

It can take up to 2mths for the dead tissue to fall off and for the new tissue underneath to grow...I'm hoping it will only be another month but this is an unknown.  Nobody can set a time.  The nerves may recover at the tip but that will take a long time.  Not so good for climbing :-(

The best thing about coming back from an expedition is that you get to go back to work...because you can start using your brain again.  Expeditions can be quite boring.  One needs to really test the ol' noggin...still going strong :-)

Dropping my beautiful LML NV 150 Star 2 scooter

How much bad luck can one have.  If I didn't have bad luck, I would have no luck at all.  After owning my scooter for two full days (since it was registered and road worthy), and only having ridden it for two days, on my third day on a wet and greasy road 1km from work (after having ridden 8km already), I lost the front of the scooter going straight.  I must have hit an arrow line marking as I approached the the traffic lights.

Lucky I had washed off the speed as I did not have a motorcycle jacket, pants or a boot on my right toe (due to frostbite I cannot wear shoe on the right foot).

I landed on my right side and hit my right heel on the ground.  The helmet had a very light touch on the ground on the visor (scratched visor but no damage to helmet).  My goretex jacket and nylon waterproof pants were surprisingly unmarked and the body underneath was not injured.  The 'lucky' part was I did not hurt the frostbitten toe even though I landed on the right side.

Sadly the scooter sustained damage:
1) Handlebar twisted and not aligned to front wheel.  Hope there is no steering column damage.

2) Front fender edge scratched and slightly warped/bent.


3) Aluminium trimming partly torn off but no paint damage.


4) Right throttle grip slightly scratched.  Not worth replacing.
5) The previously lightly scratched rear cowl engine cover has now been properly scratched this time, but not dented.


I've left the scooter at work and will now to get it repaired.
-#1, #2 and #3 will have to be assessed for cost.  #1 hopefully is cheap to repair if only alignment is required (few bolts).  If steering column damaged then that will hurt more financially.  #2 may be cheap if I bend the fender metal and roughly align.  I can live with it not being perfect as it is an 'classic' scoot...gives it character?  #3 should be cheap to repair as the underlying metal base was not bent or damaged, just replace the aluminium strip.
-#5 would cost heaps to properly repair but a cheaper buff and paint would cost much less and fall within my budget.

The scooter is now going to be a dry weather commuter.  It loses it too quickly in the wet.  The last time I rode a motorcycle in 2006-7 I never dropped the bike even in wet weather.  This is the first time I have dropped a bike.  Unlikely to be my last (that is why I am not getting the scooter repaired pristinely).

Now, to buy some motorcycle protective gear in preparation for when I can ride the scooter again.

Frostbite update

Got some good news from a friend who has been liaising with his Dr specialist in frostbite.  Thanks mate for the help.  Some excerpts.

"He said that it's going well.  The toe seems like mine after the freezing of 2006."

"Slowly the dead skin will come off and there will be new skin under.  Likely the same will happen to the nail."

"The doctor says that the frostbite did not affect the bone." 
-that's what I like to hear!

"You must not pull the skin and cause bleeding.  When the skin comes off, cut only the dead skin with a scissors or ask a doctor to do it.
You have to have patience, the death skin will come off alone."  
-My bad, just wanted to have a nicer looking toe ;-)

Some good news for now.  I revisit my local specialist on 25 Nov and hopefully it is just a simple tick and go.

What Grade1/low 2 (maybe) frostbite looks like

For those that are not familiar with frostbite, then this is what it looks like. Incident happened on Manaslu summit night and this is 30 days later. I have another 25 days of waiting before I revisit the vascular specialist. Lucky I also have a friend that is sending these pics to his specialist Dr in Italy for co advice.

-I have effectively regained the full feeling of all my toes on the left foot (no dead tissue).
-My right thumb tip is effectively healed (no dead tissue but sensitive and numb at the tip of the thumb).
-The remaining toes on the right foot are still very numb but I have regained control and there is improvement in feeling/sensations (right toes also have nil dead tissue as shown in the photos).

My only concern remains, and has always been, the big right toe.

Pedicure anybody?

Tent sailing away

For those who saw my tweet of 27 September 2015 at C2 from Manaslu, you may be wondering what this was all about.

Well, I was sleeping at C2 by myself and it was a very blustery night. The gusts were vicious all night long. I think I was the only person in C2 that night.

I was sleeping in the Amical TNF 3P tent (thanks Dominic for letting me/Dawa stay there) and looking after the tent…lucky I was there (read further along). It was a poor sleep due to the wind that would be severely pressing onto the poles. Lucky Amical staff knew how to pitch a tent up properly staking out the guy lines. The guy lines are critical in windy conditions and they were taut lines.

Well, many other sherpas are not as good at pitching tents as Amical…yes Seven Summit Treks (SST) – I’m point you guys out. At approx. 2:00am in the morning the Amical tent ‘felt’ strange and I could see a shadow on the outside of the tent (towards the back door). It felt like the tent was being pulled from the mountain! I could hear some fluttering. I then unzipped the rear tent door and peeked outside, to then have an external tent hit me in the face! I peered left and saw that another 3person Yak Mountain tent (from SST) had been entangled with the Amical tent that I was in. The pole of the other tent had pierced the Amical fly at the top and the guy lines were tangled, which stopped the SST tent from being blown away.

I immediately grabbed the still-erected/’pitched’ tent that was acting like a huge sail on top of the Amical tent. I waited for the gusts to settle down (a lull) and quickly threw on my boots and down jacket…I was sleeping in my Gore-Tex bib pants so it was pretty quick to get out. It was still windy and I separated the SST tent from the Amical tent…but I could not untangle the guy lines. I used my ice axe and staked the SST tent down in the heavy wind conditions. This was the best I could do in the conditions. There was a lot of profanity as all this was being done.

When morning came, I heard a Sherpa coming towards the Amical tent. He pointed out the SST tent. Apparently the SST tent had broken free of the ice axe and was pulling on the Amical tent. The winds had died down, but still present. I then had to go back out and separate the SST inner with its flysheet, unpitch/dismantle the SST tent by removing its poles and then lay everything flat and stake them to stop them from flying away. The SST flysheet had its guy lines still entangled but I would leave that for the SST team to deal with when they arrived into C2 later that day.

There was no damage to the SST tent but the Amical tent had been pierced. I used some Leukotape to try to patch the Amical piercing but it will not hold for long.

Summation:
1) Sherpas need to learn to pitch tents better. Guy lines are critical to tent stabilisation in windy conditions and they need to be taut (static strength). The more you stake out a tent the stronger it will be.
2) I had to save the SST tent as they had clients coming up that day. If I did not, they would have been severely impacted with not enough tents at that time for the arriving team. You owe me one SST!
3) Amical was lucky I was sleeping in their tent…as the SST tent that was acting as a big sail would have pulled both tents off the mountain during that gusty night. We are even as you let me use your tent ;-)