Broad Peak 2016 expedition details/progress

New entry on the right.  Just getting ready.  Let's see how I will go ;-)

Frostbite update 2 January 2016

I was wondering why my toe was hurting and swollen...it couldn't have been the trekking I did at Freycinet (Mt Anton)? :-(

I went too hard too soon. It happened when coming down from Mt Anton -I had to roll onto the toe to get out of some sticky situations...I felt the pain and knew I would pay the price afterwards.

Also, from the pics, it looks like the nail is finally falling off (or more likely growing out). A good sign but horrible feeling.

The black tip of the toe (scab) fell off at Freycinet beach after soaking it in the sea. At least that was a good outcome from the hiking. The tip is still a little exposed and pink.

I am hoping it is another 2mths before all is good.

Review -The North Face Inferno -29C Sleeping Bag

Review on the right.

2016 climbing plans

For now, I am unlikely to climb in Nepal for Spring.  If I did get fit in time then I would be inclined to go back to Cho Oyu (in Tibet) to finish it off.  It drives me crazy that a long spout of diarrhea destroyed my Cho Oyu summit bid.

The sad fuel shortage situation in Nepal definitely will make it a no-go region for me.  How can I go climbing there when people have no fuel to survive?  Getting around would be a nightmare, let alone a supported expedition.  My guess is that the situation will not be resolved by April 2016.  It would also be too late for interested climbers to confirm plans with so much uncertainty.

The Tibet side is most likely the best choice, or Pakistan.

I am currently looking to climb in Pakistan in June. 2016.  I haven't decided yet if I will try for GI+GII or do a cheaper Broad Peak.  I am probably leaning towards Broad Peak to slowly get me back into the swing of things.  Then maybe in Nepal Autumn do Cho Oyu (if I did not do it in April) or Shishapangma.

Frostbite update 21 December 2015

Since the last update, recovery of the toe tip has been going very slowly.  The tip suffered the most damage and it was a 'concave scab'.  I know that it has not fully healed underneath as when I started trimming the edges, there were some very fresh pink tissue underneath and also a layer of skin not yet hardened 'settled'...because I trimmed a little too much.  I am impatient.

The nail bed is still looking very good and now I am positive that it will not fall off.  I have no idea how the scab underneath the nail bed will take to disappear.

I have started carefully rolling onto the big toe so that I can get the feeling of walking normally (not the very tip of the toe where the scab is located).  The nerves are still going 'haywire' as that will take the longest to heal.  It is very numb yet sensitive.  Horrible feeling.  My revised guess is that it will take another month for the scab at the tip to fall off but it will take probably 2mths for the stuff under the nail to disappear.  Hoping the nerves heal well.

Frostbite update 9 December 2015

Latest update from the trimming of the dead tissue (scab).  The lower side of the raised scab bled a little when I trimmed a little too much (by 0.5mm).  Not all of the underneath has fully healed.  I think what the scab covered area still requires quite a lot of healing.  I need some patience.

I can see a separation of the nail from the nail bed (fine line appearing)...so it looks like the toenail will fall off.  I just wish it fell off quickly!  I cannot get back into training when this is taking forever to heal.

It looks like I will have to skip the Nepal Spring climbing season.  My guess is that it would be completely healed by end February.  That only leaves 1mth of hard aerobic training to make it for Spring climbing...that is not possible with full-time work, and, the body will not be in top shape after such a long lay-off.

My plans are being messed up.

Frostbite update 26 Nov 2015

Got the good news from my Australian doctor yesterday.  Toe should heal well -only a few mm shorter at the tip will be the worst of it.  This is consistent with the feedback I received from an Italian doctor who gave me the good news 2wks ago.  Still waiting for the nail to fall off...but I think it will not fall off as it is still growing from the nail bed.  We will see who is right.  The nail may 'look different' depending on the extent of damage done to the nail bed.

It can take up to 2mths for the dead tissue to fall off and for the new tissue underneath to grow...I'm hoping it will only be another month but this is an unknown.  Nobody can set a time.  The nerves may recover at the tip but that will take a long time.  Not so good for climbing :-(

The best thing about coming back from an expedition is that you get to go back to work...because you can start using your brain again.  Expeditions can be quite boring.  One needs to really test the ol' noggin...still going strong :-)

Dropping my beautiful LML NV 150 Star 2 scooter

How much bad luck can one have.  If I didn't have bad luck, I would have no luck at all.  After owning my scooter for two full days (since it was registered and road worthy), and only having ridden it for two days, on my third day on a wet and greasy road 1km from work (after having ridden 8km already), I lost the front of the scooter going straight.  I must have hit an arrow line marking as I approached the the traffic lights.

Lucky I had washed off the speed as I did not have a motorcycle jacket, pants or a boot on my right toe (due to frostbite I cannot wear shoe on the right foot).

I landed on my right side and hit my right heel on the ground.  The helmet had a very light touch on the ground on the visor (scratched visor but no damage to helmet).  My goretex jacket and nylon waterproof pants were surprisingly unmarked and the body underneath was not injured.  The 'lucky' part was I did not hurt the frostbitten toe even though I landed on the right side.

Sadly the scooter sustained damage:
1) Handlebar twisted and not aligned to front wheel.  Hope there is no steering column damage.

2) Front fender edge scratched and slightly warped/bent.


3) Aluminium trimming partly torn off but no paint damage.


4) Right throttle grip slightly scratched.  Not worth replacing.
5) The previously lightly scratched rear cowl engine cover has now been properly scratched this time, but not dented.


I've left the scooter at work and will now to get it repaired.
-#1, #2 and #3 will have to be assessed for cost.  #1 hopefully is cheap to repair if only alignment is required (few bolts).  If steering column damaged then that will hurt more financially.  #2 may be cheap if I bend the fender metal and roughly align.  I can live with it not being perfect as it is an 'classic' scoot...gives it character?  #3 should be cheap to repair as the underlying metal base was not bent or damaged, just replace the aluminium strip.
-#5 would cost heaps to properly repair but a cheaper buff and paint would cost much less and fall within my budget.

The scooter is now going to be a dry weather commuter.  It loses it too quickly in the wet.  The last time I rode a motorcycle in 2006-7 I never dropped the bike even in wet weather.  This is the first time I have dropped a bike.  Unlikely to be my last (that is why I am not getting the scooter repaired pristinely).

Now, to buy some motorcycle protective gear in preparation for when I can ride the scooter again.

Frostbite update

Got some good news from a friend who has been liaising with his Dr specialist in frostbite.  Thanks mate for the help.  Some excerpts.

"He said that it's going well.  The toe seems like mine after the freezing of 2006."

"Slowly the dead skin will come off and there will be new skin under.  Likely the same will happen to the nail."

"The doctor says that the frostbite did not affect the bone." 
-that's what I like to hear!

"You must not pull the skin and cause bleeding.  When the skin comes off, cut only the dead skin with a scissors or ask a doctor to do it.
You have to have patience, the death skin will come off alone."  
-My bad, just wanted to have a nicer looking toe ;-)

Some good news for now.  I revisit my local specialist on 25 Nov and hopefully it is just a simple tick and go.

What Grade1/low 2 (maybe) frostbite looks like

For those that are not familiar with frostbite, then this is what it looks like. Incident happened on Manaslu summit night and this is 30 days later. I have another 25 days of waiting before I revisit the vascular specialist. Lucky I also have a friend that is sending these pics to his specialist Dr in Italy for co advice.

-I have effectively regained the full feeling of all my toes on the left foot (no dead tissue).
-My right thumb tip is effectively healed (no dead tissue but sensitive and numb at the tip of the thumb).
-The remaining toes on the right foot are still very numb but I have regained control and there is improvement in feeling/sensations (right toes also have nil dead tissue as shown in the photos).

My only concern remains, and has always been, the big right toe.

Pedicure anybody?

Tent sailing away

For those who saw my tweet of 27 September 2015 at C2 from Manaslu, you may be wondering what this was all about.

Well, I was sleeping at C2 by myself and it was a very blustery night. The gusts were vicious all night long. I think I was the only person in C2 that night.

I was sleeping in the Amical TNF 3P tent (thanks Dominic for letting me/Dawa stay there) and looking after the tent…lucky I was there (read further along). It was a poor sleep due to the wind that would be severely pressing onto the poles. Lucky Amical staff knew how to pitch a tent up properly staking out the guy lines. The guy lines are critical in windy conditions and they were taut lines.

Well, many other sherpas are not as good at pitching tents as Amical…yes Seven Summit Treks (SST) – I’m point you guys out. At approx. 2:00am in the morning the Amical tent ‘felt’ strange and I could see a shadow on the outside of the tent (towards the back door). It felt like the tent was being pulled from the mountain! I could hear some fluttering. I then unzipped the rear tent door and peeked outside, to then have an external tent hit me in the face! I peered left and saw that another 3person Yak Mountain tent (from SST) had been entangled with the Amical tent that I was in. The pole of the other tent had pierced the Amical fly at the top and the guy lines were tangled, which stopped the SST tent from being blown away.

I immediately grabbed the still-erected/’pitched’ tent that was acting like a huge sail on top of the Amical tent. I waited for the gusts to settle down (a lull) and quickly threw on my boots and down jacket…I was sleeping in my Gore-Tex bib pants so it was pretty quick to get out. It was still windy and I separated the SST tent from the Amical tent…but I could not untangle the guy lines. I used my ice axe and staked the SST tent down in the heavy wind conditions. This was the best I could do in the conditions. There was a lot of profanity as all this was being done.

When morning came, I heard a Sherpa coming towards the Amical tent. He pointed out the SST tent. Apparently the SST tent had broken free of the ice axe and was pulling on the Amical tent. The winds had died down, but still present. I then had to go back out and separate the SST inner with its flysheet, unpitch/dismantle the SST tent by removing its poles and then lay everything flat and stake them to stop them from flying away. The SST flysheet had its guy lines still entangled but I would leave that for the SST team to deal with when they arrived into C2 later that day.

There was no damage to the SST tent but the Amical tent had been pierced. I used some Leukotape to try to patch the Amical piercing but it will not hold for long.

Summation:
1) Sherpas need to learn to pitch tents better. Guy lines are critical to tent stabilisation in windy conditions and they need to be taut (static strength). The more you stake out a tent the stronger it will be.
2) I had to save the SST tent as they had clients coming up that day. If I did not, they would have been severely impacted with not enough tents at that time for the arriving team. You owe me one SST!
3) Amical was lucky I was sleeping in their tent…as the SST tent that was acting as a big sail would have pulled both tents off the mountain during that gusty night. We are even as you let me use your tent ;-)

Review -Goal Zero Sherpa 100 and Nomad 20 solar panel

Review on the right.

Philosophical view on life

My vascular specialist was asking me why I climb mountains (high stuff) and I said to him that to me, 'life', was not about 'living long', but living well.

I said that many people lived to say 80yrs but they have barely travelled or done much with their lives. What I have done in just 8yrs (travels and adventures) has been more than your average person...I am privileged to be in the situation I am. I am happy to die for a better quality of life (but not happy to lose parts of my body as that reduces quality -'all or nothing' mentality).

I do not compare myself to others in terms of 'quality' as this is not a competition. Only you can judge your own quality and completeness on your death-bed. But opportunities are limited. Imagine when you are 'older' and when you review your life and say...I still have many things to do, or, I forgot to do that. What if you were no longer capable of physically doing it? How would you feel about losing that opportunity? Any regrets?

Fact: We are all going to grow old and die. What will be your defining moment? Is it children? Is is adventure? Is it work? Whatever it is, make sure you don't lose your opportunity...enjoy a good quality life, don't just go through the daily grind and then find out that life has passed you by.

Quantity means nothing. Think about quality. If you get both together, even better.

If I die on a mountain, then don't be upset (maybe just a little). Know that I would be going out chasing a goal (I don't actually enjoy high altitude mountaineering that much...too much hard work)...goals aren't easy, but they are there for a reason...they are suppose to be challenging.

My vascular specialist knows his stuff, but also good for a philosophical chat.

Vascular specialist update on frostbite.

Saw vascular specialist today and below is what he says about the right toe (all other toes/fingers are of no concern and will heal properly back to normal):

1) Need approx 6wks to see what damaged areas have fallen off.

2) Expects the dome/cap (tip of toe encircled by purple/black) to fall off as the tip has dead tissue. Pink is good, black bad, purple not so good.
3) Nail may fall off but if nail bed is undamaged, everything grows back. Growth may be a little wonky if nail bed is unevenly damaged.
4) Only after 2 will he know if there is bone damage. Bone damage will most likely mean half of toe is removed surgically.
5) Best case scenario is that 2 occurs and no bone damage. This means tissue will regrow underneath. Toe may be a few mm shorter. Tip of toe will be scar tissue and no nerves (no feeling).
6) Taking aspirin to improve blood flow in affected area.

Basically time will tell (in 6wks or so). The 'good' outcome isn't that good. The potential bad outcome is very bad. Not happy one bit. I'm going to be a freak.

If someone ever asks you if you should have more warmth on your feet or fingers for high altitude mountaineering, then ignore their response and go with 'yes' everytime. Sherpas and guides do not know...only you know your resilience to the cold. Don't listen to so-called experts...you are more educated and should listen to you own gut feeling...if not, then listen to me!

Less than genuine advertising.

I have been looking at a range of expedition websites and heli charter services in Nepal and it is blatantly clear that many are next to useless.  Many advertise that they will be having expeditions but they never do.  It is just a waste of time.

Similarly many heli charter services are effectively resellers or separate legal entities for the sake of taxation.  I have found that only a handful are genuine and respond to your queries (genuine such as Fishtail Air and Mountain Helicopters Nepal to name a couple).

Maybe it is a cultural thing but advertising services that one does not follow-through just wastes people's time.  It also damages the reputation of those companies.

If you look at all the wide range of expeditions that many companies claim to offer, they probably only offer 1/10 of what is advertised in any given year.  Expeditions are also highly dependent upon cross company efforts and thus the success is not based on a single company, but how broader team work is organised to reduce freeloading.  This is particularly true when trying to organise fixed lines.  I noticed this at Cho Oyu where large expedition groups would try to maximise their freeloading.  When you see these meetings where they are looking at effort and equipment contributions to set fixed lines, it is frustrating because of the B.S. These delays are actually hampering the very same clients that pay them in the first place.

For this reason, I can definitely see the appeal of the movement to self-supported expeditions, where those that are highly skilled can just do it by themselves.  Kudos to them.  I personally would like to move towards that space where there is a reduction of reliance on fixed lines, but I would need to get better first.

Who do you trust in the mountaineering business world?

Of recent there has been a lot of negative news regarding relationships and trust between guides, sherpas and clients (over the last 3yrs that I have heard of).

For example:

i) The death threats of 2013 between sherpas and western climbers (http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2013/13/130502-mount-everest-fight-simone-moro-interview-sherpas/); 

ii) I hear of a US guide ripping US clients off -Jeff Kron on Jon Kedrowski on Tashi Lakpa Sherpa’s post –Tashi of Seven Summit Treks 

(https://www.facebook.com/tashilakpa.sherpa/posts/906701006084232?comment_id=928505160570483&notif_t=mentions_comment);

iii) And the loss of the Greek Everest expedition payments with a registered Nepalese company (http://news.yahoo.com/robbery-saved-9-greek-climbers-nepal-quake-191946189.html).

Note: I do not have enough information to make a judgement of the incidents (I was not there myself in the examples above), I am looking at it from a broader perspective.

My real question is how does one know who to trust? 

a) The first example i shows the failure in relationship that at one time the climbers and sherpa were close (as they climbed together), but in a subsequent year, those same Sherpas are trying to kill them.

b) There is the inherent notion that when you work with a western guide or western company that you are ‘safer’.  Given the experience of the person in point ii, this is not necessarily true.  I hope that the client receives compensation if what has been reported is true. 

c) Similarly in point iii, a registered Nepalese company (or its staff) can simply result with theft and your life savings disappear.  Your dreams are thus over!  I find it funny that the news articles say that the guide that ripped them off effectively saved them from the avalanche that occurred on Everest Base Camp 2015…this is rubbish.  Theft is theft.  

A new client has to really look at the fact that they are giving money to a stranger.  Thus, one has to do their homework.  This means trying to find out how long that company has been active, the relationship one has, what recourse for remediation (do you know where his family comes from, can you find them if something goes wrong).  Nepal and the US are large populous countries where people can easily disappear with your money.  At least if you deal with a western company, given the western country’s legal system and infrastructure, one can more easily take legal action for compensation claims…you would have no hope in a 3rd world country such as Nepal.

For a new comer into mountaineering, you have some decisions to make.  Do you put your faith completely with an unknown company?  Do you try to do your own thing (fully independent) or a hybrid approach?

My recommendation is to learn by doing your first expedition on the cheap and rely on an established company (make sure to have travel insurance).  From here, you should have quickly learned about logistics management and determined what you need or not.  This then allows you to generally hit up a hybrid expedition approach.  It is rare to do it fully independently as the logistics of transport and food is difficult to organise overseas in less developed countries.  During your travels you meet up with other Sherpas and expedition companies and you get a feel of who are good and who are not, who are trustworthy (only a perception) and then put in security mechanisms to protect yourself and your money (expedition investment).

Learn from the experiences of others but also recognise that you cannot expect everything (unless you pay through the nose).  Your expectations must be realistic.  As soon as something doesn’t sound right, then raise it immediately.  Bad experiences should be shared to warn others of unscrupulous companies/individuals.

My experience has not always been positive.  Many promises have been made and broken.  I have seen many guides fail drastically in decision making which has cost me a chance to summit.  I have learnt to not fully trust anybody but myself and my own judgements.  I take a hybrid approach to my expeditions and if it fails, then I am the only one to blame.  If you don’t think you have the experience to make that call for yourself, then make sure you do your homework in finding a good full-service expedition company.  Do not listen to the marketing ‘fluff’…you want to deal with people that can be frank and honest with you.  When the s**t hits the fan, you need to be able to talk honestly without thinking you are about to hurt somebody’s feelings.  Your life may depend on it.

Whatever you do, remember that your hard earned cash is about to be transferred to a stranger…make sure you have recourse and protection.

My answer is…trust nobody!

Expedition toilet etiquette

I never seriously thought I would ever need to complain about this...but how I can be proven wrong.  You would think that people know how to use a toilet, but you would be wrong.  Stupid people do exist.  So let me educate those that just do not have a clue on how to use an asian toilet (or its equivalent makeshift expedition rock platform toilets).

Here is a picture of a typical asian toilet.

Note how it has placement for your feet on either side of the bowl.  This is where you put your feet.

Note the hole that is closer to one end of the bowl.  This is the bottom end...you face away from the bottom end.

Pretty simple so far.  Now, when you go on an expedition, the hardworking sherpas usually set up a toilet using large rocks to create something identical (with a tent-like enclosure for privacy).  This setup has parallel foot placements.  This is where you put your feet.  You either have a drum barrel in substitution of a bowl or your waste goes straight into the ground (depends on your expedition company).

Now, that isn't difficult at all to comprehend...but there is generally one idiot that does not use it properly and thus causes a real hygiene issue.  There is generally an idiot that squats with both feet on one side of the foot placement, and thus when they do their business, they end up leaving some waste on the other foot placement!  This is very inconsiderate and pisses everyone off.  The poor sherpa/staff then have to clean it up.

If you are one such person that has no common sense, and you have read this blog, then please be considerate to your sherpas and fellow climbers.

In my cancelled Everest+Lhotse expedition, some idiot did this and the poor sherpas had to clean it up 3 times from recollection.  It came down to 'covert' monitoring by sherpas after use to try to catch the culprit.  Actions like this causes serious disease and sickness and requires immediate attention.

Don't be that person!

Review -Forty Below K2 Superlight Overboots

Review on the right.

Review -Fisher Space Pen (AG7) and Nu Stone paper

Review on the right.

Review -Sea to Summit - Clear Stopper Dry Bag 13L and 20L

Review on the right.

I stand by the reviews I do on products

I reviewed the TNF Himalayan Down Parka and Pant not too long ago.  Sadly I lost them near C1 at Everest due to not being able to recover the gear.  I thus purchased the replacements.  I preferred the Windstopper parka version over the newer Pertex version.

The jacket is slightly different to the previous lost red parka in that the inside lining is not TNF logoed.  The size Small feels a tad larger...but this is most likely psychological.  The black colour was not my first choice but it was the cheapest option.  Red goes faster :-).  Does this black coloured one mean I go slower?...but black is 'trimming'.

For the pant comparison there is no real difference that I could find besides the red coloured zipper.  I thought that the bib felt a little tighter but that could be me putting on weight...that's why a trimming black parka may do the trick ;-)

Mistakes I made on the Everest + Lhotse cancelled expedition

Oh' the shame of it!  I finally admit to making mistakes.  Hard to believe :-).

Well, I might as well get straight into it...the WORST mistake I made was to put my trust in someone else.  My climbing principle has always been to trust one's own judgement and capabilities, because you can never put your faith in another climber.  If you cannot be self-sufficient, then what do you do when a disaster strikes and the support that you relied upon disappears?

Instances of my bad judgement that should not have been made are listed below:

Case 1: At the commencement of the avalanche that hit Everest Base Camp (EBC) (refer to my diary log on sequence of events), I ran from my stable expedition tent to the larger dining tent (25-30m from my tent).  I did this because I heard somebody shout 'run' when I saw the avalanche approach me.  Stupid, stupid, stupid.  Fear got the better of me and I should have remained focussed and ran towards the biggest boulder that I could find, or anchor myself to something solid and hope that I did not get (i) blown away, (ii) buried or (iii) shredded by ice and rock.

My best option, given the unknown composition of the avalanche that hit us, was to actually run TOWARDS the avalanche direction as within around 10m or so there were a few large boulders/rocks that could have provided shelter from i and iii.

Running to the dining tent was the dumbest thing I could have done as the dining tent would have acted like a large sail for the avalanche to catch.  Lucky we were not hit by the 'meaty' bit of the avalanche.

Case 2: Not carrying my prusiks and roller pulleys for self/pulley rescue.  You may not think there would be a need for it going through the Khumbu Icefall, as it is all fixed lines, but should something go wrong, then you would end up requiring the assistance of others.

For example, I was only one day out from going through the icefall when the avalanche hit.  Dawa had just returned from C1 that morning.  Fixed lines and ladders would have been damaged if I was in the icefall during the earthquake.  With prusiks and pulleys one can have a chance to use the damaged fixed lines (cut and set new anchors) to possibly climb back down/up...compared with less/minimal/no chance without the basic lightweight rescue gear.

I've learnt my lesson and will carry it myself next time.

Case 3: This was not a situation relating to danger, but relating to my judgement when I did not trust my own feelings.  There were two trail deviations where I followed my guide off-the-beaten-track.

1. One scenario was during an acclimitisation hike where we got into an area that was not ideal- bad-angled weak soft snow, ill prepared footwear for the area (got wet) and not a clear path direction.  
2. The second scenario was on our return from EBC to Lukla...we deviated from the normal trekking trail (shortcut...which it wasn't) and had to go across the middle of a relatively fresh big landslide area in a side forrest.  Not a great choice given the instability of the soil in the landslide (like walking in powder snow with little base underneath and sliding downhill on each step) and the risk of more stuff coming down.  Staying on the normal trail would have been safer.  

In both cases I knew something felt 'wrong' but I went with it anyway.  Maybe I would have traversed through those areas again if I had to repeat the decision (redoing the risk assessment), but I 'let' someone else make that decision instead of me.

Learn from my mistakes.  Think before you act and trust your own feelings.

Mountain electronic devices and keeping them powered up

One of the first things you notice as you get further away from civilisation (Kathmandu) is that the cost of charging devices becomes more expensive.  In Lukla recharging electronic devices is generally free but as soon as you hit Phakding, you pay around USD$3/hr.  Past that it goes to USD$5/hr.  Once at BC there should be a generator to charge your devices provided by your logistics company (covered within your costs), which usually run from late afternoon onwards.  Not the most environmentally friendly approach as it basically consumes fuel to operate.  This is why I look at a better alternative.

The devices I took with me (and what I should have left behind in Kathmandu)
This then raises the question of what is the best way to recharge your devices.  For my Everest+Lhotse (EL) expedition I took:
1) MacBook Air (MBA)*;
2) Smartphone (Sony Xperia Z Ultra);
3) SLR camera (Sony A7R+5 batteries);
4) Spare Nikon waterproof compact camera (AW100 +4 batteries);
5) Satellite phone (Isatphone);
6) Rechargeable headlamp (Black Diamond ReVolt); and
7) Rechargeable HAM radio
(from what I can remember).

That is a lot of stuff to take to Base Camp (BC)!

*In hindsight, I should have not taken the MBA to BC as it is not good to take it to that altitude.  The lower pressure air at that altitude significantly impacts a laptop's ability to cool, and it will heat up heaps...so make sure it does not get too warm/hot!  Take care with condensation as well.  If you do want to take a laptop then buy something cheap that you do not mind destroying.  I will not take my MBA on trails again.

Prioritise order of charging devices
Now, one has to consider how to recharge if you do not want to be paying by the hour all the way to BC.  Naturally the priority for charging is to charge the safety equipment and frequently used items that saves on batteries first (5, 7 and 6), followed by the things of less priority (3, 2 then 1).  Spare camera was not used and thus did not need to be charged (topped up if required).

How much daylight and maximising it
There is around 7-8hrs of good daylight for charging in Spring but if you are on the Everest trek route, then you need to be able to strap a panel of some sort onto your bag to take advantage of the available light.  I was using the Powertraveller Powermonkey Extreme 12V for this purpose.

When you stop trekking and arrive at a guest/tea house, or when in BC, this is when you can take out the big guns such as a foldable/rollable panel.  Hook it either to a battery storage or directly into the device.  I was using an Tactical 24W flexible panel with a car 12V socket, which I had purchased at a sale at 50% off...I should have bought two of them!  You ideally want to have a regulated power source charging your devices as you can damage your device by directly connecting to an unregulated solar panel.  Use at your own risk.

What I learnt (or knew beforehand)
Different devices require different power inputs.  One thing I was aware of, was that this setup alone would not be able to charge the MBA.  That MBA (and most Apple laptops) will require substantially more power, and consistent power.  I charged my MBA via the generator source at BC and used it infrequently along the trail to BC.

You need to look at what power your devices requires before you head out, and make sure you have all the right connectors.  Try to limit the number of different connectors and try to label them if you can.  It makes searching for the right combination a much easier exercise instead of rummaging through it.  Keep cables tidy and separate (tie them individually up with rubberbands).

All my devices were able to be charged perfectly with this setup.  That said, I did encounter a failure with the Powermonkey Extreme.  For some unknown reason the cable from the solar panel to the battery/controller failed to make contact properly.  I was not sure whether it was a battery controller issue, whether it was the non-USB small connector jack plug, or whether it was the battery/controller input jack socket that failed...I suspect that it was the input jack socket of the battery/controller.

This was a pain in the butt.  Lucky for my Tactical that gave me alternate power (and the BC generator).

The good thing is that the Australian Powertraveller distributor (Sea to Summit) covered it with a new replacement under warranty.  That is the type of service I would have expected from a good company like Sea to Summit.  That said, I may have been unlucky (as you know I am VERY UNLUCKY) with getting the problem in the first place, but it does shake my confidence in the product.  The device saw hardly any use at all before failure.  Powertraveller would sell thousands of these devices internationally so...pure bad luck on my part?  My confidence has been shaken and thus I will sell my replacement Powermonkey Extreme and I will get a chance to try something else :-).  A gadget freak like me always likes to try new things.

Having a battery pack makes like easier when you head to higher amps.  You can still charge your safety devices.  I also take spare camera batteries to higher camps, but to know that I have a lightweight battery storage at C1 or C2 is comforting (in a C3-C4 8,000m type mountain).

Where to next?
1) I will be keeping my Tactical panel as it is a gun when you need power!  Even when there is some cloud in the sky it is still able to capture the sun's energy.

2) I have been looking at the Voltaic Systems and Goal Zero options.  I am inclined to 'future-proof' by buying a more powerful system.  I can ensure that if I did take a cheap laptop to my next BC then I can still charge it without any issue, also accommodating any future power hungry devices.

i) I am leaning towards the more expensive Goal Zero (GZ) Sherpa 100 kit with inverter as it has stronger connectors and it can daisy-chain easily with the Tactical panel.  All I do is buy the GZ 8mm to 12V plug and I connect the Tactical to the GZ Nomad 20 panel, which in turn connects with the Sherpa 100.  This gives me solar panel power of 45W when I am stationary, and 20W when I attach it to a backpack when moving.  I can even fold the Nomad 20 down in size by one segment (lose 30% generation capacity or so) if it is too awkward to attach to different sized packs.

ii) Also, the choice of a GZ inverter provides flexibility with accommodating Apple laptops...as Apple has a habit of changing their proprietary connectors.  In the future, I don't need to go to eBay and buy another AUD$40 12V to MagSafe 2 adapter, or whatever new connector is released, when I can just use the power plug.  Only disadvantage with an inverter is that they are around 20% inefficient...but I can overcome this my the high power solar panel setup.  This would only apply to items being used on the laptop (MBA) whereas everything else would obtain efficient DC power from the other Sherpa 100 output ports.

If (when :)) I do buy it, I'll do a thorough review from the trail.  Give it a good testing.

The things that worry me on the way to the mountain, and on the mountain.

Concern 1

The dreaded diarrhoea!  This is my number one concern.  Having been unlucky enough to be caught out with a severe instance (of 30 days straight –suspect Giardia) I am worried about getting a bug or repeated bugs.  The ‘big D’ can take all your energy away and cause cramping and water loss.  It effectively cripples your expedition.  This time I have come better prepared.  After talking to my Dr we agreed on a standard approach to treatment of diarrhoea.  It is important to talk to your doctor about your particular case and what medication will work for you.  I am not providing any medical advice whatsoever, I am only going with my own approach (Norfloxacin, Tinidazole and Azithromycin).  I will use Imodium if all else fails.  If I cannot stop the diarrhoea at its cause, then I will have to try to slow the digestive system down until I can get the climbing out of the way.  I have heard of some mountaineers being on Imodium for many days straight...urgh.  Doesn’t sound too comfortable at all.  But you need to do what you need to do.

Concern 2

Exhaustion –This comes on very fast.  I was surprised that one minute you can be pacing nicely and then all of a sudden your body just stops.  ‘Hitting the wall’ is a nightmare as you stand there not having any energy left to even walk.  This happened to me as a result of the above, and it took 20mins just to power down some sugars to get the energy to walk 20m to my tent.  The problem was exacerbated by not eating more frequently throughout the day.  I should be snacking at least every hour (carbs or sugary drink).  So much energy is expended at altitude that consumption needs to be increased significantly.

Concern 3

Diet at high camps is all about being able to stomach whatever you have.  I shall be food shopping with my Sherpa for high camp food.  I remember being provided with freeze dried healthy food at higher camps, but neither my tent buddy nor myself could stomach it.  The healthy ‘gruel’ was very bland and tasted like cardboard.  My approach is to decide on what I can stomach and then buy TASTY food before leaving Kathmandu, not necessarily health food.  At high altitude you tend to lose some of your ‘taste buds’ and many foods taste bland.  If you cannot enjoy your food then you will not eat it, thus no energy to generate heat or move.  Taste is everything!  For the healthy freaks out there...get over it.  Throw down some food that has high sugar, high fat, high salt etc.  Yum yum.  Time to buy a tiny bottle of soy sauce to give taste to the infinite amount of eggs that will be eaten on the mountain (yes, you get sick of eggs).  If all else fails then befriend an Italian...they always carry nice food.

Concern 4

Frostbite - Not much you can do here except to eat lots, drink lots, keep all skin covered and layer for warmth.  Toes are a big concern as you need your boots snug enough that your feet do not slip/move yet not so tight that circulation is restricted.  Your boots are always in contact with the snow so warmth is critical.  There is no coming back once your toes (and to a lesser extent your fingers) go very cold...it is not easy to remove your footwear to deal with issues.  To try to mitigate toe frostbite I am using a vapour barrier layer (VBL) to keep sweat from soaking my socks and adding an extra insulation layer over my mountaineering boots –adding a 40Below neoprene overboot over my La Sportiva Olympus Mons boots.  This hopefully will form a warmer combination without relying on electronic food heater insoles (more batteries and chance of failure) or chemical insoles (hit or miss success rate given low O2 in boot).  I’ll let you know how it goes.

There are always things that people can be concerned about, whether it be in mountaineering, personal adventures or life in general.  The best tactic to dealing with them is to be sensible and think it out logically, plan for the event/mitigation and then execute when required.  Things may or may not work out for you, but you can only do so much.  Don’t let fear hold you back - keep moving forwards :-)

Keeping entertained on the mountain and how to keep powered up?

OK, I am a popish music fan, and proud of it!  Robert Palmer, Shania Twain, Taylor Swift, Pink, Katy Perry, The Corrs and most music from the 80s’ and 90s’.  This will really test the boundaries of good taste :-) ...but seriously, I have great taste in music, even if I do say so myself :-D.  No ‘fan boy’ mentality here, just like popish music.  This will help with dealing with boredom.

I have to say that mountaineering is a surprisingly boring affair.  There is a lot of time to fill-in and the scenery doesn't change too much or that quickly.  You cannot take too many electronic devices because you are always hampered by the lack of power supply.  Solar power panel sheets and batteries are your best friend.  You have to always make sure your critical devices are charged/powered (ie. Sat phone, HAM radio, Head torch/light, Camera) and then what you have left will be for entertainment (mobile phone, GPS watch).  We live in a modern age and the reality is that we all need to move with the times.  It is tough enough being away from the internet for even a day!...but luckily there will be internet at Everest Base Camp (BC).  I am saved :-).

I use a Power Traveller Power Monkey Extreme solar charger and a large 24W solar panel flexible sheet to hopefully charge up my devices when I am out there.  When you are dealing with solar charging it is always good to have something between the device and the panel as voltage fluctuations can cause damage to the device.  The Power Monkey has a battery that provides separation voltage protection to my devices (I never plug my devices directly into a solar panel).

All this electronics adds unnecessary weight but life is no fun without it.  Yes, you can be a ‘hermit’ and do nothing for 2mths on the trail to find your ‘inner peace’, but I am not that kind of person.  I need to be entertained.  It may be good to buy a book (no power required), maybe a lightweight text book, to learn something new during these 2mths...what should I learn?  I am already a certified massage therapist, maybe I should finish off the remediation massage component, but too many heavy books to carry :-( .  A first world problem indeed.

Did you know that high altitude damages brain cells!

My buddy Jason told me that this was a reality but I had always wanted to wait for the evidence...now it is here (or at least since I’ve read it).  Jason’s view was that mountaineering people he had met were a ‘little slow’ as they got older, but my view was that was because they were old!

Brain damage is a reality of high altitude mountaineering (just Google ‘Altitude kills brain’ and check out the results).  To be honest, this isn’t rocket science.  When you hammer for brain with starvation of O2 that there would be ramifications.  At least the evidence is here and it would be good if the sample size of the studies could be increased (pre-post expedition).

My experience in Aconcagua (my first real mountain) when I experimented with Diamox was evidence that altitude sickness is real.  At Camp 3, I decided to stop taking Diamox to see how my body would react...huge mistake!  I suffered the craziest headache known to man.  My head was going to explode.  Lucky we were commencing our decent already.  I did suffer some memory recollection issues for a few weeks/a month afterwards.  What did I learn?

i)         i) That I was never ever going to rely on Diamox again!  There is too much reliance on a drug and if something should go wrong then you are up the creek without a paddle.

ii)        ii) Acclimatise well and slowly.

What is still unknown is the rate of ascent to acclimatise well.  Some are conservative (1000m/day) others less conservative, but the studies tentatively show that it is not just about the acclimatisation, but also the altitude that you subject yourself to.

The question is then why would I put myself through this still knowing the risks?  Well, because I don’t believe that life is about the quantity, but the quality.  I never thought that I would live beyond 40 years, as my teenage dreams was to live life continually without regret.  I sadly have not done this and became a book-worm that was only focussed on his career, with many, many regrets along the way.  It took a few mid life crisis to open my eyes as to all the wonderful places and people in the world, and how my life could be better by meeting all the characters that form ‘the life of Gil’. 

Life is only exciting if you take risks.  On your death bed the last thing you would wish is that you worked harder, or, that you should have more assets accumulated!  It will be about all the things that meant something, and how you have progressed on your bucket list.  I heard this quote recently -There are two times in life, Now and Too Late.  How will you choose to live your life?

Also, I can afford to lose some brain cells....because I am already too smart...smart alec that is :-P .

Climb safe.

What has my fitness program been focussed on, and why?

I have always admired those individuals that can push themselves crazily in whatever physical endeavours they seek.  Some of the fittest people are top level triathletes...they are crazy fit.  They don't carry much mass but have exceptional aerobic capacity and are very well-rounded in a range of physical disciplines at a top level, not just good at a single sport.  Not only do they have efficient aerobic capability but they can handle pain and have good power/weight ratio.  These attributes are important for mountaineering.  This is why I have focussed my training on increasing my aerobic capacity and power/weight. 

I know that I need to put on mass as I always lose a lot of muscle on the mountain.  Surprisingly I have learnt that any fat that I cart up the mountain I tend to bring back down L.  I have tried to train my body to be more efficient in trying to burn fat by training in the correct HR zones.  Probably close to 7yrs ago my max HR was hitting a tad over 200bpm but now it is at 180bpm.  This has probably been a result of less intensive exercise over the years...I cannot accept that it is because I am getting older...I’ll try to hold onto my youth for as long as I can.

I have mixed my training to include things that I actually enjoy doing.  If you don't enjoy going to the gym for instance then try to substitute it with similar activities outside of the gym.  For example, I hate cycling in the gym using the stationary bikes, but I do enjoy pushing myself on a ride whether it be on the MTB or Roadie through the hills and streets around my city.  It gets me out-and-about and really allows me to focus on deep and faster breathing, great for targeting aerobic capacity and breathing rhythm on the mountain.  The problem with cycling is that it does not mimic the mountaineering requirements (upper body work) and the load carrying component.

I know that I have to do some weights (inevitable reality) to work on the upper body for dealing with the rope work on the mountains.  Shoulders get a heavy repeated workout and I hate it so much!  It is only good when you finish the work when you really earn the pain.

It is also important to do some boot packing with a medium load to mimic the loads that you carry as you move up the various higher camps.  I try to limit this to 20kgs as my target body weight is only around 68-70kg (with no food in the stomach).  I always have to be careful as it can hurt my knees.

I do not swim...simply because I am terrible at it.  Hard to believe that an Australian cannot swim well.  I can probably only swim 200m (backstroke) before I am a gone.  I just don't float very well.  I have never had a need to swim greater than 200m so I have never pushed it beyond that –I had to do that to get my scuba certification.  That said, I am not going to be swimming up a mountain, although it would provide a good shoulder workout.

Running... I tend to do this at the end of my training program.  I suffer from shin splints and after a hard run I cannot do much else (need a decent recovery).  Running is a great exercise but I find that any sustained running program causes me to lose a lot of weight, something that I struggle to put on in the first place.  I find that I become skinnier and that is why I don't do it very often.  I prefer cycling because I find that my butt/legs get bigger and denser, ideal for boot packing, and I can build excess muscle that I won't hopefully lose too quickly. 

The important thing for me is to focus on aerobic capacity, legs and upper body.  I try to do what I enjoy and limit the things that I am hopeless at...but still have to do the mandatory goal oriented things.  The more you enjoy your training the more you will stick to it.  When people generally try to get fit or go on a diet, the question they have to ask themselves is...can I keep it up and make it part of my everyday life?  Ignore the quick gain marketing junk and diets, just find something that you can truly commit to, and go enjoy yourself :-) .

I still feel underdone, but that is always the case.  I am always a glass half empty type of person.  There are some things that I cannot influence (how I physiologically adapt to extreme altitude) but I’ll give myself the best chance through training.

Surviving an expedition -tolerating others (and them tolerating you)

**My observations**

I was thinking the other day about my past experiences in group guided expeditions with strangers.  There are always a significant amount of variation between the group members from background, motivation, age, experience, skills, fitness and gender (though mostly male).  So much of this fills a melting pot for potential aggravation.  So how do people get along?

There is only one common goal and that is to safely summit and return.

How the cooperation works:

1) Meet and greet and journey to base camp (BC) -This is where everyone finds out about everyone else.  The 'common language' is generally English.  I'm lucky for this as I cannot speak any other languages beyond a basic guide book approach to foreign languages.  As humans we generally have preconceived ideas of people from other nationalities and we may modify our own behaviour (through prejudice) to accommodate, and some of these prejudices can be totally incorrect.  It is here in this initial meet and greet that either closer relationships are made or not.  Some of these relationships will develop to strong friendships, maybe short term friendships and others are just passing acquaintances.  We have to understand that just because a person is added into your 'Facebook' account does not necessarily mean you are best friends for life.  You are in an 'intense' short term environment after all.

Some members are perceived as 'experienced' and know-it-alls, whilst others are happy to go with the flow, and then we have those that observe everything and chime in when required (I fall into this category).  My belief has always been to observe the dynamics, and try to adjust my own interactions as required.

2) Looking out for each other -There is safety in numbers and I find that people do make an effort to check up on each other.  This is the camaraderie that you hear so much about surrounding mountaineers.  But it is also important to remember that many people are on the mountain are there to follow their lifelong dreams and are not there to babysit you to the summit.  Others will lend a hand in an emergency but they will be pissed-off if you put yourself in a dangerous position where they have to save your butt, and risk giving up their lifelong goal.  Other climbers are not your free Search and Rescue (SAR) backup team.  At high altitude it is difficult enough to cart your own body weight let alone try to save someone in your group.

Make peace with death, finish your will and testament and predefine your climbing boundaries before you leave your country.

3) Climbing to high camps -Where you have developed stronger friendships you tend to help each other more so than with those that you do not have such a strong relationship.  That's not to say you don't help others in need, you definitely help everybody out within reason, but the 'group dynamics' changes as everyone struggles to breath and become more tired.  From around 7000m up those that have been super strong (acclimated well at lower altitude) tend to equalise with everyone else in the group.  The group dynamics become more individually focussed as you become more aware of how close you are to getting to your goal.

4) Summit night -Very individually focussed.  This is the business end of all that work.  No messing around and it is everyone for themselves.  All that money, training, focus and stress comes down to this moment.  It is 'break or make' time.  Here your climbing partner/sherpa has to work closely with you.  It is always nicer to climb with a friend or a group of friends but sometimes some are stronger than others and splits may occur.

5) Back in town -Depending how everything went it can either be a great way to celebrate or immediately part ways, as everyone is keen to get home.  It is good to cement some friendships with people that you get along with.

When things go wrong (conflicting personalities) I find it funny how it is sometimes dealt with.  Much like little school children fighting parties separate and then try to build alliances for their cause/case/position.  It is funny to see how they try to illicit your support.  You can see it a mile away.  I'm neither here nor there as I am only on the mountain for one reason, to try to summit.  I don't need unnecessary distractions.

There are many on the mountain with egos the size of the mountain.  I am surprised!  Many think they are 'all that', which can rub others the wrong way.  I say...do your own thing without driving others crazy.  Remember your ultimate goal and try to have some fun along the journey.  Let those 'egos' do their own thing -as long as you meet your own goals then you are set.


What I think works (for me anyway):
i) Be tolerant of others;
ii) Find some personal time away from the group;
iii) Arguments and tensions will occur when so many different cultures and backgrounds are in close proximity.  Learn how to diffuse.
iv) Expect someone to take-the-piss-out-of-you and likewise, you should except what you dish out :-) I fall into this one all the time!  :-)  >;)  If you are from the UK then you are automatically fair game!

Intense situations require a unique attitude to survive with each other.  Humour goes a long way to managing situations.

If all else fails, then bring out the expedition gloves!

My rant for the day.

I went to my local 'Enlighten' festival.  A nice way to enjoy some rest after work and training.  Check out the pictures and video under Trips/Expeditions.

Looking forward to a massive long weekend of training.  The hardest training known to mankind...GHCGHWFFCD Extravaganza 2.0 (Gil's House Cleaning, Gardening, House Washing, Fence Fixing and Car Detailing).  Now that's a mouthful :-)

If you ever want to get fit, lose weight rapidly or just be super awesome then you need to sign up to my free classes...I'll make sure to leave you a dedicated activity to focus on.  Fun to be had by all.  Classes fill up fast so get to it.

Wow, it is really shocking when you make the final payment for the expedition.  So much money leaving your bank account in one hit (ouch).  There's no turning back now!  Time to stay fit and healthy...please, please, please no injuries!

• Went for a wicked ride on the new bike on Sunday. A gentle 96km. Great way to bed it down. Loving the ride. More riding to come smile emoticon

  • It took forever waiting for the parts to build this warrantied Cervelo frame...but worth the wait.
    
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Aerobic training has been going crazy.  I am so physically tired riding the MTB 45km/day whilst I continue to build my roadie bike.  MTBs are just so slow.

With only 1.5mths before I fly to Kathmandu I still have a lot of physical work to do.  Since coming back from Cho Oyu in early Oct 2014, I have been able to recover most of my lost muscle mass (from 59kg to now 68kg)...probably 1kg of fat on the gut :-(  but it is hard not to enjoy tasty food :-P

I can't wait for the last bit of training:
1) crazy weight training program; and
2) 20km/day running to keep the aerobic fitness up, and get the body moving.

AND

Healthy eating...urgh.  As one of my buddies keep telling me, when it tastes good then it must be unhealthy.  Time for some really boring healthy food now.

Congratulations to my Argentinian friend Alejandro Verzini for making it to the summit of Aconcagua.

Epic cycling ride after work!  It rained so hard and heavy it felt like I was in the shower at home.  I couldn't see with the sunglasses on, nor see with it off.  Water just kept flowing into the eyes.  I had to stop 4 times to give the eyes a break.  The bike paths were flooded with water all the way home.  Seriously epic.  If it is going to be like this tomorrow then I'm wearing my swimming goggles :-)