Sunday 28 June 2015
Sunday 14 June 2015
Sunday 31 May 2015
I stand by the reviews I do on products
I reviewed the TNF Himalayan Down Parka and Pant not too long ago. Sadly I lost them near C1 at Everest due to not being able to recover the gear. I thus purchased the replacements. I preferred the Windstopper parka version over the newer Pertex version.
The jacket is slightly different to the previous lost red parka in that the inside lining is not TNF logoed. The size Small feels a tad larger...but this is most likely psychological. The black colour was not my first choice but it was the cheapest option. Red goes faster :-). Does this black coloured one mean I go slower?...but black is 'trimming'.
For the pant comparison there is no real difference that I could find besides the red coloured zipper. I thought that the bib felt a little tighter but that could be me putting on weight...that's why a trimming black parka may do the trick ;-)
The jacket is slightly different to the previous lost red parka in that the inside lining is not TNF logoed. The size Small feels a tad larger...but this is most likely psychological. The black colour was not my first choice but it was the cheapest option. Red goes faster :-). Does this black coloured one mean I go slower?...but black is 'trimming'.
For the pant comparison there is no real difference that I could find besides the red coloured zipper. I thought that the bib felt a little tighter but that could be me putting on weight...that's why a trimming black parka may do the trick ;-)
Mistakes I made on the Everest + Lhotse cancelled expedition
Oh' the shame of it! I finally admit to making mistakes. Hard to believe :-).
Well, I might as well get straight into it...the WORST mistake I made was to put my trust in someone else. My climbing principle has always been to trust one's own judgement and capabilities, because you can never put your faith in another climber. If you cannot be self-sufficient, then what do you do when a disaster strikes and the support that you relied upon disappears?
Instances of my bad judgement that should not have been made are listed below:
Case 1: At the commencement of the avalanche that hit Everest Base Camp (EBC) (refer to my diary log on sequence of events), I ran from my stable expedition tent to the larger dining tent (25-30m from my tent). I did this because I heard somebody shout 'run' when I saw the avalanche approach me. Stupid, stupid, stupid. Fear got the better of me and I should have remained focussed and ran towards the biggest boulder that I could find, or anchor myself to something solid and hope that I did not get (i) blown away, (ii) buried or (iii) shredded by ice and rock.
My best option, given the unknown composition of the avalanche that hit us, was to actually run TOWARDS the avalanche direction as within around 10m or so there were a few large boulders/rocks that could have provided shelter from i and iii.
Running to the dining tent was the dumbest thing I could have done as the dining tent would have acted like a large sail for the avalanche to catch. Lucky we were not hit by the 'meaty' bit of the avalanche.
Case 2: Not carrying my prusiks and roller pulleys for self/pulley rescue. You may not think there would be a need for it going through the Khumbu Icefall, as it is all fixed lines, but should something go wrong, then you would end up requiring the assistance of others.
For example, I was only one day out from going through the icefall when the avalanche hit. Dawa had just returned from C1 that morning. Fixed lines and ladders would have been damaged if I was in the icefall during the earthquake. With prusiks and pulleys one can have a chance to use the damaged fixed lines (cut and set new anchors) to possibly climb back down/up...compared with less/minimal/no chance without the basic lightweight rescue gear.
I've learnt my lesson and will carry it myself next time.
Case 3: This was not a situation relating to danger, but relating to my judgement when I did not trust my own feelings. There were two trail deviations where I followed my guide off-the-beaten-track.
Well, I might as well get straight into it...the WORST mistake I made was to put my trust in someone else. My climbing principle has always been to trust one's own judgement and capabilities, because you can never put your faith in another climber. If you cannot be self-sufficient, then what do you do when a disaster strikes and the support that you relied upon disappears?
Instances of my bad judgement that should not have been made are listed below:
Case 1: At the commencement of the avalanche that hit Everest Base Camp (EBC) (refer to my diary log on sequence of events), I ran from my stable expedition tent to the larger dining tent (25-30m from my tent). I did this because I heard somebody shout 'run' when I saw the avalanche approach me. Stupid, stupid, stupid. Fear got the better of me and I should have remained focussed and ran towards the biggest boulder that I could find, or anchor myself to something solid and hope that I did not get (i) blown away, (ii) buried or (iii) shredded by ice and rock.
My best option, given the unknown composition of the avalanche that hit us, was to actually run TOWARDS the avalanche direction as within around 10m or so there were a few large boulders/rocks that could have provided shelter from i and iii.
Running to the dining tent was the dumbest thing I could have done as the dining tent would have acted like a large sail for the avalanche to catch. Lucky we were not hit by the 'meaty' bit of the avalanche.
Case 2: Not carrying my prusiks and roller pulleys for self/pulley rescue. You may not think there would be a need for it going through the Khumbu Icefall, as it is all fixed lines, but should something go wrong, then you would end up requiring the assistance of others.
I've learnt my lesson and will carry it myself next time.
Case 3: This was not a situation relating to danger, but relating to my judgement when I did not trust my own feelings. There were two trail deviations where I followed my guide off-the-beaten-track.
- One scenario was during an acclimitisation hike where we got into an area that was not ideal- bad-angled weak soft snow, ill prepared footwear for the area (got wet) and not a clear path direction.
- The second scenario was on our return from EBC to Lukla...we deviated from the normal trekking trail (shortcut...which it wasn't) and had to go across the middle of a relatively fresh big landslide area in a side forrest. Not a great choice given the instability of the soil in the landslide (like walking in powder snow with little base underneath and sliding downhill on each step) and the risk of more stuff coming down. Staying on the normal trail would have been safer.
Learn from my mistakes. Think before you act and trust your own feelings.
Saturday 30 May 2015
Mountain electronic devices and keeping them powered up
One of the first things you notice as you get further away from civilisation (Kathmandu) is that the cost of charging devices becomes more expensive. In Lukla recharging electronic devices is generally free but as soon as you hit Phakding, you pay around USD$3/hr. Past that it goes to USD$5/hr. Once at BC there should be a generator to charge your devices provided by your logistics company (covered within your costs), which usually run from late afternoon onwards. Not the most environmentally friendly approach as it basically consumes fuel to operate. This is why I look at a better alternative.
The devices I took with me (and what I should have left behind in Kathmandu)
This then raises the question of what is the best way to recharge your devices. For my Everest+Lhotse (EL) expedition I took:
1) MacBook Air (MBA)*;
2) Smartphone (Sony Xperia Z Ultra);
3) SLR camera (Sony A7R+5 batteries);
4) Spare Nikon waterproof compact camera (AW100 +4 batteries);
5) Satellite phone (Isatphone);
6) Rechargeable headlamp (Black Diamond ReVolt); and
7) Rechargeable HAM radio
(from what I can remember).
That is a lot of stuff to take to Base Camp (BC)!
*In hindsight, I should have not taken the MBA to BC as it is not good to take it to that altitude. The lower pressure air at that altitude significantly impacts a laptop's ability to cool, and it will heat up heaps...so make sure it does not get too warm/hot! Take care with condensation as well. If you do want to take a laptop then buy something cheap that you do not mind destroying. I will not take my MBA on trails again.
Prioritise order of charging devices
Now, one has to consider how to recharge if you do not want to be paying by the hour all the way to BC. Naturally the priority for charging is to charge the safety equipment and frequently used items that saves on batteries first (5, 7 and 6), followed by the things of less priority (3, 2 then 1). Spare camera was not used and thus did not need to be charged (topped up if required).
How much daylight and maximising it
There is around 7-8hrs of good daylight for charging in Spring but if you are on the Everest trek route, then you need to be able to strap a panel of some sort onto your bag to take advantage of the available light. I was using the Powertraveller Powermonkey Extreme 12V for this purpose.
When you stop trekking and arrive at a guest/tea house, or when in BC, this is when you can take out the big guns such as a foldable/rollable panel. Hook it either to a battery storage or directly into the device. I was using an Tactical 24W flexible panel with a car 12V socket, which I had purchased at a sale at 50% off...I should have bought two of them! You ideally want to have a regulated power source charging your devices as you can damage your device by directly connecting to an unregulated solar panel. Use at your own risk.
What I learnt (or knew beforehand)
Different devices require different power inputs. One thing I was aware of, was that this setup alone would not be able to charge the MBA. That MBA (and most Apple laptops) will require substantially more power, and consistent power. I charged my MBA via the generator source at BC and used it infrequently along the trail to BC.
You need to look at what power your devices requires before you head out, and make sure you have all the right connectors. Try to limit the number of different connectors and try to label them if you can. It makes searching for the right combination a much easier exercise instead of rummaging through it. Keep cables tidy and separate (tie them individually up with rubberbands).
All my devices were able to be charged perfectly with this setup. That said, I did encounter a failure with the Powermonkey Extreme. For some unknown reason the cable from the solar panel to the battery/controller failed to make contact properly. I was not sure whether it was a battery controller issue, whether it was the non-USB small connector jack plug, or whether it was the battery/controller input jack socket that failed...I suspect that it was the input jack socket of the battery/controller.
This was a pain in the butt. Lucky for my Tactical that gave me alternate power (and the BC generator).
The good thing is that the Australian Powertraveller distributor (Sea to Summit) covered it with a new replacement under warranty. That is the type of service I would have expected from a good company like Sea to Summit. That said, I may have been unlucky (as you know I am VERY UNLUCKY) with getting the problem in the first place, but it does shake my confidence in the product. The device saw hardly any use at all before failure. Powertraveller would sell thousands of these devices internationally so...pure bad luck on my part? My confidence has been shaken and thus I will sell my replacement Powermonkey Extreme and I will get a chance to try something else :-). A gadget freak like me always likes to try new things.
Having a battery pack makes like easier when you head to higher amps. You can still charge your safety devices. I also take spare camera batteries to higher camps, but to know that I have a lightweight battery storage at C1 or C2 is comforting (in a C3-C4 8,000m type mountain).
Where to next?
1) I will be keeping my Tactical panel as it is a gun when you need power! Even when there is some cloud in the sky it is still able to capture the sun's energy.
2) I have been looking at the Voltaic Systems and Goal Zero options. I am inclined to 'future-proof' by buying a more powerful system. I can ensure that if I did take a cheap laptop to my next BC then I can still charge it without any issue, also accommodating any future power hungry devices.
i) I am leaning towards the more expensive Goal Zero (GZ) Sherpa 100 kit with inverter as it has stronger connectors and it can daisy-chain easily with the Tactical panel. All I do is buy the GZ 8mm to 12V plug and I connect the Tactical to the GZ Nomad 20 panel, which in turn connects with the Sherpa 100. This gives me solar panel power of 45W when I am stationary, and 20W when I attach it to a backpack when moving. I can even fold the Nomad 20 down in size by one segment (lose 30% generation capacity or so) if it is too awkward to attach to different sized packs.
ii) Also, the choice of a GZ inverter provides flexibility with accommodating Apple laptops...as Apple has a habit of changing their proprietary connectors. In the future, I don't need to go to eBay and buy another AUD$40 12V to MagSafe 2 adapter, or whatever new connector is released, when I can just use the power plug. Only disadvantage with an inverter is that they are around 20% inefficient...but I can overcome this my the high power solar panel setup. This would only apply to items being used on the laptop (MBA) whereas everything else would obtain efficient DC power from the other Sherpa 100 output ports.
If (when :)) I do buy it, I'll do a thorough review from the trail. Give it a good testing.
The devices I took with me (and what I should have left behind in Kathmandu)
This then raises the question of what is the best way to recharge your devices. For my Everest+Lhotse (EL) expedition I took:
1) MacBook Air (MBA)*;
2) Smartphone (Sony Xperia Z Ultra);
3) SLR camera (Sony A7R+5 batteries);
4) Spare Nikon waterproof compact camera (AW100 +4 batteries);
5) Satellite phone (Isatphone);
6) Rechargeable headlamp (Black Diamond ReVolt); and
7) Rechargeable HAM radio
(from what I can remember).
That is a lot of stuff to take to Base Camp (BC)!
*In hindsight, I should have not taken the MBA to BC as it is not good to take it to that altitude. The lower pressure air at that altitude significantly impacts a laptop's ability to cool, and it will heat up heaps...so make sure it does not get too warm/hot! Take care with condensation as well. If you do want to take a laptop then buy something cheap that you do not mind destroying. I will not take my MBA on trails again.
Prioritise order of charging devices
Now, one has to consider how to recharge if you do not want to be paying by the hour all the way to BC. Naturally the priority for charging is to charge the safety equipment and frequently used items that saves on batteries first (5, 7 and 6), followed by the things of less priority (3, 2 then 1). Spare camera was not used and thus did not need to be charged (topped up if required).
There is around 7-8hrs of good daylight for charging in Spring but if you are on the Everest trek route, then you need to be able to strap a panel of some sort onto your bag to take advantage of the available light. I was using the Powertraveller Powermonkey Extreme 12V for this purpose.
When you stop trekking and arrive at a guest/tea house, or when in BC, this is when you can take out the big guns such as a foldable/rollable panel. Hook it either to a battery storage or directly into the device. I was using an Tactical 24W flexible panel with a car 12V socket, which I had purchased at a sale at 50% off...I should have bought two of them! You ideally want to have a regulated power source charging your devices as you can damage your device by directly connecting to an unregulated solar panel. Use at your own risk.
What I learnt (or knew beforehand)
Different devices require different power inputs. One thing I was aware of, was that this setup alone would not be able to charge the MBA. That MBA (and most Apple laptops) will require substantially more power, and consistent power. I charged my MBA via the generator source at BC and used it infrequently along the trail to BC.
You need to look at what power your devices requires before you head out, and make sure you have all the right connectors. Try to limit the number of different connectors and try to label them if you can. It makes searching for the right combination a much easier exercise instead of rummaging through it. Keep cables tidy and separate (tie them individually up with rubberbands).
All my devices were able to be charged perfectly with this setup. That said, I did encounter a failure with the Powermonkey Extreme. For some unknown reason the cable from the solar panel to the battery/controller failed to make contact properly. I was not sure whether it was a battery controller issue, whether it was the non-USB small connector jack plug, or whether it was the battery/controller input jack socket that failed...I suspect that it was the input jack socket of the battery/controller.
This was a pain in the butt. Lucky for my Tactical that gave me alternate power (and the BC generator).
The good thing is that the Australian Powertraveller distributor (Sea to Summit) covered it with a new replacement under warranty. That is the type of service I would have expected from a good company like Sea to Summit. That said, I may have been unlucky (as you know I am VERY UNLUCKY) with getting the problem in the first place, but it does shake my confidence in the product. The device saw hardly any use at all before failure. Powertraveller would sell thousands of these devices internationally so...pure bad luck on my part? My confidence has been shaken and thus I will sell my replacement Powermonkey Extreme and I will get a chance to try something else :-). A gadget freak like me always likes to try new things.
Having a battery pack makes like easier when you head to higher amps. You can still charge your safety devices. I also take spare camera batteries to higher camps, but to know that I have a lightweight battery storage at C1 or C2 is comforting (in a C3-C4 8,000m type mountain).
Where to next?
1) I will be keeping my Tactical panel as it is a gun when you need power! Even when there is some cloud in the sky it is still able to capture the sun's energy.
2) I have been looking at the Voltaic Systems and Goal Zero options. I am inclined to 'future-proof' by buying a more powerful system. I can ensure that if I did take a cheap laptop to my next BC then I can still charge it without any issue, also accommodating any future power hungry devices.
i) I am leaning towards the more expensive Goal Zero (GZ) Sherpa 100 kit with inverter as it has stronger connectors and it can daisy-chain easily with the Tactical panel. All I do is buy the GZ 8mm to 12V plug and I connect the Tactical to the GZ Nomad 20 panel, which in turn connects with the Sherpa 100. This gives me solar panel power of 45W when I am stationary, and 20W when I attach it to a backpack when moving. I can even fold the Nomad 20 down in size by one segment (lose 30% generation capacity or so) if it is too awkward to attach to different sized packs.
ii) Also, the choice of a GZ inverter provides flexibility with accommodating Apple laptops...as Apple has a habit of changing their proprietary connectors. In the future, I don't need to go to eBay and buy another AUD$40 12V to MagSafe 2 adapter, or whatever new connector is released, when I can just use the power plug. Only disadvantage with an inverter is that they are around 20% inefficient...but I can overcome this my the high power solar panel setup. This would only apply to items being used on the laptop (MBA) whereas everything else would obtain efficient DC power from the other Sherpa 100 output ports.
If (when :)) I do buy it, I'll do a thorough review from the trail. Give it a good testing.
Friday 20 March 2015
The things that worry me on the way to the mountain, and on the mountain.
Concern 1
The dreaded diarrhoea! This is my number one concern. Having been unlucky enough to be caught out with a severe instance (of 30 days straight –suspect Giardia) I am worried about getting a bug or repeated bugs. The ‘big D’ can take all your energy away and cause cramping and water loss. It effectively cripples your expedition. This time I have come better prepared. After talking to my Dr we agreed on a standard approach to treatment of diarrhoea. It is important to talk to your doctor about your particular case and what medication will work for you. I am not providing any medical advice whatsoever, I am only going with my own approach (Norfloxacin, Tinidazole and Azithromycin). I will use Imodium if all else fails. If I cannot stop the diarrhoea at its cause, then I will have to try to slow the digestive system down until I can get the climbing out of the way. I have heard of some mountaineers being on Imodium for many days straight...urgh. Doesn’t sound too comfortable at all. But you need to do what you need to do.
Concern 2
Exhaustion –This comes on very fast. I was surprised that one minute you can be pacing nicely and then all of a sudden your body just stops. ‘Hitting the wall’ is a nightmare as you stand there not having any energy left to even walk. This happened to me as a result of the above, and it took 20mins just to power down some sugars to get the energy to walk 20m to my tent. The problem was exacerbated by not eating more frequently throughout the day. I should be snacking at least every hour (carbs or sugary drink). So much energy is expended at altitude that consumption needs to be increased significantly.
Concern 3
Diet at high camps is all about being able to stomach whatever you have. I shall be food shopping with my Sherpa for high camp food. I remember being provided with freeze dried healthy food at higher camps, but neither my tent buddy nor myself could stomach it. The healthy ‘gruel’ was very bland and tasted like cardboard. My approach is to decide on what I can stomach and then buy TASTY food before leaving Kathmandu, not necessarily health food. At high altitude you tend to lose some of your ‘taste buds’ and many foods taste bland. If you cannot enjoy your food then you will not eat it, thus no energy to generate heat or move. Taste is everything! For the healthy freaks out there...get over it. Throw down some food that has high sugar, high fat, high salt etc. Yum yum. Time to buy a tiny bottle of soy sauce to give taste to the infinite amount of eggs that will be eaten on the mountain (yes, you get sick of eggs). If all else fails then befriend an Italian...they always carry nice food.
Concern 4
Frostbite - Not much you can do here except to eat lots, drink lots, keep all skin covered and layer for warmth. Toes are a big concern as you need your boots snug enough that your feet do not slip/move yet not so tight that circulation is restricted. Your boots are always in contact with the snow so warmth is critical. There is no coming back once your toes (and to a lesser extent your fingers) go very cold...it is not easy to remove your footwear to deal with issues. To try to mitigate toe frostbite I am using a vapour barrier layer (VBL) to keep sweat from soaking my socks and adding an extra insulation layer over my mountaineering boots –adding a 40Below neoprene overboot over my La Sportiva Olympus Mons boots. This hopefully will form a warmer combination without relying on electronic food heater insoles (more batteries and chance of failure) or chemical insoles (hit or miss success rate given low O2 in boot). I’ll let you know how it goes.
There are always things that people can be concerned about, whether it be in mountaineering, personal adventures or life in general. The best tactic to dealing with them is to be sensible and think it out logically, plan for the event/mitigation and then execute when required. Things may or may not work out for you, but you can only do so much. Don’t let fear hold you back - keep moving forwards :-)
Monday 16 March 2015
Keeping entertained on the mountain and how to keep powered up?
OK, I am a popish music fan, and proud of it! Robert Palmer, Shania Twain, Taylor Swift, Pink, Katy Perry, The Corrs and most music from the 80s’ and 90s’. This will really test the boundaries of good taste :-) ...but seriously, I have great taste in music, even if I do say so myself :-D. No ‘fan boy’ mentality here, just like popish music. This will help with dealing with boredom.
I have to say that mountaineering is a surprisingly boring affair. There is a lot of time to fill-in and the scenery doesn't change too much or that quickly. You cannot take too many electronic devices because you are always hampered by the lack of power supply. Solar power panel sheets and batteries are your best friend. You have to always make sure your critical devices are charged/powered (ie. Sat phone, HAM radio, Head torch/light, Camera) and then what you have left will be for entertainment (mobile phone, GPS watch). We live in a modern age and the reality is that we all need to move with the times. It is tough enough being away from the internet for even a day!...but luckily there will be internet at Everest Base Camp (BC). I am saved :-).
I use a Power Traveller Power Monkey Extreme solar charger and a large 24W solar panel flexible sheet to hopefully charge up my devices when I am out there. When you are dealing with solar charging it is always good to have something between the device and the panel as voltage fluctuations can cause damage to the device. The Power Monkey has a battery that provides separation voltage protection to my devices (I never plug my devices directly into a solar panel).
All this electronics adds unnecessary weight but life is no fun without it. Yes, you can be a ‘hermit’ and do nothing for 2mths on the trail to find your ‘inner peace’, but I am not that kind of person. I need to be entertained. It may be good to buy a book (no power required), maybe a lightweight text book, to learn something new during these 2mths...what should I learn? I am already a certified massage therapist, maybe I should finish off the remediation massage component, but too many heavy books to carry :-( . A first world problem indeed.
Thursday 12 March 2015
Did you know that high altitude damages brain cells!
My buddy Jason told me that this was a reality but I had always wanted to wait for the evidence...now it is here (or at least since I’ve read it). Jason’s view was that mountaineering people he had met were a ‘little slow’ as they got older, but my view was that was because they were old!
Brain damage is a reality of high altitude mountaineering (just Google ‘Altitude kills brain’ and check out the results). To be honest, this isn’t rocket science. When you hammer for brain with starvation of O2 that there would be ramifications. At least the evidence is here and it would be good if the sample size of the studies could be increased (pre-post expedition).
My experience in Aconcagua (my first real mountain) when I experimented with Diamox was evidence that altitude sickness is real. At Camp 3, I decided to stop taking Diamox to see how my body would react...huge mistake! I suffered the craziest headache known to man. My head was going to explode. Lucky we were commencing our decent already. I did suffer some memory recollection issues for a few weeks/a month afterwards. What did I learn?
i) i) That I was never ever going to rely on Diamox again! There is too much reliance on a drug and if something should go wrong then you are up the creek without a paddle.
ii) ii) Acclimatise well and slowly.
What is still unknown is the rate of ascent to acclimatise well. Some are conservative (1000m/day) others less conservative, but the studies tentatively show that it is not just about the acclimatisation, but also the altitude that you subject yourself to.
The question is then why would I put myself through this still knowing the risks? Well, because I don’t believe that life is about the quantity, but the quality. I never thought that I would live beyond 40 years, as my teenage dreams was to live life continually without regret. I sadly have not done this and became a book-worm that was only focussed on his career, with many, many regrets along the way. It took a few mid life crisis to open my eyes as to all the wonderful places and people in the world, and how my life could be better by meeting all the characters that form ‘the life of Gil’.
Life is only exciting if you take risks. On your death bed the last thing you would wish is that you worked harder, or, that you should have more assets accumulated! It will be about all the things that meant something, and how you have progressed on your bucket list. I heard this quote recently -There are two times in life, Now and Too Late. How will you choose to live your life?
Also, I can afford to lose some brain cells....because I am already too smart...smart alec that is :-P .
Climb safe.
What has my fitness program been focussed on, and why?
I have always admired those individuals that can push themselves crazily in whatever physical endeavours they seek. Some of the fittest people are top level triathletes...they are crazy fit. They don't carry much mass but have exceptional aerobic capacity and are very well-rounded in a range of physical disciplines at a top level, not just good at a single sport. Not only do they have efficient aerobic capability but they can handle pain and have good power/weight ratio. These attributes are important for mountaineering. This is why I have focussed my training on increasing my aerobic capacity and power/weight.
I know that I need to put on mass as I always lose a lot of muscle on the mountain. Surprisingly I have learnt that any fat that I cart up the mountain I tend to bring back down L. I have tried to train my body to be more efficient in trying to burn fat by training in the correct HR zones. Probably close to 7yrs ago my max HR was hitting a tad over 200bpm but now it is at 180bpm. This has probably been a result of less intensive exercise over the years...I cannot accept that it is because I am getting older...I’ll try to hold onto my youth for as long as I can.
I have mixed my training to include things that I actually enjoy doing. If you don't enjoy going to the gym for instance then try to substitute it with similar activities outside of the gym. For example, I hate cycling in the gym using the stationary bikes, but I do enjoy pushing myself on a ride whether it be on the MTB or Roadie through the hills and streets around my city. It gets me out-and-about and really allows me to focus on deep and faster breathing, great for targeting aerobic capacity and breathing rhythm on the mountain. The problem with cycling is that it does not mimic the mountaineering requirements (upper body work) and the load carrying component.
I know that I have to do some weights (inevitable reality) to work on the upper body for dealing with the rope work on the mountains. Shoulders get a heavy repeated workout and I hate it so much! It is only good when you finish the work when you really earn the pain.
It is also important to do some boot packing with a medium load to mimic the loads that you carry as you move up the various higher camps. I try to limit this to 20kgs as my target body weight is only around 68-70kg (with no food in the stomach). I always have to be careful as it can hurt my knees.
I do not swim...simply because I am terrible at it. Hard to believe that an Australian cannot swim well. I can probably only swim 200m (backstroke) before I am a gone. I just don't float very well. I have never had a need to swim greater than 200m so I have never pushed it beyond that –I had to do that to get my scuba certification. That said, I am not going to be swimming up a mountain, although it would provide a good shoulder workout.
Running... I tend to do this at the end of my training program. I suffer from shin splints and after a hard run I cannot do much else (need a decent recovery). Running is a great exercise but I find that any sustained running program causes me to lose a lot of weight, something that I struggle to put on in the first place. I find that I become skinnier and that is why I don't do it very often. I prefer cycling because I find that my butt/legs get bigger and denser, ideal for boot packing, and I can build excess muscle that I won't hopefully lose too quickly.
The important thing for me is to focus on aerobic capacity, legs and upper body. I try to do what I enjoy and limit the things that I am hopeless at...but still have to do the mandatory goal oriented things. The more you enjoy your training the more you will stick to it. When people generally try to get fit or go on a diet, the question they have to ask themselves is...can I keep it up and make it part of my everyday life? Ignore the quick gain marketing junk and diets, just find something that you can truly commit to, and go enjoy yourself :-) .
I still feel underdone, but that is always the case. I am always a glass half empty type of person. There are some things that I cannot influence (how I physiologically adapt to extreme altitude) but I’ll give myself the best chance through training.
Sunday 8 March 2015
Surviving an expedition -tolerating others (and them tolerating you)
**My observations**
I was thinking the other day about my past experiences in group guided expeditions with strangers. There are always a significant amount of variation between the group members from background, motivation, age, experience, skills, fitness and gender (though mostly male). So much of this fills a melting pot for potential aggravation. So how do people get along?
There is only one common goal and that is to safely summit and return.
How the cooperation works:
1) Meet and greet and journey to base camp (BC) -This is where everyone finds out about everyone else. The 'common language' is generally English. I'm lucky for this as I cannot speak any other languages beyond a basic guide book approach to foreign languages. As humans we generally have preconceived ideas of people from other nationalities and we may modify our own behaviour (through prejudice) to accommodate, and some of these prejudices can be totally incorrect. It is here in this initial meet and greet that either closer relationships are made or not. Some of these relationships will develop to strong friendships, maybe short term friendships and others are just passing acquaintances. We have to understand that just because a person is added into your 'Facebook' account does not necessarily mean you are best friends for life. You are in an 'intense' short term environment after all.
Some members are perceived as 'experienced' and know-it-alls, whilst others are happy to go with the flow, and then we have those that observe everything and chime in when required (I fall into this category). My belief has always been to observe the dynamics, and try to adjust my own interactions as required.
2) Looking out for each other -There is safety in numbers and I find that people do make an effort to check up on each other. This is the camaraderie that you hear so much about surrounding mountaineers. But it is also important to remember that many people are on the mountain are there to follow their lifelong dreams and are not there to babysit you to the summit. Others will lend a hand in an emergency but they will be pissed-off if you put yourself in a dangerous position where they have to save your butt, and risk giving up their lifelong goal. Other climbers are not your free Search and Rescue (SAR) backup team. At high altitude it is difficult enough to cart your own body weight let alone try to save someone in your group.
Make peace with death, finish your will and testament and predefine your climbing boundaries before you leave your country.
3) Climbing to high camps -Where you have developed stronger friendships you tend to help each other more so than with those that you do not have such a strong relationship. That's not to say you don't help others in need, you definitely help everybody out within reason, but the 'group dynamics' changes as everyone struggles to breath and become more tired. From around 7000m up those that have been super strong (acclimated well at lower altitude) tend to equalise with everyone else in the group. The group dynamics become more individually focussed as you become more aware of how close you are to getting to your goal.
4) Summit night -Very individually focussed. This is the business end of all that work. No messing around and it is everyone for themselves. All that money, training, focus and stress comes down to this moment. It is 'break or make' time. Here your climbing partner/sherpa has to work closely with you. It is always nicer to climb with a friend or a group of friends but sometimes some are stronger than others and splits may occur.
5) Back in town -Depending how everything went it can either be a great way to celebrate or immediately part ways, as everyone is keen to get home. It is good to cement some friendships with people that you get along with.
When things go wrong (conflicting personalities) I find it funny how it is sometimes dealt with. Much like little school children fighting parties separate and then try to build alliances for their cause/case/position. It is funny to see how they try to illicit your support. You can see it a mile away. I'm neither here nor there as I am only on the mountain for one reason, to try to summit. I don't need unnecessary distractions.
There are many on the mountain with egos the size of the mountain. I am surprised! Many think they are 'all that', which can rub others the wrong way. I say...do your own thing without driving others crazy. Remember your ultimate goal and try to have some fun along the journey. Let those 'egos' do their own thing -as long as you meet your own goals then you are set.
What I think works (for me anyway):
i) Be tolerant of others;
ii) Find some personal time away from the group;
iii) Arguments and tensions will occur when so many different cultures and backgrounds are in close proximity. Learn how to diffuse.
iv) Expect someone to take-the-piss-out-of-you and likewise, you should except what you dish out :-) I fall into this one all the time! :-) >;) If you are from the UK then you are automatically fair game!
Intense situations require a unique attitude to survive with each other. Humour goes a long way to managing situations.
If all else fails, then bring out the expedition gloves!
My rant for the day.
I was thinking the other day about my past experiences in group guided expeditions with strangers. There are always a significant amount of variation between the group members from background, motivation, age, experience, skills, fitness and gender (though mostly male). So much of this fills a melting pot for potential aggravation. So how do people get along?
There is only one common goal and that is to safely summit and return.
How the cooperation works:
1) Meet and greet and journey to base camp (BC) -This is where everyone finds out about everyone else. The 'common language' is generally English. I'm lucky for this as I cannot speak any other languages beyond a basic guide book approach to foreign languages. As humans we generally have preconceived ideas of people from other nationalities and we may modify our own behaviour (through prejudice) to accommodate, and some of these prejudices can be totally incorrect. It is here in this initial meet and greet that either closer relationships are made or not. Some of these relationships will develop to strong friendships, maybe short term friendships and others are just passing acquaintances. We have to understand that just because a person is added into your 'Facebook' account does not necessarily mean you are best friends for life. You are in an 'intense' short term environment after all.
Some members are perceived as 'experienced' and know-it-alls, whilst others are happy to go with the flow, and then we have those that observe everything and chime in when required (I fall into this category). My belief has always been to observe the dynamics, and try to adjust my own interactions as required.
2) Looking out for each other -There is safety in numbers and I find that people do make an effort to check up on each other. This is the camaraderie that you hear so much about surrounding mountaineers. But it is also important to remember that many people are on the mountain are there to follow their lifelong dreams and are not there to babysit you to the summit. Others will lend a hand in an emergency but they will be pissed-off if you put yourself in a dangerous position where they have to save your butt, and risk giving up their lifelong goal. Other climbers are not your free Search and Rescue (SAR) backup team. At high altitude it is difficult enough to cart your own body weight let alone try to save someone in your group.
Make peace with death, finish your will and testament and predefine your climbing boundaries before you leave your country.
3) Climbing to high camps -Where you have developed stronger friendships you tend to help each other more so than with those that you do not have such a strong relationship. That's not to say you don't help others in need, you definitely help everybody out within reason, but the 'group dynamics' changes as everyone struggles to breath and become more tired. From around 7000m up those that have been super strong (acclimated well at lower altitude) tend to equalise with everyone else in the group. The group dynamics become more individually focussed as you become more aware of how close you are to getting to your goal.
4) Summit night -Very individually focussed. This is the business end of all that work. No messing around and it is everyone for themselves. All that money, training, focus and stress comes down to this moment. It is 'break or make' time. Here your climbing partner/sherpa has to work closely with you. It is always nicer to climb with a friend or a group of friends but sometimes some are stronger than others and splits may occur.
5) Back in town -Depending how everything went it can either be a great way to celebrate or immediately part ways, as everyone is keen to get home. It is good to cement some friendships with people that you get along with.
When things go wrong (conflicting personalities) I find it funny how it is sometimes dealt with. Much like little school children fighting parties separate and then try to build alliances for their cause/case/position. It is funny to see how they try to illicit your support. You can see it a mile away. I'm neither here nor there as I am only on the mountain for one reason, to try to summit. I don't need unnecessary distractions.
There are many on the mountain with egos the size of the mountain. I am surprised! Many think they are 'all that', which can rub others the wrong way. I say...do your own thing without driving others crazy. Remember your ultimate goal and try to have some fun along the journey. Let those 'egos' do their own thing -as long as you meet your own goals then you are set.
What I think works (for me anyway):
i) Be tolerant of others;
ii) Find some personal time away from the group;
iii) Arguments and tensions will occur when so many different cultures and backgrounds are in close proximity. Learn how to diffuse.
iv) Expect someone to take-the-piss-out-of-you and likewise, you should except what you dish out :-) I fall into this one all the time! :-) >;) If you are from the UK then you are automatically fair game!
Intense situations require a unique attitude to survive with each other. Humour goes a long way to managing situations.
If all else fails, then bring out the expedition gloves!
My rant for the day.
Saturday 7 March 2015
Thursday 5 March 2015
Looking forward to a massive long weekend of training. The hardest training known to mankind...GHCGHWFFCD Extravaganza 2.0 (Gil's House Cleaning, Gardening, House Washing, Fence Fixing and Car Detailing). Now that's a mouthful :-)
If you ever want to get fit, lose weight rapidly or just be super awesome then you need to sign up to my free classes...I'll make sure to leave you a dedicated activity to focus on. Fun to be had by all. Classes fill up fast so get to it.
If you ever want to get fit, lose weight rapidly or just be super awesome then you need to sign up to my free classes...I'll make sure to leave you a dedicated activity to focus on. Fun to be had by all. Classes fill up fast so get to it.
Thursday 26 February 2015
Monday 23 February 2015
Friday 13 February 2015
Aerobic training has been going crazy. I am so physically tired riding the MTB 45km/day whilst I continue to build my roadie bike. MTBs are just so slow.
With only 1.5mths before I fly to Kathmandu I still have a lot of physical work to do. Since coming back from Cho Oyu in early Oct 2014, I have been able to recover most of my lost muscle mass (from 59kg to now 68kg)...probably 1kg of fat on the gut :-( but it is hard not to enjoy tasty food :-P
I can't wait for the last bit of training:
1) crazy weight training program; and
2) 20km/day running to keep the aerobic fitness up, and get the body moving.
AND
Healthy eating...urgh. As one of my buddies keep telling me, when it tastes good then it must be unhealthy. Time for some really boring healthy food now.
With only 1.5mths before I fly to Kathmandu I still have a lot of physical work to do. Since coming back from Cho Oyu in early Oct 2014, I have been able to recover most of my lost muscle mass (from 59kg to now 68kg)...probably 1kg of fat on the gut :-( but it is hard not to enjoy tasty food :-P
I can't wait for the last bit of training:
1) crazy weight training program; and
2) 20km/day running to keep the aerobic fitness up, and get the body moving.
AND
Healthy eating...urgh. As one of my buddies keep telling me, when it tastes good then it must be unhealthy. Time for some really boring healthy food now.
Thursday 29 January 2015
Wednesday 21 January 2015
Epic cycling ride after work! It rained so hard and heavy it felt like I was in the shower at home. I couldn't see with the sunglasses on, nor see with it off. Water just kept flowing into the eyes. I had to stop 4 times to give the eyes a break. The bike paths were flooded with water all the way home. Seriously epic. If it is going to be like this tomorrow then I'm wearing my swimming goggles :-)
Tuesday 13 January 2015
Review -2008 Cervelo Soloist Carbon (SLC) 48cm
Check out my review on the right. My sweet bike is no more.
Sunday 11 January 2015
Review -La Sportiva Olympus Mons Boots size EU40.5
Booties that may save your toes. Check out my gear review on the right.
Monday 29 December 2014
Review -Bergans Wiglo LT4 tent
Not many reviews on this unique tent on the web. Check out my gear review on the right.
Sunday 28 December 2014
Amazing training option...house cleaning and car detailing
Seriously, I spent a good 5-6hrs cleaning the house, serviced my road bike and doing the car. I still need to wash the house windows, do the garden, clay and polish the car.
1) Scrubbing the bathroom tiles gives a great shoulder and arm workout. This will be good for the fixed lines in wet/snow conditions.
2) Vacuuming with strong suction is like using the ascender up fixed lines.
3) Leather conditioning car seats and hand washing the car got the whole body moving in different positions. I'm actually sore today (lower back).
4) Dusting ceilings with a vacuum mimics reaching up high with resistance/weight.
5) Bike servicing provided good dexterity work.
5) Bike servicing provided good dexterity work.
For lazy people that do no exercise, then this is the ultimate workout...and your house and car will also be clean.
If I keep doing this then I should be fit come March 2015 :-)
Ok...now to supplement it with a 200-250km day ride. I'll need to find a nice cool day to do this.
Saturday 27 December 2014
Review -Sony A7R camera with Sony Sonnar T* FE 35mm f/2.8 ZA lens
If you have struggled in deciding which camera to take for your next once-in-a-lifetime expedition then look no further. Gear review on the right of the screen.
Review -The North Face (TNF) Himalayan Parka (Windstopper version) (size Small)
Gear reviews on the right of the screen.
Wednesday 3 December 2014
Expedition -Lhotse and Everest 2015
I am now confirmed for Lhotse and Everest 2015. My work leave has been approved. Everest is the primary focus. Training has been great so far...lower body and aerobic fitness excellent...now
Review -The North Face (TNF) Base Camp Duffle Bag size XL
Go check out my experience -Gear reviews on the right of the screen. I purchased the duffle with my own money and I provide a true view/opinion.
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